Thingiverse
Servobelt Y-drive for LowRider2 CNC
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 2 months ago
This setup replaces the Y-drive on the Lowrider2 CNC from http://www.v1engineering.com
My setup uses 80/20 15 series on the outer rails (3"x3").
The servobelt drive engages the drive belt with a static belt so that the only area of stretch is between the rollers and the drive motor. The other advantages:
a) it gets the belt out of the way from getting caught on things
b) the belt rollers keep the rig aligned and rigid in X axis (and take some load)
c) the Y plate doesn't actually need the center hole cut for the motor (stiffer plate)
The main disadvantage is that it takes twice as much belt
The belt is bonded to the 80/20 with 10mm 3M VHB tape. It's not a super strong bond, but the total surface area makes up for that, and the end clamps keep it from peeling away
I also use one of the top YZ rollers upside-down on the bottom side with a printed T-wheel to add Z rigidity.
Extra parts needed:
(2) M5x10mm hex-head bolt to adjust tension (no room for an allen key).
(2) M5 bolt and nut for toothed idler (same as smooth idler bolts)
(2) GT2 x 10mm wide toothed idler
(4) 80/20 t-slot nuts for belt clamps
extra 10mm wide GT2 belt
10mm wide 3M VHB tape
(2) 5/16"x3.75" bolt for lower Y idler
(4) bearings
My setup uses 80/20 15 series on the outer rails (3"x3").
The servobelt drive engages the drive belt with a static belt so that the only area of stretch is between the rollers and the drive motor. The other advantages:
a) it gets the belt out of the way from getting caught on things
b) the belt rollers keep the rig aligned and rigid in X axis (and take some load)
c) the Y plate doesn't actually need the center hole cut for the motor (stiffer plate)
The main disadvantage is that it takes twice as much belt
The belt is bonded to the 80/20 with 10mm 3M VHB tape. It's not a super strong bond, but the total surface area makes up for that, and the end clamps keep it from peeling away
I also use one of the top YZ rollers upside-down on the bottom side with a printed T-wheel to add Z rigidity.
Extra parts needed:
(2) M5x10mm hex-head bolt to adjust tension (no room for an allen key).
(2) M5 bolt and nut for toothed idler (same as smooth idler bolts)
(2) GT2 x 10mm wide toothed idler
(4) 80/20 t-slot nuts for belt clamps
extra 10mm wide GT2 belt
10mm wide 3M VHB tape
(2) 5/16"x3.75" bolt for lower Y idler
(4) bearings
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