1-to-4 HDD Stackable Raspberry NAS with PSU v1 by fcerbell

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

It has serious cooling defects, do not print !
I'll release a new version later
Designer : Blender
Slicer : Slic3r
Printer : Creality 3D CR-10
Material : PLA Optimus 1.75 White (filament-abs.fr)
You should print the v2 instead : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2784565
Compact Stackable Raspberry NAS with PSU and between 1 and 4 hotplug HDD
IMPORTANT
I made it, but I am not fully happy of it because of too much post-printing. I began a v2 with tradoffs on the HDD size and on the power rail.
The lower bullet connector holes are very tight and need heated to insert the terminals.
The bullet connectors are (too) hard to insert/remove from the stack
It does the job, but I'm not really happy with the ease of use/assembly. I'll probably make a v2.
Goal
A small NAS using a Raspberry, with 4 HDD and a power supply, to save energy and space. It does not have to be lightining fast for my home needs (backups, photos/movies/music repository, ...)
Design constraints
I currently use a small standard PC with 2x1TB HDD in RAID as a storage for backups with RSync. This is an overkill. I want to upgrade the usage with OpenMediaVault (http://www.openmediavault.org/) to store
my backups (RSync and/or Rsnapshot,
my movies (for XBMC/Kodi),
my music (for XBMC/Kodi),
a MacBook Air's timemachine backups.
I want to optimize the energy+space vs usage ration with :
Dedicated sized Power Suply Unit
Raspberry Pi 2 (no need for Wifi, Ethernet cable sharing the USB bus is fine)
4x 1TB HDD (SSD would be better, but far too expensive for this project and not justified)
I don't want to power the HDD from the RPi USB sockets, I chose to Double USB to SATA cable adaptor to get power directly from the PSU to the HDD
I don't want to power the RPi from its side USB power socket (bad location, power supposed clean, ... I'll power the RPi from the GPIO pins
I wont use any kind of UPS (in case of power failure, no client will connect) and it would be difficult to design such an UPS for the RPi and 4 spinning disks. I'll work at the software layer to make it robust against unexpected poweroff.
I want to be able to hotplug/unplug HDDs easily, without a tray
I want to be able to mout/unmount the stack to scale up/down using few screws and with backplane power rail connectors
I want to be able to insert/remove the RPi SD card without unmounting anything
The HDD bay needs to be able to receive different 2.5 HDD form factor (L=100mm, W=700mm H=9.5,12.5,17.19mm)
I still hate to remove and clean support material from my printings... The design should be supportless ! ;)
Bill Of Material :
Power cord
micro power switch 250V/3A : https://www.banggood.com/20pcs-250V-3A-Mini-Boat-Rocker-Switch-2-Pin-Plastic-Button-ONOff-SPST-p-1044250.html
Generic Power Supply Unit AC 110-220V To DC 5V 6A 30W : https://www.banggood.com/AC-85-265V-to-DC-5V-6A-30W-Switch-Power-Supply-for-Car-LED-Strip-Lights-p-967013.html
Raspberry Pi 2
Raspberry Pi 2/3 Copper Heat Sink Heat Sink https://www.banggood.com/Raspberry-Pi-23-Copper-Heat-Sink-Heatsink-With-3M-Special-Thermal-Cooling-Paste-p-1045808.html
SD card
4x 1TB HDD : https://www.ldlc.com/fiche/PB00235600.html
4x Double USB to SATA cable adapter : https://www.banggood.com/Double-USB-2_0-Adapter-Cable-715pin-Male-to-Male-for-Laptop-2_5HDD-Hard-Disk-Drive-p-1026866.html
M3 6mm screws (the screws used in computers to secure all the parts together)
10 bullet connector pairs : https://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10x-3_5mm-Gold-Bullet-Banana-Connector-Plug-For-ESC-Battery-Motor-p-51435.html?rmmds=search
Printing
Before printing
You might need :
to check and adjust the size and location of the screw holes for the PSU
to check and adjust the size and location of the screw holes and walls for the SATA-USB PCB adaptors depending on yours
to check and adjust the size of the bullet terminals (both length and width)
Even if you buy the same references from the same supplier, the item can change, sometimes. ;)
Power supply level (at the bottom for the stability):
Printed on CR-10, with PLA in 7 hours and 6 minutes (approx 66g of PLA)
Nozzle 0.4mm
first layer 0.375 mm @ 195°C/75°C, other layers: 0.2 mm @ 190°C/70°C
3 top layers, 3 bottom layers, 3 perimeters
Infill : 20% honeycomb
Skirt suggested, Brim recommended, no support
PSU mounted with 2xM3 screws
Added a mini-power switch
HDD level (between 1 and 4 times):
Printed on CR-10, with PLA in 3 hours and 53 minutes (approx. 51g of PLA)
Nozzle 0.4mm
first layer 0.375 mm @ 195°C/75°C, other layers: 0.2 mm @ 190°C/70°C
3 top layers, 3 bottom layers, 3 perimeters
Infill : 20% honeycomb
Skirt suggested, Brim recommended, no support
RPi level
Printed on CR-10, with PLA in 3 hours and few minutes
Nozzle 0.4mm
first layer 0.375 mm @ 195°C/75°C, other layers: 0.2 mm @ 190°C/70°C
3 top layers, 3 bottom layers, 3 perimeters
Infill : 20% honeycomb
Skirt suggested, Brim recommended, no support
Cover layer
Printed on CR-10, with PLA in 3 hours and 53 minutes (approx. 51g of PLA)
Nozzle 0.4mm
first layer 0.375 mm @ 195°C/75°C, other layers: 0.2 mm @ 190°C/70°C
0 top layers, 0 bottom layers, 5 perimeters
Infill : 20% honeycomb
Skirt suggested, Brim recommended, no support
Assembly
Power Supply
Pass the power cord through the front small hole, connect the negative to the N terminal on the PSU,
Pass the positive (brown or red) through the front switch hole (from inside to outside) and connect it to one of the switch terminals.
Connect the second switch terminal to the L terminal on the PSU (back through the switch hole) from outside to inside.
Solder a blue wire to one of the bullet, and a red wire to the other one.
Pass the blue wire from outside to insinde through the internal power stack hole and push the bullet in the hole (you can force or heat to make it pass, and use hot glue to secure it).
Pass the red wire from outside to insinde through the external power stack hole and push the bullet in the hole (you can force or heat to make it pass, and use hot glue to secure it).
Connect the blue wire to the negative terminal on the PSU and the red wire to the positive one.
Finally, use 2xM3 4mm sscrewws to secure the PSU on the bottom plate.
You can test that you don't have any shortcut with a volt metter.Connect a volt metter (set to more than 6V) to the bullets, the power cord to the main, and switch on the switch. The LED should light up.
Use a screw driver to adjust the voltage somewhere between 5 and 5.2V using the small tuning screw on the PSU, near the LED.
Hint: you can secure the bullet terminals in their holes using a piece of PLA/ABS from the skirt/brim/raft with your soldering/reworking station to lock the bullet in the hole.
HDD levels
Unmount the SATA plug adaptor (clipsed) to extract the PCB
solder a red wire on a male bullet
solder a red wire on a female bullet
solder a blue wire on a male bullet
solder a blue wire on a female bullet
pass the male red wire from outside to inside in the external bottom hole
pass the male blue wire from outside to inside in the internal bottom hole
add the male red wire to the female red bullet by soldering it
add the male blue wire to the female blue bullet by soldering it
push the female bullets in their hole, eventually securing them with hot glue or melted PLA/ABS
solder the red wire in place of the red wire (on one side) on the PCB
solder the blue wire in place of the black (on hte other side) wire on the PCB
secure and insulate as you want (cutting different length, using electric tape, using heat shrink tubes, ...) the red and black original wires
place the PCB on the tray with the SATA connector at the bottom and secure it with 2 M2 2/3/4mm screws
Hint : use your soldering iron tip to heat each of the bullets, one by one, to adjust their position and lock them in the ABS/PLA
Hint : Hotglue under the PCB to secure it more than with the 2 M2 screws only
Hint : Hot glue all around the bullet connectors
Hint : gently pre and post heat the hot glue with hot air (reworking station or air gun
RPI level
solder a red wire on a male bullet
solder a blue wire on a male bullet
pass the male red wire from outside to inside in the external bottom hole
pass the male blue wire from outside to inside in the internal bottom hole
crimp a dupont connector on the red wire
crimp a dupont connector on the blue wire
connect the red wire to the second pin and the blue wire to the third pin of the RPi GPIO (double check the pinout, you can frie your RPi)
Connect the USB plugs and the network.
Possible improvements:
Add status LED (Power)
Add status LED (System starting/started/stopping/stopped blink/loadHeartBeat/blinking/off)
Add status LED (OMV process stopped/starting/started no process=off, process but no http=blink, process and http=on)
Add an high voltage fuse
Add a graceful reboot/shutdown GPIO push button (short/long press)
Redesign the HDD level with a tray