3D PRINTED DIY ELECTRIC CAR, The Jellybean3D by GonzaloChomon

Last crawled date: 3 years, 4 months ago

INTRODUCTION
The Jellybean3D is a fully DIY Open Source 3D printed electric vehicle.
Designed to be made with standard FDM hobby printers and easy to find/work PLA, and/or maybe PETG plastic, some small parts printed with PA (Nylon), and some off the shelf components.
In order to create the big parts like the body and door, they have been strategically cut on small easy printable pieces that will be glued/welded afterwards.
More info here: https://youtu.be/umWhtFFmUe0
More information coming soon, please be patient it is a “solo project” for now.
I HAVE UPLOADED A 1/10 SCALE VERSION, if you want to print a small one for yourself. The printing files can be downloaded from here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/47678 or here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4669754
I started this project here because I will be releasing the Open Source in a few days (maybe weeks…) and needed the link for the documentation.
And because in some forums people wanted to see more and see how the parts are, and if they can print them.
So I just upload here a couple samples pieces of the body, anyone can print them with the printing suggestions and profiles and check if they like the idea.Please post your prints and please give some feedback.
This is an experimental project that aims to explore the limits of hobby 3D printing.
This project does not aim to reproduce a standard vehicle construction. Many things can go wrong, but we will enjoy and learn through the process. :)
Any suggestion and help is welcome. Feel free to comment.
This is a non commercial project borne with my own time and money and with the help of some collaborators, people and companies that decided to help me in this endeavour that alone may be impossible to do. THANK YOU to all of them.

Please, consider contributing to these projects: https://paypal.me/GonzaloChomon Thank you.
Contributors so far:
-Ricardo Paramo Pelaez (ricardoparamo.com) for his tireless unconditional help on design and advice.
-Attribution to Peter Vullings for inspiration on the shape of the Jellybean3D by his vehicle design shape, the Velopetta from the company velectric.co.nz
-Paramatters.com for letting me use their topology optimisation software “Cognicad” to design some parts.
-Laurent AUBRY-DUBOURG
-José Gros Aymerich
Link to further information, construction videos and more, can be found at this YouTube playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJfG3HktqdD5y3SG_rDiSx5rBmsbD77oQ
Link to PrusaPrinters project page: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/46729
All documentation of this project on any format is licensed under the Creative Commons-Attribution-ShareAlike (CC-by-sa 4.0) license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
PRINTING SUGGESTIONS
The parts for this project have to be strong, so most of the suggestions are in order to achieve maximum strength and they differ from what is normally used for aesthetic parts. As well there are some suggestions in order to improve parts printing speed.
-Printer: Minimum build volume 220x220x220mm, with heated bed.
-Nozzle diameter: 0.6mm to 1mm. (I use a 0.8mm)
-Layer height: 45% to 55% of nozzle diameter.
-Line width: 110% to 150% of nozzle diameter. (I use 150% for external perimeters, and 112% for the other lines)
-Infill pattern: Gyroid.
-Printing temperature: As high as the material allows without material degradation.
-Printing speed: Low to medium. (I use 30mm/s for external perimeters, 45mm/s for other perimeters and 65mm/s for infill)
-Use a volcano heating cartridge or similar so maximum volumetric speed can be increased, test before increase. ( I was able to set it up to 20mm^3/s+)
-Use minimum cooling or no cooling at all in order to enhance layer adhesion. (I use auto cooling, it only starts cooling if the layer time is under 20 seconds or at bridges lines)
-Use an enclosure if possible to avoid fast cooling and prevent high internal tensions and warping deformations.
-Set bed temperature to maximum recommended for the material.
-Use some kind of adhesion enhancer in the bed like PVA stick or similar.
-Most parts are printed with no supports, some with supports only on the build plate, and 9 parts with full supports.
-Printing profiles and other notes are detailed in the BOM for every part. 
Both sample parts do not need supports when printing.
PRINTING PROFILES
There are 4 different printing profiles used for the vehicle parts detailed at the BOM, here is 2 different ones you can test:LIGHT: (For parts that don’t need to be specially strong)
-Perimeters: 1
-Top layers: 3
-Bottom layers: 3
-Infill: 9%
NORMAL: (For parts that has some stress)
-Perimeters: 2
-Top layers: 4
-Bottom layers: 3
-Infill: 9%