Tevo Tornado all in one / standalone conversion by TeachingTech

Last crawled date: 4 years, 1 month ago

Tevo Tornado all in one / standalone pieces to delete the separate control box.
This involves moving mains wired components which brings a degree of risk. Take extreme caution and consult a professional electrician before attempting this conversion.
Wiring:
You will need to cut and solder some wiring to complete this. The loom and plug for the heated bed is maintained, but the loom and plug for hot end is not, due to me switching to a dual extrusion setup during this conversion. Some wires need to be extended and some need to be shortened. I would recommend getting the mainboard mounted and then going from there. Wiring from some section and be cut and then spliced into others to help. The LCD ribbon cable may be too short depending on exactly where you mount it.
LCD:
Uses the wonderful LCD case from Mightynozzle https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813298 but with a modified base to bolt onto the 4020 extrusion.
Power supply:
No geometry was used but inspiration was taken from Elektrolenin's design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3221960
All of the mains supply components are sealed together for safety. The standard loom and connector is maintained for the heated bed so these don't have to be altered. This puts the plug for the heated bed in a less than ideal position for snagging but a part is provided for this. The solid state relay during my testing has not gotten hot at all and so far seems safe to mount to the PLA case. Please run an earthing cable from the PSU earth terminal to the main frame of the printer.
MKS mount:
The electronics sit at the rear right of the printer, under the moving bed. The lid for this flexes and clips into the frame of the printer. So far it has been quick to take on and off. It is the only part here that needs support. The fan mount uses twin 40x10mm fans, the cut out in the middle is for the USB cable to pass through. This system should have just enough room to fit typical heat sinks on top of the stepper motor drivers. The bed levelling screws may need to be replaced with shorter ones depending on how far you have the knobs tensioned. Mine just clear.
Cable management:
There are three pieces. One goes on the right hand side of the x axis gantry, but actually attached to the z axis roller bracket in this area. Normally the wiring goes to the left of the hot end but this now moves it to the right.
The router piece bolts onto the printer's right foot to curve the hot end/extruder wiring out of the way of the moving y carriage nd bed.
The final piece clips onto the y stepper motor to stop the heated bed wires snagging on it and pulling tight.
Hardware:
Where existing nuts and bolts aren't reused, this conversion generally requires M4x8-12mm bolts and tee nuts to suit the extrusion frame of the printer.
Visual reference:
The pics provided should hopefully see you through. The LCD base mod and y motor ramp weren't complete at that stage, bu they should be self explanatory. Further footage can be seen in the companion video: https://youtu.be/ag7b9jOhlPY