3DTouch Sensor adapter for e3d clamp by Draxan

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

If You want to use this e3d Mount You can use that adapter for Your 3DTouch sensor - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1695758
And there is a front part - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172476
!!! Hole its not square, check it please before forcing sensor in it !!!
!!! its 18mm version !!!
If anyone need the sensor like this You can order GENUINE 3DTouch sensor here : http://ali.pub/ldh23
Or GENUINE BLTouch if You prefer is here: http://ali.pub/1f5veq
Or cheapest one here : http://ali.pub/1h7ghd
Later I try to remix that e3d mount for proper 3dtouch mounting point.
PS. my parts in action ;) - https://youtu.be/cJ1K7rZsdtY
PS2 . sendor in action :) - https://youtu.be/HdLyox9N8CE
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!!! ALL THANKS GOING TOO - http://www.thingiverse.com/OderWat/about !!!
!!! OderWat IS THE ONE THAT MAKE IS POSSIBLE !!!
It uses the "LED pin" which is an unused pin on the A8 (using the stock 5 button 2004 LCD). That is the third wire counted from below (where the red marker is on the cable). I simply spliced the cable and cut that wire. This will be the servo signal (yellow).
On the A6, you may use wire no. 10 (the one on the other side to the red marked wire) and pin 17 in firmware the but you will lose the buzzer. I think one could use wire no. 7 and FW pin 29 but I could not yet verify that because I don't have an A6 display available.
The +5V (red) and GND (brown/black) are available at the z-end-stop connector as is the signal itself (white).
You can simply connect the black and brown wire of the sensor to the GND from the z-end-stop socket. This leaves you with 4 instead of 5 wires from the sensor to the board. On the first of the second two images you can see how I used some patch cables and a wire clamp to draft the connection at the board. In the second of the two images you can see the wiring at the sensor.
After everything worked well I have chosen an old usb mouse cable. Those have exactly 4 wires. I used green for the sensor, red for +5v, black for GND and yellow for the servo signal (originating from the LCD cable). I crimped a fitting connector for the z-end-stop socket and a single connector for the connection to the spliced LCD cable. I also soldered the other end of those 4 wires directly to the PCB inside of the sensor. Soldering is not needed and can be a pain. Beware not to destroy your sensor if you do it. You can see the result in the last three images.
Setting up SkyNet3D / Marlin (the firmware) is pretty straightforward. Besides the entries for the auto bed levelling you need to make the following entries:
define BLTOUCH
define SERVO0_PIN 27
define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -20
define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -15
define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false
I also used:
define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 5
define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5
define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200
define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200
After mounting and uploading the new firmware you can test you sensor:
M280 P0 S10 ; pushes pin down
M280 P0 S90 ; drags pin up
M280 P0 S120 ; does selftest (pin up/down continuously)
M280 P0 S160 ; reset alarm
M280 P0 S60 ; switch triggering test mode
; move pin at the sensor up or down manually
M119 ; reports state of the endstop
; pin up (LED on) z_min should read TRIGGERED
; pin down (LED off) z_min should read open
If your sensor does not selftest but blinks directly or after some few alternating motions you need to adjust the screw in the top of the sensor. One of the allen wrenches which are part of the printer does fit right in. Lose the screw until the light went off, then fasten the screw until it is lit again. I needed some time to find the sweet sport. Using selftest and reset alarm until it worked well.
Finally you can try a G28 command. If everything is OK it will probe twice in the middle of the bed. The tip will go down and up again as soon it touches the surface of the bed. If not you need to check cables and settings.
To adjust the z offset I use the following easy and pretty failsaife procedure:
; preheat for working temperatures
(M502 ; optionally reset to firmware settings)
M851 Z0 ; reset any z-offset
G28 ; home all
G1 X110 Y110 ; move nozzle in center
; now move your nozzle manually onto the bed such that it (strongly) grips paper.
G92 Z0 ; tell the printer that this is Z = 0
G30 X110 Y110 ; move the sensor over the center and let it trigger
; note what z position G30 reports, that, negated, is your z offset
M851 Z-1.23 ; register that z offset (here 1.23 as example)
M500 ; store those values into the EEPROM
You may want to do some G30 X110 Y110 commands to validate how well your sensor works. It should report the same values +/- 0.0x.
You can also enable Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST in the firmware and use M48 L10 P8 V4 to let it test repeatability at the same point with a lot of fake movement in between probes.
There are occasions where the sensor after power on gives an error with the G28 command for no obvious reason. I found that the sequence:
M280 P0 S160 ; Reset 3D-Touch
G4 P500
M280 P0 S10 ; Pin out
G4 P500
M280 P0 S90 ; Pin back
G4 P500
Before the G28 command will reset the sensor in a way that it will alway (tm) work.
UPDATE: I added an alternative design "Distant" for the excellent "Mistral 2" cooling fanduct. This needs slightly changed firmware settings as follows:
define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -26
define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200