Another LACK enclosure but kept simple (100mm extra height) by threeaxis

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Update 13/01/2018: I now use the FilaRollSlider spool holder mounted on top of the top table and a hole through the top with a filament guide through it, because there was too much tension on the filament with it through the side, even with PTFE tube.
Update 14/10/2017: Added better camera base (CameraBase.stl) suited to 90 degree bracket. Attach bracket with M3 hex head, attach camera, re-fix bracket.
My version of an enclosure based on Ikea LACK tables.
Acrylic Sheets
Note that the gaps between the legs are not sized as you would expect from the table dimensions, build a table and measure first. Also plastic sheet suppliers give a tolerance of +/-1mm so I suggest subtracting at least 1mm from your measurements.
I foolishly ordered my plastic sheets based on the table dimensions and had to trim ~5mm off. Also I then decide to create 100mm extensions to allow space to add the Prusa Multi Material Upgrade in the future.
I got 2 extra 100mm pieces for the front/right and cut 2 pieces of MDF (10mm) for the left/back which are fixed. The left/back big sheets are fixed and the front/right are removable with magnets.
I ordered 4mm clear acrylic, at first I thought 4mm was overkill but when printing ABS it is helpful so that the sheets don't sag.
Cutting Acrylic
I discovered that you can cut acrylic (my findings with 4mm) with a jigsaw using the highest teeth count blade (towards 80) and the fastest speed. I used a workmate and clamped a metal spirit level across the cut (placed so that the blade goes through the desired line) and carefully guide the jigsaw along the metal level. This gave a good edge other than on my first sheet where I did not concentrate and it wandered a little but hardly noticeable :-).
Extensions
I designed extensions similar to another on Thingiverse but I wanted to be able to modify it so I designed my own. They also allow quick removal of the top of the enclosure. I have included the stl files and here is the onshape link.
Fittings
I wanted simplicity without printing loads of parts so I went with 90 degree brackets and magnets to hold the acrylic sides on. I ordered from ebay:
50pcs, 90 degree brackets (approx 19mm wide) {~£4}
CORNER BRACE 19mm ZINC PLATED ANGLE BRACKET FIXING SUPPORT REPAIR 10 TO 1,000.

50pcs, counter sunk round neodymium magnets 15mm x 3mm x 3mm {~£8}
N52 Grade Neodymium Magnets Super Strong Countersunk Rare Earth NdFeB All Sizes.

Sufficient M3 12mm countersunk hex bolts/washers/nyloc nuts
The handles were Ikea single coat hooks, find/print whatever
The LED strip is 5050 RGBW which has alternate red/green/blue then white LEDs {~£18}
I mounted the controller in the corner and cut a notch out of the acrylic so that it was flush with the acrylic. This also allows quick disconnection for top removal.

Notes
I created some jigs to help mark the holes for the extensions and for the brackets.
stl files included - make sure you understand what you are trying to do with these - they are sized for the brackets I used so check against your brackets!
Onshape design in case your brackets are different.
I used the 50mm jig in general
I made the 100mm jig to allow extra brackets so that I could have the smaller 100mm acrylic strips at the top or bottom (right side only)

There are 3 holes in the leg jigs, the bigger jig has letters:
fw - for the fixed wood (10mm wood + bracket)
ma - acrylic with magnet (4mm acrylic + magnet + bracket)
fa - fixed acrylic (4mm acrylic + bracket) - I did not use these holes in the end

Note that the bigger jig also has holes in the shape of the bracket I used, so if your bracket suits that the jig is correct.

I added a blob of hot glue before using small self tapping screws to mount the brackets to the holes I had made using the jigs and a bradawl (sharp pointy tool for pushing small hole to start a screw into wood).
I held the sheets up against the fitted brackets to mark the holes with a fine permanent pen.
Tip: isopropanol alcohol removes permanent marker.

I mounted the raspberry pi on two more brackets with a cable tie (two holes through the MDF). This holds the pi so that the LCD cable sits between the MDF and top acrylic. This also means that the top lifts off cleanly.
I remixed a camera mount which was supposed to fit onto the printer bed frame but was too big so I mounted it on another bracket.
Display Mount
I wanted to be able to take the printer out of the enclosure to work on it so a requirement was to be able to mount the display on the printer and on the enclosure so I remixed the original Prusa brackets (stl files included) to have a flat end with holes to mount a pair of magnets. This allows it to fit onto the washers mounted on the enclosure or onto the bars of the printer frame. I wrapped the cables with some spiral wrap and cable tied this to the printer frame and LCD bracket for strain relief.
Other
I used from thingiverse:
spool holder
print the screws/nuts finer (e.g. 0.1), I had to use an M8 tap and die to clean up the threads, I printed the rest at 0.35.

Stacker
Attaches middle table to bottom.

Adjustable feet
Gives extra height to fit large box under bottom table and allows levelling

Filament feeder
Drilled out to fit PTFE tube(s) - Update 13/01/2018 I stopped using this and went with the hole through the top approach to avoid tension on the filament.

FilaRollSlider spool holder
Great adjustable spool holder.

Filament guide
Nice filament guide (take care drilling the hole with a hole saw because when the top goes through there is nothing to line up the hole through the next (underside) panel, I would recommend drilling a smaller (say 4mm) than the holesaw guide-drill and drill vertically through both surfaces before using the hole saw.


Conclusion
My findings are that the enclosure keeps the heat/smell (ABS) in well but does not need to be airtight, a fan/filter may add a little benefit but I have not bothered. The benefit of not heating the whole room is good and will be great in the summer.