Thingiverse
Slim Rostock Max V3/HE280 Fan Shroud, Light Weight, Rounded by TimStough
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
BIG UPDATE 11/7/2017:
After many redesigns and tests, I am posting the 5th (and I hope final) version. This shroud fits within the slim enclosure and allows printing to the edge without hitting the bed clips. The autocalibration wizard and OctoPrint plugins run flawlessly. I should really do some bridging tests to see how much this improves bridging, but it does put a bunch of air on the plastic without cooling the nozzle. Also, note the green bowden coupler above the fans; this allows easier filament changes when the tube is tightened into the HE280 hot end. I have included STLs for the coupler and a Tall PTC tool so that you can tighten down the bowden tube without removing the fans. The coupler uses the following fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB81IHG
I have reprinted all of the parts in the Yellow PETG that you see in image for strength and heat resistance. I think that the fan shroud might be too close to the heater block to use PLA.
Note 3/23/2017:
I recognize that these shrouds cause issues printing at the very edge of the bed due to the bed clips and the enclosure wall. These shrouds currently prevent the 10 point auto-calibration via the SeeMeCNC wizard or the OctoPrint Delta Plugin. I am currently working on a redesign, but am not ready to post. If you wish to run the 10 point auto-calibration, please remove the fan shrouds to prevent crashes.
Update 1/24/2017:
V2 is based on feedback that the shroud exit was too low and was hitting prints. This is designed to give more clearance (1mm from bottom to nozzle exit with the stock nozzle) and to direct the flow below the heater block. I've also slimmed the main duct to reduce chance of arm collision.
Original 1/23/2017:
From Noircogi: "This mod moves the three part fans on the HE280 in and up above the hot end. The point of this mod is to allow a narrow enclosure. The stock part fan layout moves the fans considerably outside the base frame when the head is near the bed limits. This allows full travel with a narrow enclosure.
Airflow is a bit less, but better directed. You still will not need to run the fans at 100% in my experience.
You will need to trim the small plastic tabs on the effector plate before installing the shrouds."
I would also like to credit http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1900098 for inspiring the shape of the end of duct and the wall thickness and for pointers to the hotend models.
My contribution here is to make the part lighter, more rounded, and to improve the direction of the airflow towards the space directly beneath the nozzle. On my hotend, the shroud easily clears the bed/part when using the stock nozzle. This means that with the longer ED3 nozzles, there should be no clearance issues at all.
After many redesigns and tests, I am posting the 5th (and I hope final) version. This shroud fits within the slim enclosure and allows printing to the edge without hitting the bed clips. The autocalibration wizard and OctoPrint plugins run flawlessly. I should really do some bridging tests to see how much this improves bridging, but it does put a bunch of air on the plastic without cooling the nozzle. Also, note the green bowden coupler above the fans; this allows easier filament changes when the tube is tightened into the HE280 hot end. I have included STLs for the coupler and a Tall PTC tool so that you can tighten down the bowden tube without removing the fans. The coupler uses the following fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB81IHG
I have reprinted all of the parts in the Yellow PETG that you see in image for strength and heat resistance. I think that the fan shroud might be too close to the heater block to use PLA.
Note 3/23/2017:
I recognize that these shrouds cause issues printing at the very edge of the bed due to the bed clips and the enclosure wall. These shrouds currently prevent the 10 point auto-calibration via the SeeMeCNC wizard or the OctoPrint Delta Plugin. I am currently working on a redesign, but am not ready to post. If you wish to run the 10 point auto-calibration, please remove the fan shrouds to prevent crashes.
Update 1/24/2017:
V2 is based on feedback that the shroud exit was too low and was hitting prints. This is designed to give more clearance (1mm from bottom to nozzle exit with the stock nozzle) and to direct the flow below the heater block. I've also slimmed the main duct to reduce chance of arm collision.
Original 1/23/2017:
From Noircogi: "This mod moves the three part fans on the HE280 in and up above the hot end. The point of this mod is to allow a narrow enclosure. The stock part fan layout moves the fans considerably outside the base frame when the head is near the bed limits. This allows full travel with a narrow enclosure.
Airflow is a bit less, but better directed. You still will not need to run the fans at 100% in my experience.
You will need to trim the small plastic tabs on the effector plate before installing the shrouds."
I would also like to credit http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1900098 for inspiring the shape of the end of duct and the wall thickness and for pointers to the hotend models.
My contribution here is to make the part lighter, more rounded, and to improve the direction of the airflow towards the space directly beneath the nozzle. On my hotend, the shroud easily clears the bed/part when using the stock nozzle. This means that with the longer ED3 nozzles, there should be no clearance issues at all.
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