Thingiverse
3030 CNC 3018 DIY Rude and Crude Remix
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 2 months ago
For those who still have eyes to see, to help those who don't.
This is the 3030 Remix of shivackt's 3018 DIY CNC machine.
You'll need:
2 x 3030 profile @ 390mm for X frame bits
2 x 3030 profile @ 320mm for Y frame bits
2 x 3030 profile @ 210mm for Z frame vertical bits
2/3 x 3030 profile @ 330mm for Z frame in between horizontal bits (I have taken my middle horizontal piece out as 3030 is a good solid frame so you can also get away with only 2 pieces here)
2 x 400mm x 8mm smooth rods for x axis
2 x 400mm x 8mm smooth rods for y axis
3 x 5mm to 8mm solid couplers
3 x 608 bearings for the ends of the leadscrews
3 x 8mm collars for the bearing ends of the leadscrews
2 x 400mm T8 leadscrews and leadnut (x and y axis)
1 x 135mm T8 leadscrew and leadnut. (Z axis)
12 x 3030 inside corner brackets
1 x 300mm x 180mm x 15mm wooden baseboard
8 x M4 x 6mm Socket Head Screws to lock the smooth rods in place.
8 x M3 x 16mm Socket Head Screws to mount x and y motors.
24 x M6 x 10mm Socket Head Screws to mount the plastic bits.
24 x M6 T-Nuts for 30 profile for the screws above.
And huge dose of patience, seriously.
Of course you may want to get all the other nice goodies from shivackt (who I wish to thank for the 2020 version) but that is entirely up to you. The final versions here have been modified after I printed the original parts but they did not fit well due to shrinkage. I've reprinted all the parts successfully at 2.5 - 3% increase in size for ABS.
UPDATE 14/10/2019
Just got hands on a flexi extension piece for the Tork Craft rotary tool:
http://www.torkcraft.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=818_1227_1228&product_id=17747
Added a Arduino CNC Shield V3.0 running grbl 1.1h firmware fromhttps://github.com/gnea/grbl/releases/tag/v1.1h.20190825
Added:
Spindle collar for flexi extension to fit into z-carriage
Clamps for rotary tool on rear of gantry to save space?
UPDATE 7/11/2019
Added a new leadnut block for the y-axis bed as original was flimsy.
Added crank handle and knob with pin and will test. Shoutout to KCobbler for his knob at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1052197
Fixed crank handle and knob.
UPDATE 8/11/2019
Added improved 60x60 corner bracket.
UPDATE 04/02/2020 IMPORTANT
Assembled the x-carriage with LM8UU bearings. Trick to this is to heat up the carriage and slide the x-axis smooth rods into the holes. Then add the bearings from both sides onto the rods. Remember to hold your hand at one end of the rods and turn it to point the rods upwards. Carefully place the lot on a flat surface so that the bearings and the carriage line up and press down on the top bearings until they begin to go in. You shouldn't have too much difficulty in getting the bearings into the holes, but it will become increasingly harder to press down as both sets of bearings slide unto their slots and come to rest. The reason you want the rods installed when you do this is so the little balls inside the bearings don't pop out.
Went through two sets of bearings initially trying the get the bearings into the carriage separately, but you end up screwing up one if not two of the bearings when you put the rods through. In my case, twice it dug out a few balls from the races and the bearings were toast. So I had to change tactic as I don't have a vice to be able to squeeze the bearings in and besides you can't do that with a vice either in my humble opinion. Just be gentle and remember it's plastic.
Had to use the grbl controller to finish off my lazer engraver https://www.thingiverse.com/make:709625 so this thing is on hold until I get a new controller board.
This is the 3030 Remix of shivackt's 3018 DIY CNC machine.
You'll need:
2 x 3030 profile @ 390mm for X frame bits
2 x 3030 profile @ 320mm for Y frame bits
2 x 3030 profile @ 210mm for Z frame vertical bits
2/3 x 3030 profile @ 330mm for Z frame in between horizontal bits (I have taken my middle horizontal piece out as 3030 is a good solid frame so you can also get away with only 2 pieces here)
2 x 400mm x 8mm smooth rods for x axis
2 x 400mm x 8mm smooth rods for y axis
3 x 5mm to 8mm solid couplers
3 x 608 bearings for the ends of the leadscrews
3 x 8mm collars for the bearing ends of the leadscrews
2 x 400mm T8 leadscrews and leadnut (x and y axis)
1 x 135mm T8 leadscrew and leadnut. (Z axis)
12 x 3030 inside corner brackets
1 x 300mm x 180mm x 15mm wooden baseboard
8 x M4 x 6mm Socket Head Screws to lock the smooth rods in place.
8 x M3 x 16mm Socket Head Screws to mount x and y motors.
24 x M6 x 10mm Socket Head Screws to mount the plastic bits.
24 x M6 T-Nuts for 30 profile for the screws above.
And huge dose of patience, seriously.
Of course you may want to get all the other nice goodies from shivackt (who I wish to thank for the 2020 version) but that is entirely up to you. The final versions here have been modified after I printed the original parts but they did not fit well due to shrinkage. I've reprinted all the parts successfully at 2.5 - 3% increase in size for ABS.
UPDATE 14/10/2019
Just got hands on a flexi extension piece for the Tork Craft rotary tool:
http://www.torkcraft.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=818_1227_1228&product_id=17747
Added a Arduino CNC Shield V3.0 running grbl 1.1h firmware fromhttps://github.com/gnea/grbl/releases/tag/v1.1h.20190825
Added:
Spindle collar for flexi extension to fit into z-carriage
Clamps for rotary tool on rear of gantry to save space?
UPDATE 7/11/2019
Added a new leadnut block for the y-axis bed as original was flimsy.
Added crank handle and knob with pin and will test. Shoutout to KCobbler for his knob at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1052197
Fixed crank handle and knob.
UPDATE 8/11/2019
Added improved 60x60 corner bracket.
UPDATE 04/02/2020 IMPORTANT
Assembled the x-carriage with LM8UU bearings. Trick to this is to heat up the carriage and slide the x-axis smooth rods into the holes. Then add the bearings from both sides onto the rods. Remember to hold your hand at one end of the rods and turn it to point the rods upwards. Carefully place the lot on a flat surface so that the bearings and the carriage line up and press down on the top bearings until they begin to go in. You shouldn't have too much difficulty in getting the bearings into the holes, but it will become increasingly harder to press down as both sets of bearings slide unto their slots and come to rest. The reason you want the rods installed when you do this is so the little balls inside the bearings don't pop out.
Went through two sets of bearings initially trying the get the bearings into the carriage separately, but you end up screwing up one if not two of the bearings when you put the rods through. In my case, twice it dug out a few balls from the races and the bearings were toast. So I had to change tactic as I don't have a vice to be able to squeeze the bearings in and besides you can't do that with a vice either in my humble opinion. Just be gentle and remember it's plastic.
Had to use the grbl controller to finish off my lazer engraver https://www.thingiverse.com/make:709625 so this thing is on hold until I get a new controller board.
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