Thingiverse
Anycubic Photon/Photon S leveler (REMIX)
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 3 months ago
I remix the Anycubic photon leveler by kron01 as I was having difficulty when inserting the nut. I also reduce the size and remove the central part for the spring. Using M3 12mm for the 4 lock screws. The rest of the screws are from the original part. You can use lock washers on the side, I never have any so what you see on the photo there are no washers but still it is functional and able to lock the bracket in place securely.
When leveling, just make all the lock screws not pushing too hard that the bracket can still wiggle and can be moved up and down. Let the build plate go down 0.1mm at a time after homing. You can even align the bracket this way as it is being pushed up when the build plate touches the flat surface below. Make sure the build plate is flat on the bottom surface and you can hold it there and start locking the four screws. We're not done yet, we're only making sure the build plate is flat with the bottom surface either with paper method or with Flint Read method. When you lightly unlock the main knob on the top, you will notice you can still wiggle the build plate in rotational motion, that is ok as long as we are sure it is already in parallel with the bottom surface. Now move down by 0.1mm at a time until you can no longer make any movement on the build plate with the flat surface then lock. Move up 0.1mm three times to have that 0.3mm level then set it as Z=0.
I observed there is no up or down movement on the build plate that can happen even with the main knob lightly unlocked but there is a slight rotational play that can be done. When the build plate is pushed down just enough to stop this rotational play, that is the best level to have then we can define our Z=0 0.3mm above that level as the Flint Read method have suggested with the vat with FEP in placed or we simply set Z=0 when we can no longer push the paper but can pull it with resistance as suggested with the paper method without the vat and only paper on top of the LCD surface.
Printed with 6 perimeters and 6 top and bottom solid layers at 20% infill. This is to ensure we have strong solid shells either vertical or horizontal.
Update:
Dec. 19, 2019 - added version 2 of the bracket, much more compact, less material and working well. This time a resin printed version is made for testing and it looks great and strong. Resin version was printed while using the updated smaller version. The opening on the side for the screws is made narrower for better grip.
Dec. 24, 2019 - the resin printed bracket is a lot better than the filament printed part. Better grip on the screws, sturdy. I experienced a problem with PLA material that overtime screws turned causing leveling issue. The resin printed bracket remained steady for several prints and movement aside from having a much cleaner look.
When leveling, just make all the lock screws not pushing too hard that the bracket can still wiggle and can be moved up and down. Let the build plate go down 0.1mm at a time after homing. You can even align the bracket this way as it is being pushed up when the build plate touches the flat surface below. Make sure the build plate is flat on the bottom surface and you can hold it there and start locking the four screws. We're not done yet, we're only making sure the build plate is flat with the bottom surface either with paper method or with Flint Read method. When you lightly unlock the main knob on the top, you will notice you can still wiggle the build plate in rotational motion, that is ok as long as we are sure it is already in parallel with the bottom surface. Now move down by 0.1mm at a time until you can no longer make any movement on the build plate with the flat surface then lock. Move up 0.1mm three times to have that 0.3mm level then set it as Z=0.
I observed there is no up or down movement on the build plate that can happen even with the main knob lightly unlocked but there is a slight rotational play that can be done. When the build plate is pushed down just enough to stop this rotational play, that is the best level to have then we can define our Z=0 0.3mm above that level as the Flint Read method have suggested with the vat with FEP in placed or we simply set Z=0 when we can no longer push the paper but can pull it with resistance as suggested with the paper method without the vat and only paper on top of the LCD surface.
Printed with 6 perimeters and 6 top and bottom solid layers at 20% infill. This is to ensure we have strong solid shells either vertical or horizontal.
Update:
Dec. 19, 2019 - added version 2 of the bracket, much more compact, less material and working well. This time a resin printed version is made for testing and it looks great and strong. Resin version was printed while using the updated smaller version. The opening on the side for the screws is made narrower for better grip.
Dec. 24, 2019 - the resin printed bracket is a lot better than the filament printed part. Better grip on the screws, sturdy. I experienced a problem with PLA material that overtime screws turned causing leveling issue. The resin printed bracket remained steady for several prints and movement aside from having a much cleaner look.
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