Thingiverse
Wyze Pan Cam tilt mod
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 1 month ago
A modified Wyze Pan Cam housing for use when the Wyze Pan is hanging and you want the tilt range to go lower. Hanging a Wyze Pan from a ceiling often results in half the tilt range being wasted on the ceiling, and a tilt mount won't maintain the tilt for the full pan-range.
The idea here is you gut the insides of the existing Wyze Pan and transplant them into the new housing.
====================
There are two versions of the main body:
1) Speaker in the front, which is the version I've tested with and is shown in the pictures
2) Speaker in the back, which should work, but i have not printed yet.
====================
Assembly:
You can use the screws from the original enclosure.
First attach the upper portion with the camera, motor, and mounting hardware to the lid, and screw in the two mounting screws. Leave the camera ribbon cable connected. Then slide the lid into the main body and feed the motor cable and camera ribbon cable through the bottom. This will be a tight fit, to help keep things in place. There is also a screw hole to prevent the lid from slipping out, and you can reuse one of the back-panel screws for this.
Put the speaker into the speaker notch. Hopefully there will be enough stickiness from the original case to keep it in, but you can add a little dab of general purpose glue or silicon adhesive to keep it in.
Screw the USB PCB onto the "USB mount" printed part, With the ribbon cable connected to the USB port, and plug in the speaker to the USB PCB. Then place that whole USB assembly into the main body from the bottom and line it up with the outer holes, and use two more screws to mount it.
You'll need two extra screws, but we can get those from the original enclosure, as there is a metal plate with two screws, that won't be used in the new enclosure (I have no idea what that's for).
Carefully remove the wifi antenna from the original enclosure (it's basically a sticker with some copper) and stick it in the new enclosure opposite of the USB port, or anywhere that seems to have room.
Your main body should now have the top/camera portion installed, the speaker/USB ports, and antenna installed. Now connect the camera ribbon cable, the USB ribbon cable, the wifi antenna, and tilt motor wires to the bottom pan assembly. You'll have to twist the camera ribbon cable to maintain the correct connector orientation for plugging it in (for the "speaker-front" version).
The bottom panel and pan assembly will snap into the new enclosure like it does for the old one. Don't forget the little black rubber thing that sits over the LED on the PCB. It might be a tight fit. the bottom screw hole should line up fairly good. This might be a really tight fit. There's also a hole for a screw, just to be on the safe side and prevent it form sliding out. You can use the other screw from the original back-panel for this.
NOTE: If you put things back together and the camera doesn't do anything, don't panic. Open it back up and reseat your ribbon cables.
The idea here is you gut the insides of the existing Wyze Pan and transplant them into the new housing.
====================
There are two versions of the main body:
1) Speaker in the front, which is the version I've tested with and is shown in the pictures
2) Speaker in the back, which should work, but i have not printed yet.
====================
Assembly:
You can use the screws from the original enclosure.
First attach the upper portion with the camera, motor, and mounting hardware to the lid, and screw in the two mounting screws. Leave the camera ribbon cable connected. Then slide the lid into the main body and feed the motor cable and camera ribbon cable through the bottom. This will be a tight fit, to help keep things in place. There is also a screw hole to prevent the lid from slipping out, and you can reuse one of the back-panel screws for this.
Put the speaker into the speaker notch. Hopefully there will be enough stickiness from the original case to keep it in, but you can add a little dab of general purpose glue or silicon adhesive to keep it in.
Screw the USB PCB onto the "USB mount" printed part, With the ribbon cable connected to the USB port, and plug in the speaker to the USB PCB. Then place that whole USB assembly into the main body from the bottom and line it up with the outer holes, and use two more screws to mount it.
You'll need two extra screws, but we can get those from the original enclosure, as there is a metal plate with two screws, that won't be used in the new enclosure (I have no idea what that's for).
Carefully remove the wifi antenna from the original enclosure (it's basically a sticker with some copper) and stick it in the new enclosure opposite of the USB port, or anywhere that seems to have room.
Your main body should now have the top/camera portion installed, the speaker/USB ports, and antenna installed. Now connect the camera ribbon cable, the USB ribbon cable, the wifi antenna, and tilt motor wires to the bottom pan assembly. You'll have to twist the camera ribbon cable to maintain the correct connector orientation for plugging it in (for the "speaker-front" version).
The bottom panel and pan assembly will snap into the new enclosure like it does for the old one. Don't forget the little black rubber thing that sits over the LED on the PCB. It might be a tight fit. the bottom screw hole should line up fairly good. This might be a really tight fit. There's also a hole for a screw, just to be on the safe side and prevent it form sliding out. You can use the other screw from the original back-panel for this.
NOTE: If you put things back together and the camera doesn't do anything, don't panic. Open it back up and reseat your ribbon cables.
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