Thingiverse
SpiffBot CoreXY 3D Printer by spiffcow
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
Update 10/24/2016
I'm officially abandoning the whole nylon slider idea. It might work if you used POM, but nylon is not suitable, and I'm not willing to sink any more time into it. I've switched back to wheels.
Update 9/11/2016
I have improved the sliders. There are now Y and Z sliders and a sliding X direct drive carriage based on croadfeldt's work (modified source code is available on github). For the extruder use a bowden adapter of your choice (I used the C-Bot bowden adapter).
Use Taulman 645 or Bridge for the sliders, and make sure you get as little warping as possible. I have had great results using Printbite at 95C for the first layer and 105C for all other layers.
I'm currently running the printer completely without wheels with no discernible loss of quality. Pictures coming soon once I clean it all up.
This is a collection of modifications for Carl Feniak's C-Bot. Many of the parts are redesigned for increased rigidity, reduced cost, and reduced build time requirements.
The latest code is always available on github (the code pretty ugly at the moment.. This project has been my learning project for OpenSCAD).
The corner brackets, stepper mounts, and perpendicular brackets are all tested and provide an extremely rigid frame for the printer. I have done full prints at 150mm/s with a heavy direct drive stepper on the carriage. Attempts to go higher fail only because my steppers are not up to the task -- the frame remains rock solid.
Currently I would recommend avoiding the sliders unless you are feeling adventurous, as I have encountered a few issues trying to get them to function adequately.
A secondary benefit is that the tolerances are so tight that being able to assemble the printer virtually guarantees that it is square -- assuming the printer you used to print the brackets is also square. This allows you to get to an assembled and squared frame in a matter of hours.
I'm officially abandoning the whole nylon slider idea. It might work if you used POM, but nylon is not suitable, and I'm not willing to sink any more time into it. I've switched back to wheels.
Update 9/11/2016
I have improved the sliders. There are now Y and Z sliders and a sliding X direct drive carriage based on croadfeldt's work (modified source code is available on github). For the extruder use a bowden adapter of your choice (I used the C-Bot bowden adapter).
Use Taulman 645 or Bridge for the sliders, and make sure you get as little warping as possible. I have had great results using Printbite at 95C for the first layer and 105C for all other layers.
I'm currently running the printer completely without wheels with no discernible loss of quality. Pictures coming soon once I clean it all up.
This is a collection of modifications for Carl Feniak's C-Bot. Many of the parts are redesigned for increased rigidity, reduced cost, and reduced build time requirements.
The latest code is always available on github (the code pretty ugly at the moment.. This project has been my learning project for OpenSCAD).
The corner brackets, stepper mounts, and perpendicular brackets are all tested and provide an extremely rigid frame for the printer. I have done full prints at 150mm/s with a heavy direct drive stepper on the carriage. Attempts to go higher fail only because my steppers are not up to the task -- the frame remains rock solid.
Currently I would recommend avoiding the sliders unless you are feeling adventurous, as I have encountered a few issues trying to get them to function adequately.
A secondary benefit is that the tolerances are so tight that being able to assemble the printer virtually guarantees that it is square -- assuming the printer you used to print the brackets is also square. This allows you to get to an assembled and squared frame in a matter of hours.
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