Volvo XC70 Lift Kit and Subframe Spacers (P2 Chassis) by PLaperriere

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

This is for the NON NIVOMAT suspension!
This should lift your P2 Chassis XC70 2-4" depending on the mix of parts you use. The subframe spacers and front tophat spacers fit a P2 XC90 as well. I do not have a way to lift the rear of an XC90 however as I have not been able to design parts for that yet. Here are some examples of expected results:
Top hat spacers only;
Gain 1.75-2" of lift. Mine are 25mm, for example, the Cross Country Performance kit uses 30mm thick spacers so you could modify the height in the Z-Axis in your slicer to potentially get 2.5" of lift from the tophat spacers alone.
Rear spring spacers only and front XC90 V8 front springs;
2'' of lift
Both the tophat spacers and spring spacer/xc90 spring combo;
4-5" of lift from the ground to the top of the wheel arch and approx. 3" more ground clearance. Anything above 2" you will want to do the subframe spacers as well to correct your CV angles. I can confirm with either (or both together) you will be able to fit 225/70/16 tires, I have heard 225/75/16 may fit with trimming of plastics but have not confirmed yet.
Spring Spacers;
The rear spring spacer will fit underneath the bottom of the rear springs. They provide approximately 1.75"-2" (44.5-50.8mm) of lift in the rear. Using V2 which is slightly taller should net more like 2-2.5" (50.8-66mm) of lift. Pair with V8 XC90 ( P2 Chassis, V8 Models started as of 2006+, OEM Part #30648140 ) front springs on the stock XC70 struts in the front to lift the front 2" as well. If you've got old worn-out springs I recommend printing the V2 spacer. Use the original with either new or heavy-duty springs.
Paired with a set of top hat spacers (also included in the files) this kit could lift your car up to 5" over stock, gaining 3" of ground clearance on 225/70/16 tires. We measured 29" from the ground to the top of the fender arches stock and finished at 33-34"
Top Hat Spacers
The front top hat spacer is to go in between the top of the front suspension and the strut mount to lift the suspension. The height of the spacer is 1inch (25.4mm) and gives approx. 2" (50.8mm) of lift, the thickness is 1/2x the lift height, you can use this to scale the height as needed to acquire the desired lift. I do not recommend going past 1.5 inches (38mm) as it may put too much strain on the suspension geometry. The Cross Country Performance spacers are 30mm thick. To install, simply remove the factory studs (I used a small socket underneath the tophat and hammered the stud) and then replace with either a bolt, or find a stud that fits your needs. The factory stud is a M8-1.25 x 25mm stud, for a 1'' (25.4mm) spacer you would need a M8-1.25 x 50mm stud. I have also included a 1:1 scale printable copy that you can use to trace out and cut on whatever material you like. The holes are already oversized to account for differences in parts and make installation easier.
The rear tophat spacer is also included in the files. I, unfortunately, do not remember what the sizes for the rear bolts were (1 through the trunk compartment floor and 2 up into the chassis from underneath) are. There are 2 models to choose from, A full-size 1 piece unit and a version a broke into 2 pieces using a dovetail joint for smaller printers. The 2 piece model will need supports to print the dovetails properly, split the model apart and print one at a time if needed. Once it is printed remove the supports and test fit them together, glue is not necessary on the joint but better to be safe than sorry Note it seems that using Cura it is difficult to split apart, when uploading to Prusaslicer it can be split to objects, if using Cura you may need to use modeling software to make 2 separate pieces as separate stls. I also included a spacer to use if you wish to also use the 3rd top bolt that goes through the inside of the body, although the CCP kits online do not reuse that mount after installing the spacer so I assume it is not necessary.
If you use the printable pdf to trace onto your own media, make sure that the settings for the printer are A4 Paper 100% scale. For the front set, the center hole should measure 75mm (Approx 3") and the 3 smaller holes 14mm (Approx 5/8") The whole thing should be 148x134mm (approx. 5 7/8"x5 1/3") For the rear, the holes should be 22mm wide on the short side and again printed on A4 paper.
Subframe Drop/Spacers
Also included, is a set of files for a 1" (25.4mm) subframe drop (effectively a body lift on this chassis). This will correct the CV angles of the driveshafts after doing a suspension lift. As for other thicknesses of spacers; 1/2" (12.7mm) works with the stock bolts and I have heard 5/8" (15.87mm) would as well but have not confirmed.
Bolts needed for subframe spacers (I recommend either class 8.8 or 10.9 Zinc plated bolts)ONLY NEEDED IF YOU GO OVER 1/2 THICK:
Front Subframe:
4- M14-2.00 120mm bolts (stock is 100mm, and are 18m longer than necessary)
4- M10-1.50 60mm bolts (stock is 40mm, these are the smaller bolts for the jack
pad on the rearward front mount 2 per side)
Rear Subframe:
4- M12-1.75 120mm bolts (stock is 100mm and are 18mm longer than necessary)
I have included a PDF file indicating Bolt size and placement on the subframes
you can reuse the smaller jackpad bolts with some large washers (10mm thick,
you can use less depending on the thickness of subframe spacers you use)
If you're looking to make the subframe spacers yourself out of some other material, here are the measurements, the thickness of the material will determine if you need longer bolts or not:
2 - 3" OD x 1" ID (front Passenger)
2 - 3" OD x 1 1/4" ID (Front Driver)
4 - 2" OD x 3/4" ID (Front Jack Plates, rearward mount)
4 - 3" OD x 3/4" ID (Rear)
*Rear Jackplates (Frontward Mount) will need large washers and reuse the stock bolts,
we found that 10mm worth of washers for 25.4mm spacers worked well
I recommend using 10perimeters, 50% infill, 15 solid top, and bottom layers, 0.3mm resolution with 0.65mm extrusion width. The spacer for the springs needs to be printed with supports on the build plate.
Disclaimer
Due to factors beyond my control, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this post. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and/or with any tools needed to do said work. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this post shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY. Any injury, damages, or loss that may result from improper use of the tools, equipment, or these files and this post is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.