Thingiverse
Simple Ikea Lack Enclosure (WIP) by whiteglint143
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
This is a beta design, you will need to free style some things a little bit to get this to work for you. Take my measurements with a grain of salt and MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE!
I was not satisfied with the other Ikea Lack table enclosures so I set off to design my own. For me, this was a one off deal so the STL files are not 100% perfect but I received a few requests for my design anyways. I do not intend to build another one and no longer have the cad files so I will not be updating this.
The overall performance of this enclosure might be too good. I used foam tape to seal all of the gaps and tried to minimize the amount of air to escape. With the bed set to 60C degrees and my home set to 75F, the chamber will reach 95F after about an hour. This is warm enough to cause heat creep issues that I am currently trying to resolve. It also does an excellent job at cutting the noise down.
The Ikea tables are about 3" too short to fit over the wanhao i3 plus without a riser. You can print the riser but it's a waste of time and plastic in my opinion. I took the second Ikea table and cut the 3" off of each end of the legs. It is important to cut the ends off because the legs are actually hollow with end-blocks glued in. I screwed the four 3" extensions onto the uncut legs leaving the hollow side pointing down. The "EnclosureTopFoot" will plug into those legs. This allows you to pull the top of the enclosure off for what ever reason. I screwed the other 3" pieces onto the bottom of the table to raise it up. I intend to move the power supply to this area so it is not constantly in a heated chamber.
The 3 panels are just acrylic from the hardware store. These are on hinges so I can easily reach in to the enclosure and access the printer. The back is some type of fireproof aluminum foil covered cardboard from the local hardware store insulation section. I was originally going to mount a heat lamp to the back but did not have the room. The heatbed does a fine job at heating the chamber anyways. My front panel was 2" too short so I taped a second piece on :) (It was originally cut for the knock off version of the Lack table on Amazon)
The filament guide is not directly over the x axis gantry. I placed it about 6 inches back from the front edge of the chamber. I was hoping the filament path would be easier on the printer while minimizing the amount of air escaping. I suggest mounting your filament directly above the hole so it feeds straight in.
I use "The Ultimate Spool Holder" here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2214740 and cut the little legs off. I screwed two 1/8th inch thick pieces of plywood (acrylic would do too) to the top to act as a holder to the TUSH.
I was not satisfied with the other Ikea Lack table enclosures so I set off to design my own. For me, this was a one off deal so the STL files are not 100% perfect but I received a few requests for my design anyways. I do not intend to build another one and no longer have the cad files so I will not be updating this.
The overall performance of this enclosure might be too good. I used foam tape to seal all of the gaps and tried to minimize the amount of air to escape. With the bed set to 60C degrees and my home set to 75F, the chamber will reach 95F after about an hour. This is warm enough to cause heat creep issues that I am currently trying to resolve. It also does an excellent job at cutting the noise down.
The Ikea tables are about 3" too short to fit over the wanhao i3 plus without a riser. You can print the riser but it's a waste of time and plastic in my opinion. I took the second Ikea table and cut the 3" off of each end of the legs. It is important to cut the ends off because the legs are actually hollow with end-blocks glued in. I screwed the four 3" extensions onto the uncut legs leaving the hollow side pointing down. The "EnclosureTopFoot" will plug into those legs. This allows you to pull the top of the enclosure off for what ever reason. I screwed the other 3" pieces onto the bottom of the table to raise it up. I intend to move the power supply to this area so it is not constantly in a heated chamber.
The 3 panels are just acrylic from the hardware store. These are on hinges so I can easily reach in to the enclosure and access the printer. The back is some type of fireproof aluminum foil covered cardboard from the local hardware store insulation section. I was originally going to mount a heat lamp to the back but did not have the room. The heatbed does a fine job at heating the chamber anyways. My front panel was 2" too short so I taped a second piece on :) (It was originally cut for the knock off version of the Lack table on Amazon)
The filament guide is not directly over the x axis gantry. I placed it about 6 inches back from the front edge of the chamber. I was hoping the filament path would be easier on the printer while minimizing the amount of air escaping. I suggest mounting your filament directly above the hole so it feeds straight in.
I use "The Ultimate Spool Holder" here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2214740 and cut the little legs off. I screwed two 1/8th inch thick pieces of plywood (acrylic would do too) to the top to act as a holder to the TUSH.
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