Thingiverse
Spinball Drop Target by Cynr1c
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
Spinball drop target, as used e.g. in the Jolly Park pinball machine. Maybe it helps other owners of these very rare spanish machines with the unobtainability of spare parts..
This design has been modified a little from the original part: The spring now attaches to a hook instead of having to be fiddled through a hole; the rim that holds the target up has been shortened a little so that catches easier.
Note: At least with Jolly Park the flap at the bottom is used to trigger opto contacts. For this to work the material used has to be IR blocking! The lazy man's way would be to paint it with a black CD pen (check with your phone camera and a remote if it really is)..
Print lying on the side, flap on the build plate with full interior and exterior support. I'd rather print a little hotter than usual to get a real proper layer bonding as these drop targets take some serious punishment. PLA tested but ABS or PETG would probably be the better choice.
€: I just added another version of the drop target (r7). This one has a small (0.4mm) slit cut into the flap, so that you can shove a piece of thin IR blocking material in (I used a piece of sheet metal from an SMD shim blade). Also the flap has been elongated towards the target top by 6mm as it turned out that - at least with Jolly Park - the original design dives to far down that the optos are only barely interrupted by the flap.
Our real-world tests of the printed targets revealed that the bottom bar tends to break out easily. This happens since when dropping the targets crash on there and with every bank reset they are punched upward just on there too. For reliable use, I suggest reinforcing the bar in some way. We used a coat of fast-curing epoxy, but there are no real-word results of this yet.
This design has been modified a little from the original part: The spring now attaches to a hook instead of having to be fiddled through a hole; the rim that holds the target up has been shortened a little so that catches easier.
Note: At least with Jolly Park the flap at the bottom is used to trigger opto contacts. For this to work the material used has to be IR blocking! The lazy man's way would be to paint it with a black CD pen (check with your phone camera and a remote if it really is)..
Print lying on the side, flap on the build plate with full interior and exterior support. I'd rather print a little hotter than usual to get a real proper layer bonding as these drop targets take some serious punishment. PLA tested but ABS or PETG would probably be the better choice.
€: I just added another version of the drop target (r7). This one has a small (0.4mm) slit cut into the flap, so that you can shove a piece of thin IR blocking material in (I used a piece of sheet metal from an SMD shim blade). Also the flap has been elongated towards the target top by 6mm as it turned out that - at least with Jolly Park - the original design dives to far down that the optos are only barely interrupted by the flap.
Our real-world tests of the printed targets revealed that the bottom bar tends to break out easily. This happens since when dropping the targets crash on there and with every bank reset they are punched upward just on there too. For reliable use, I suggest reinforcing the bar in some way. We used a coat of fast-curing epoxy, but there are no real-word results of this yet.
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