Thingiverse
Wanhao Duplicator i3 120mm PSU Cover by Korzar
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
UPDATE 04/28/2017
I've added a short installation guide at the end of this page (Post-Printing section). Note that this is just a reference as I can't take pictures of the process to make a proper guide anymore (my printer has been thoroughly modded and it can't be called "stock" anymore to serve as a reference).
UPDATE 01/25/2017
For the people who has upgraded from the stock cooling solution (using DiiiCooler, Cobra, Thorped, etc) you can try printing without supports at all for the B versions of the files. You can certainly bridge the IEC connector hole without any problem if your printer is properly calibrated and the part is well cooled. Give it a try if you want to save some material.
For the A versions, I would flip the model so it touches the build plate with the tabs where the fan mounts on. Again, know your machine and its capabilities before any attempt.
UPDATE 06/02/2016
Added a new full set of covers with the offset only on the top. These will be useful for those who don't want to use rubber feet under the PSU or just want to have the inclined plane on top (for any reason). They're based on v6, so they have all the previous corrections included. These are final versions too.
UPDATE 05/31/16
Added new covers with power plug socket on the top.
UPDATE 05/29/16 FINAL VERSION:
Added v5
Corrected fan mounts so M4 screw threads catch the plastic deeper.
UPDATE 05/28/16:
Added v4
People having trouble with supports falling off for the tabs on the inner corners can use this new version. It should use support only for the power connector socket and wiring loom hole. It uses more material but also reinforces corners a lot. Choose infill percentage wisely.
UPDATE 05/27/16:
Fixed power connector mounting holes (they're smaller now, M3x8mm screws or longer should work).
Reinforced fan mounting corners and psu mounting tabs.
Bigger fan mounting holes (should still be threaded when inserting fan screws).
Print orientation: place the psu mounting tabs on the bed.
UPDATE 05/26/16: Added chamfers to tabs for additional strength.
This is an extended back cover for the Wanhao Duplicator i3 PSU (also rebranded as Monoprice Maker Select, Balco 3D Printer, Cocoon Create). This model allows you to use a 120mm fan instead of the noisy tiny internal one. The new fan will be mounted outside of the power supply, but it will be much more silent.
As this part extends up and down to accomodate the bigger sized fan, you will need to put some adhesive rubber feet under the PSU to lift it up a bit. It is about 5mm of extra length in those directions.
UPDATE: By popular request, I uploaded new "Offset" versions that have the inclined plane only on the top of the cover. These ones won't need rubber feet installed under the PSU.
I don't know if other versions of the printer have a different arrangement for the screw holes. This was designed for a v2.1 (v2 should be the same). Check compatibility for v1 and rebranded versions before printing.
I used for reference the models by jamesarm97 and shaiss.
There are 2 versions of these files.
A models
Needs supports for the inner corner tabs where the fan mounts on. Uses less material.
B models
Doesn't need supports for the inner tabs where the fan mounts on. Uses more material. Recommended if you have problems with the supports falling off or unsticking from the build plate.
The stock screws won't work for this part. Use M3x8mm or longer to attach the cover to your PSU case. Screw holes aren't countersunk (just counterbored), so choose screws with a flat top.
Fan holes are 15mm deep in model B. Use self-tapping screws to mount the fan from the outside. M4x40mm screws (if using a 25mm deep fan) work also.
If using model A, you can also thread the screws from the inside and secure the fan with a washer and a nut on the outside. Make sure you don't use model B if you're going that route.
I've added a short installation guide at the end of this page (Post-Printing section). Note that this is just a reference as I can't take pictures of the process to make a proper guide anymore (my printer has been thoroughly modded and it can't be called "stock" anymore to serve as a reference).
UPDATE 01/25/2017
For the people who has upgraded from the stock cooling solution (using DiiiCooler, Cobra, Thorped, etc) you can try printing without supports at all for the B versions of the files. You can certainly bridge the IEC connector hole without any problem if your printer is properly calibrated and the part is well cooled. Give it a try if you want to save some material.
For the A versions, I would flip the model so it touches the build plate with the tabs where the fan mounts on. Again, know your machine and its capabilities before any attempt.
UPDATE 06/02/2016
Added a new full set of covers with the offset only on the top. These will be useful for those who don't want to use rubber feet under the PSU or just want to have the inclined plane on top (for any reason). They're based on v6, so they have all the previous corrections included. These are final versions too.
UPDATE 05/31/16
Added new covers with power plug socket on the top.
UPDATE 05/29/16 FINAL VERSION:
Added v5
Corrected fan mounts so M4 screw threads catch the plastic deeper.
UPDATE 05/28/16:
Added v4
People having trouble with supports falling off for the tabs on the inner corners can use this new version. It should use support only for the power connector socket and wiring loom hole. It uses more material but also reinforces corners a lot. Choose infill percentage wisely.
UPDATE 05/27/16:
Fixed power connector mounting holes (they're smaller now, M3x8mm screws or longer should work).
Reinforced fan mounting corners and psu mounting tabs.
Bigger fan mounting holes (should still be threaded when inserting fan screws).
Print orientation: place the psu mounting tabs on the bed.
UPDATE 05/26/16: Added chamfers to tabs for additional strength.
This is an extended back cover for the Wanhao Duplicator i3 PSU (also rebranded as Monoprice Maker Select, Balco 3D Printer, Cocoon Create). This model allows you to use a 120mm fan instead of the noisy tiny internal one. The new fan will be mounted outside of the power supply, but it will be much more silent.
As this part extends up and down to accomodate the bigger sized fan, you will need to put some adhesive rubber feet under the PSU to lift it up a bit. It is about 5mm of extra length in those directions.
UPDATE: By popular request, I uploaded new "Offset" versions that have the inclined plane only on the top of the cover. These ones won't need rubber feet installed under the PSU.
I don't know if other versions of the printer have a different arrangement for the screw holes. This was designed for a v2.1 (v2 should be the same). Check compatibility for v1 and rebranded versions before printing.
I used for reference the models by jamesarm97 and shaiss.
There are 2 versions of these files.
A models
Needs supports for the inner corner tabs where the fan mounts on. Uses less material.
B models
Doesn't need supports for the inner tabs where the fan mounts on. Uses more material. Recommended if you have problems with the supports falling off or unsticking from the build plate.
The stock screws won't work for this part. Use M3x8mm or longer to attach the cover to your PSU case. Screw holes aren't countersunk (just counterbored), so choose screws with a flat top.
Fan holes are 15mm deep in model B. Use self-tapping screws to mount the fan from the outside. M4x40mm screws (if using a 25mm deep fan) work also.
If using model A, you can also thread the screws from the inside and secure the fan with a washer and a nut on the outside. Make sure you don't use model B if you're going that route.
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