The RepRap "Cubit" New Printer by netpipe

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Please wait before printing one of these it is still a WIP - pictures soon. all the holes seem to line up so it looks ok to print now, seems sturdy enough to handle the quick movements. (use remote extruder to keep it light). has only 8 1/2 inches of build height so if you want more cut your threadrod longer than 18" i would suggest for the z to use 20" or 26+" if you want to print larger tslot
the z carrage is so tight you dont need screws to secure them just hammer in.
print 4 of each block v10 , takes about 4 hours to print each block, can be done without supports.
prices in cdn
72 - 1/4 inch nuts - $10
15 - 5/16 inch nuts - $3
2 6' 1/4" peices of thread rod - $16 iirc
3 3' 8mm peices of smoothrod - $18
2 3' peices of 5/16 threadrod - $12
1 - 1 1/2 long 5/16 bolt with smooth part
2 1kg rolls of pla - $40
ballchain $10
6 z608 bearings $10
11 lm8uu bearings for the slides $10
parts cost about $90, $130 with PLA
electronics
ramps 1.4 - $6
lcd $10
arduino mega $6
steppers 11 dollars each x 3 so $33
5 x stepsticks the red ones $10
heatbed and glass - $20
PSU $20
$105 dollars total cost
20 hours to print at 50 watts is still less than 5 dollars so i wont factor that in.
230 total cost unless you want to print a larger 3' version then its going to be about 260 dollars.
the top z608 bearings need a bit of cleanup on the tops where the print sagged, use a dremmel with carbide tip or a drum sander attachment.
print of the 516 dual ballchain gears and one single for the x axis, even if only using one peice of ballchain double nut the sides where the nut insert is to prevent loosening. also print 2 nema 17 dual ballchain
was thinking shrink sleve and a peice of wire around it might work to secure the y axis dual ballchain or maybe just a short peice of ss wire
where the non motor side bearing is 1/2" bolt bolt head will have to be ground down for clearence on the xaxis its really close to the smoothrod and has to spin still also you might need to make a drill hole into where it touches the block OR cut the bolt end off and shave a nut down. could even go the full 3' or weld 2 together to make a 6' version if you attach it to a wall.
if you are using it for engraving there is 14 inches wide cleaence if you leave one of the bearings out on the x slide where the shaved bolt is.
also you need a drill and a peice of quarter inch smoothrod to make a short reamer tool for the vertical holes in the blocks for a tight fit.
the x axis peaks need to be grinded down 2mm to because they rub on the threadrod. use 1/8 x 1 1/2 " bolts to fasten the mount on. also you will have to drill the 2 bottom holes out to fit the bolts, existing holes are there already and the hook on top keeps it secure.
cut heatbed base board 11.5(could be 12") x 9" 1/4 inch thick fasten with 1/8" x 3/4 bolts the package says metal on them from home hardware clear package with white with blue label.
im going to be using a cyclops hotend converted into chimera for dual extrusion, plus it fits well inside the cube blocks.
i decided to go with 4.4 mm ballchainhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2971750
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1589653 hotend mount
the blocks print standing up without supports on my printer.
my next version of cubit will be using 2020 or 3030 printed tslot 3d hopefully more efficient use of plastic and time, if all goes well with the strength tests, gluing threadrod in place as joiners also do a melt in the middle with 2 peices.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2541291 3030 slot
new style of reprap using 3'x6' 4 peices of 1/4 inch threadrod - 12 x 18" pieces of 1/4 inch threadrod you can get 6' lengths at homehardware for 5 dollars each. going for a nice ultimaker / davinci style clone.
borrowed a few parts from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2260317