Thingiverse
Tracked Inspection Bot (TPU) by CammServices
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
Great Micro Go anywhere tank with tilting FPV camera. I will be adding more options as time goes on, but I wanted to get these files live so people can start printing. I will be posting a build video shortly. This is a TPU/TPE (Semi Flex) print material only design. Turn Off Support material for all parts, you shouldn't need it.
When you finish printing the track give them a bit of stretching to soften them up a bit. They should fit with a bit of slack above the wheels. The Drive wheels are cogged and will move the tracks along just fine.
Battery Bay Dimensions Are:
32mm Wide
10mm Tall
65mm Long
The design will flex to accommodate if sections of the battery are larger. One of the reasons I chose TPU for the material.
Parts List
2x HexTronik MG14 Digital Metal Gear Servos (Modding Information Available Below)
1x Turnigy D56LV Digital Metal Gear Servo
1x Eachine TX03 3-in-1 FPV Camera
1x 3amp Micro UBEC
2 Cell Battery Pack (Recommend: Tattu 650mah for easy 4 hours of drive time.)
A Receiver (Recommend X6R, S6R, X4R or smaller.) X6R and S6R allow for Voltage Telemetry
2x 20mm M3 Screws (Front Riding Wheels)
2x 18mm M3 Screws (From Battery Compartment down to the bottom middle) (Button Cap Recommended)
1x 8mm M3 Screw (Rear) (Button Cap Recommended)
1x 12mm M3 Screw (Front Side Opposite of Servo Output)
1x 14mm M3 Screw (Front Center to RX Bay)
2x 3m Lock Nuts (Inside Lower Body Ride Wheel Axles)
7x 3m Nuts
1x 5mm M2 Screw (Front Servo Camera Mount)
All screws with the exception of the 20mm screws, should be a lower profile button cap design.
Modding the MG14 Servo for continuous Rotation:
-Remove the 4 screws and lift off the bottom housing
-Slide some extra servo wire though to make things easier.
-pushing firmly on the bottom of the motor, release the gear train section from the metal case. Be careful to not separate the gear train section. You will now see the square cased potentiometer next to the motor. Release it from the drive axle. It will be secured with a little bit of adhesive.
-Once the potentiometer is free connect the servo to a servo center tool or a paired receiver with a channel outputting 1500u. Now rotate the center of the potentiometer until the servo stops rotating. It may be a little difficult to find center. If you are not exact after the mod, don't worry you can trim it out with the radio.
-Now Glue the potentiometer so it can't rotate and fold the pins against the potentiometer and cover with a thin bit of shrink wrap.
-Now carefully fit everything back inside of the servo casing with the servo lead exiting out the opposite side of the servo output shaft. The bottom cap may have a small circular spacer depending on the generation. You can remove that piece with a set of needle nose pliers to give yourself more room. Everything should fit back inside the housing.
I would also like to thank the Facebook Group (Tiny Trak - Micro FPV Crawler) Community. It's how I got hooked on these little Crawlers. Their comments and support have been of great help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRERZqmnnxM
When you finish printing the track give them a bit of stretching to soften them up a bit. They should fit with a bit of slack above the wheels. The Drive wheels are cogged and will move the tracks along just fine.
Battery Bay Dimensions Are:
32mm Wide
10mm Tall
65mm Long
The design will flex to accommodate if sections of the battery are larger. One of the reasons I chose TPU for the material.
Parts List
2x HexTronik MG14 Digital Metal Gear Servos (Modding Information Available Below)
1x Turnigy D56LV Digital Metal Gear Servo
1x Eachine TX03 3-in-1 FPV Camera
1x 3amp Micro UBEC
2 Cell Battery Pack (Recommend: Tattu 650mah for easy 4 hours of drive time.)
A Receiver (Recommend X6R, S6R, X4R or smaller.) X6R and S6R allow for Voltage Telemetry
2x 20mm M3 Screws (Front Riding Wheels)
2x 18mm M3 Screws (From Battery Compartment down to the bottom middle) (Button Cap Recommended)
1x 8mm M3 Screw (Rear) (Button Cap Recommended)
1x 12mm M3 Screw (Front Side Opposite of Servo Output)
1x 14mm M3 Screw (Front Center to RX Bay)
2x 3m Lock Nuts (Inside Lower Body Ride Wheel Axles)
7x 3m Nuts
1x 5mm M2 Screw (Front Servo Camera Mount)
All screws with the exception of the 20mm screws, should be a lower profile button cap design.
Modding the MG14 Servo for continuous Rotation:
-Remove the 4 screws and lift off the bottom housing
-Slide some extra servo wire though to make things easier.
-pushing firmly on the bottom of the motor, release the gear train section from the metal case. Be careful to not separate the gear train section. You will now see the square cased potentiometer next to the motor. Release it from the drive axle. It will be secured with a little bit of adhesive.
-Once the potentiometer is free connect the servo to a servo center tool or a paired receiver with a channel outputting 1500u. Now rotate the center of the potentiometer until the servo stops rotating. It may be a little difficult to find center. If you are not exact after the mod, don't worry you can trim it out with the radio.
-Now Glue the potentiometer so it can't rotate and fold the pins against the potentiometer and cover with a thin bit of shrink wrap.
-Now carefully fit everything back inside of the servo casing with the servo lead exiting out the opposite side of the servo output shaft. The bottom cap may have a small circular spacer depending on the generation. You can remove that piece with a set of needle nose pliers to give yourself more room. Everything should fit back inside the housing.
I would also like to thank the Facebook Group (Tiny Trak - Micro FPV Crawler) Community. It's how I got hooked on these little Crawlers. Their comments and support have been of great help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRERZqmnnxM
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