The Monolith 50mm E3D V6 Shroud Fanduct by PokeyDoggo model
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The Monolith 50mm E3D V6 Shroud Fanduct by PokeyDoggo

The Monolith 50mm E3D V6 Shroud Fanduct by PokeyDoggo

by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
EDIT: 21-02-2019
I'm busy with a COREXY version. I kinda.. well I did make a volcano version and tested them, but they sucked, my bad. I'm not a great designer.
This thing has worked for me and served me for the last few years, eventhough without any cooling the two ducts started melting and I'm clumsy. Nothing a bit of kapton tape could not solve.
A link to download the fusion360 files, which can be downloaded as all kinds of 3d files.https://a360.co/2DZDqSc
EDIT: 26-04-2018
Hey, seems like a lot of people like this. Uhm I kinda said I'd make a volcano version..
a year ago.
I was busy with college and what not with life. But the Volcano version will come.
This cooler shroud served me for over a year with clean ABS printing.
It did had some issues. Actually it had none, only though a problem of way to much filament clogging up at the hotend which I tried to remove and then I twisted the hotend against the side of the fanduct and it melted a little bit. Which I could easily scrape off with a knife and it still functioned perfectly. and the e3d cooler fanduct melted a little bit.
But I used this a few times with 100% fan speed for both 50mm fans, and it cooled the printed part so much that the layer adhesion was.. well it did adhere, but it was a weak connection. I could bridge stuff so easily and make 75+ degree angles but yeah cooling molten plastic too much, especially ABS is not a good idea.
But the main problem was, I couldn't see what it was printing directly.
So, I'll make a new version! It's almost done. The first will be a way too large Volcano one.
Which I then improve.
And a standalone 50mm e3d V6 cooler version which you can snap on like the original 30mm one.
Then a duct like this one, but it only two 50mm fans, for the normal heatingblock and the volcano to reduce mass and the size.
Maybe I'll figure out how to fit a 60mm fan.
Might just remake the 50mm version for a 40mm one.
Actually I also have a 2x mk7 hobbed bolt extuder idea, for bowder and direct drive. But I'll focus on the fanducts first.
Stay tuned, they will be up in a week or so.
I'll make a E3D V6 Volcano version soon and both V5 versions. Since I also have such a hotend and heatsink laying around. But I'll redesign it from scratch, because my old fusion 360 file takes way too long to load because it had too many additions and extrusion. But I keep learning new things.
I also printed quite a bit with this new shroud, and it works fine at 150mm/s setting in cura, eventhough the anet cannot reach those speeds. And nothing has melted yet at 270 degrees.
Edit: Set your fan speed to 100% if you need to bridge.
Assembly:
The E3D V6 heatsink might have a very tight fit or it does not fit at first. You need to push it into the plastic pretty hard. I took the direct dimensions with a caliper, and even removed 0.01mm here and there. But I also wanted to prevent resonance so it’s a very tight fit.
This shroud should fit on any groovemount if there is enough room at the front. I kept about 1mm of space between the back of the plastic and the back of the heatsink. So there would always be 1 mm free space for the hot air to espace and to solve any mounting issues.
When you want to screw this shroud to the groovemount, you might need drill out the holes at the top. I made these to be 3.0mm, the diameter of a M3 screw, but I had some filament in between so I had to drill it out very slightly. These groovemount screwholes should give no resistance.
On my own AnetA8 I could remove the extra X-stop and I now use the default X-stop location. Because this shroud is (surprisingly) not as wide as I initially thought.
When I mounted this to my own X-carriage (which is very butchered) I had to screw it together with quite some force but not too much force to get everything to fit tightly. But it won’t go anywhere now.
For reference of the width of the screw holes that I used, I used these groovemount X-carriage for the Prusa i3 and AnetA8:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2099577 ANET A8 | Customizable E3D v6 Carriage / Bowden mount by TNS, published Feb 12, 2017
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1632847 E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3 by Tech2C, published Jun 18, 2016
I kept this thing as a whole block due to mounting weight and the lack of space for a mounting block.
I did kept in account that screw heads are about 4.7mm in diameter so I made the grooves to be 5mm.
For mounting the fans I used M3 screws, and made the holes to be 2.9mm so it grips on the plastic when you screw it in. The screwholes for the fans are 6mm deep into the plastic. I used 20mm screws myself for these fans. The screwhole walls are 1mm or more so it should not break easily.
There should be around 2 to 3mm of space between the lowest part of the fanduct and the tip of the E3D nozzle. These fanducts blow directly and a bit below the nozzle. Atleast I hope that it does that, I’m not a wind engineer. But you can inspect the STL file if it’s to your liking. I test printed some frogs which had an overhand at their chin and belly and that worked out very well, with 35% fan speed.
I printed this with 2 walls and 15% infill. Use whatever setting you like but so note that the mounting pressing for the heatsink to fit onto the plastic is pretty high.
Extra information and reasoning:
This is a triple 50mm fan shroud that I made for 2 purposes:
Actually fit on the X-carriage groove mount for E3D heatsinks.
To be able to use 50mm silent fans.
[3. To not resonate when I’m printing fast]
It’s a large block, but surprisingly not as wide as the other shrouds that I printed from other people. Multiple plastic parts that are held down with bolts can have small gaps and can resonate at high print speeds (60+ mm/s). I also kept about 7mm of space in between the heatingblock and the plastic shroud so the plastic does not soften when I print at 270 degrees Celsius or hotter. (for stronger layer adhesion as the filament melts into the previous layers. Skynet3D has a safety shut down at 275 degrees, but I’ll be using a pt100 thermocouple soon to print POM or PETG)
For me there is enough space in between the heating block and the plastic shroud; I use Chinese clone parts to tinker around.
I made this fan shroud in fusion 360, with too much effort by only using the model tools. So I used a lot of sketches and extrusions. I should have used the sculpt tools instead.
I used these fans:
Gelid Solutions Silent 5
Size: 50 mm
Noise: 23 dB
Airflow: 21,94 m³/h
Airflow: 12,91 cf/m
Max RPM: 4.000rpm
These cost me about 5 euro’s a piece. And they are pretty silent, as they do make noise but at a lower frequency pitch. It's more like a blowing noise instead of a tearing noise that'll hear on turbine fans. But due to my design faults, it can cause turbulence which makes the fans a bit louder than when you do not mount them. And these fans pull/suck a lot of air in. I might put a tachometer in between so I can regulate the fan speed for the heatsink. The filament coolers can be controlled by the board/slicer software. But at the moment my anet a8 frame is squeaking louder than the noise of the fans.
Apparently if You write here your token expires and you'll loose all your text.
Should have know that, as for my previous experiences with writing on thingyverse.
As you can read here:https://www.thingiverse.com/PokeyDoggo/collections/anet-a8-early-upgradeshttps://www.thingiverse.com/PokeyDoggo/collections/e3d-v6-hotend-filament-coolers
So there goes half an hour of typing and getting the right data and pictures.
I'll update this with a proper description if I feel like it.
Yes I have multiple heatsinks and heaterblocks. One used, one not yet used.

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