Seckit SK-GO² starter upgrade set - endstop bumper, cable mount, BL-touch, xy optical endstop, filament holder, clips - may als work for other SecKit printers by caesar_1111

Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago

DISCLAIMER:
This is the v0.1 of this thing, so it may contain errors. Please let me know immediately if you stumble across some errors or inconsistencies, so I can improve the thing for all the others!
I do not guarantee that the things and Marlin configuration are working with your printer! If you are using any of those things or Marlin configuration you are doing it on our own risk!
First of all:
I want to thank Ernest Lin for providing such great printers and all the support you need to get up and running.
For those who are thinking of ordering a printer and will go along with the credo “SecKit, Your Second 3D Printer Kit the overkill CoreXY platform to get you out of endless repair-tweak-upgrade loop and get things done” it’s definitely worth the wait when ordering at https://seckit3dp.design/ since you will get a complete set which contains all the necessary parts to build (it took me around 20hrs) a working industry grade printer. During the build I already started to work on some upgrades I found on thingiverse and also designed myself. So I created this thing to:
Share the list/links of self printed parts I added to the printer including the stl files of some additionally designed parts I added to the printer. Some of the files will replace the files Ernest is providing on his github page, so you may always doublecheck which design you prefer. This also includes the optional Frame mounted filament holder DELUXE
Share the details about applying the optional optical endstops to my printer running 2209 stepper drivers (files and Marlin 2.x changes)
Share the details about adding an optional BL-Touch to my printer (files and Marlin 2.x changes)
Upgrades for direct drive setup with E3D V6 hotend
Some of the parts of the Shopping list might already be included in the SecKit kit.
Basic setup
Parts to be printed:

SK-Go2_Z-Rail_Lower_Endstop.stl (this protects the linear rail block from the z rail from sliding of the rail while assembly)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M4x8 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4 t-nut


SK_Go2_X_min_sensorless_homing_bumper_and_assembly_bumper.stl (applied on both sides of the x axis this protects the linear rail block from the x rail from sliding of the rail while assembly; it is replacing the original SK-Go X-min sensorless homing bumper from SecKit github)


SK-Go2_Position_A_Y-Endstop_Railmounted.stl (This endstop ensures that the part cooling fan is not touching the upper frontal 20x20 aluminum extrusion if raised to the top, see picture of how I set up the frame)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M3x20 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 washers


SK-Go2_5mm_Shorter_Nylontube_Replacement_for_Bedlevellingscrew.stl (this replaces the 10mm nylon spacer for the left and right bed leveling screw at the z rails)


SK-Go2_Fanduct_Nut_Holder_LH.stl & SK-Go2_Fanduct_Nut_Holder_RH.stl (this clips are holding the M3 nuts for the fanduct assembly in place while clipping on the lower carriage spacers, see also picture; this will come in handy if you are tuning the hotend and have to reassemble the duct multiple times)


SK-Go2_Z-Axis_assembly_gauge_Lead_Screw_Only.stl & SK-Go2_Z-Axis_assembly_gauge_Lead_Screw_Nut.stl (this helps to allign the z-axis with the lead screw. First use the gauges to center the linear rail on the 2020 extrusion (this replaces the original gauge) then place the lead screw nut in the lower part, the lead screw in the upper part to assemble the lower lead screw bearing. Before tightening the bearing to the lower 2020 extrusion, just revolve the lead screw multiple times to make sure the bearing with the leadscrew in it is alligned to the linear rail)


SK-Go2_Z-Rail_Lower_Endstop.stl (this protects the linear rail block from the z rail from sliding of the rail while assembly)


SK-Go2_Extruder_Frame_Cable_Bracket.stl (This bracket can be attached to the extruder and the frame at the back. It is featuring a 4mm hole to apply a standard PTFE tube for better cable guidance)
Shopping list:
-- 4 pcs M3x10 bolt (use M3x15 bolts if you also plan to go with the X and Y optical endstop)
-- 4 pcs M3 washers
-- 4 pcs M3 nut
-- 2 pcs M4x8 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4 t-nut
-- approx 50cm PTFE tube 4mm outer diameter


SK-Go2_Reverse_Bowden_Extruder_Bracket.stl (This bracket will take away the bending from the BMG extruder fitting where the reverse bowden tube is attached)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M3x10 bolt (M3x15 will also fit)
-- 2 pcs M3 nut


SK-Go2_PTFE_Tube_antibend_50mm.stl and SK-Go2_PTFE_Tube_antibend_100mm.stl (optional) (If you are planning to replace the original reverse bowden tube with a softer one and experience some bending, just clip those on the outside of the tube where it should not bend)


SK-Go filament sensor holder by Michael Laws.stl (taken from printed parts STL folder from SecKit github)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M4x10 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4 t-nut
-- 2 pcs M2 washers
-- 2 pcs M3x15 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 washers


SK-Go fan duct.v2.direct.stl (taken from printed parts STL folder from SecKit github)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M3x10 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 nut


12864 display cover with slope.stl (taken from printed parts STL folder from SecKit github)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M3x20 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 nut
-- 2 pcs M4x10 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4 t-nut
-- 2 pcs M4 washers


SG-Go2_20x20_angled_Bracket_for_Display_Cover.stl (fits only to the two additinal holes of the 12864 display cover with slope.stl)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M4x8 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4x10 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4 t-nut
-- 2 pcs M4 nut
-- 2 pcs M4 washers


Seckit Go 2 - ZMount Shims (from Thingiverse Some z-leadscrew bearing tend to grind into the horizontal 2020 extrusion. alpokemon designed mulitple diameters. just put them under the bearing, tighten the nuts and make sure, the inner bearing is turing without any contact to the extrusion)


Meanwell LRS-350-24 cover for SecKit SK-GO (from Thingiverse)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M4x8 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4 washers


SecKit open angled cover with logo (from Thingiverse)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M3x15 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 nut


Belt Tensioner for sk go 3d printer (from Thingiverse)
Shopping list:
-- 4 pcs M3x20 bolt
-- 4 pcs M3 nut


SKR v1.3 Ducted Stepper Driver Cooler (from Thingiverse replaces SK-Go driver cooling fan mount.stl)
Shopping list:
-- 4 pcs M3x15 bolt
-- 4 pcs M3 nut


SKR 1.3 Board Drivercooler Clips for Things 3576392 and 4163812 - SKR_1.3_Board_Drivercooler_Clip.stl and SKR_1.3_Board_Drivercooler_Fan_Side_Clip_thing_4163812.stl ([from Thingiverse]( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4570496) clips the SKR v1.3 Ducted Stepper Driver Cooler to the board)

YACC (Yet Another Cable Clip) for 20x20 Aluminum Extrusion 8mm (from Thingiverse)
Frame mounted filament holder DELUXE (optional)
Parts to be printed

SK-Go2_Filament_Holder_DELUXE_Bracket.stl (to mount the Ender 3 - Filament holder DELUXE to the frame. Replacing Mounting_bracket.stl and Mounting_bracket_nut.stl)


SG-Go2_20x20_angled_Bracket.stl (optional if you assemble the SK-Go2_Filament_Holder_DELUXE_Bracket.stl to the 20x20 rail)


Ender 3 - Filament holder DELUXE - Filament_holder.stl, Filament_nut.stl and Optional_thread_guide.stl (from Thingiverse)
Shopping list:
-- 16 cm long M8 threadbar
-- 2 pcs 608Z bearings
-- 2 pcs M8 nylon lock nuts
-- 2 pcs M8 washers
-- 4 pcs M4x10 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4x8 bolt
-- 4 pcs M4 t-nut
-- 2 pcs M4 nut
-- 6 pcs M4 washers

SK-Go2_Filament_Guide.stl (Mounts just above the SK-Go2_Filament_Holder_DELUXE_Bracket.stl on the vertical 2020 extrusion. It will stop the filament from getting tangled around the Filament_Holder_DELUXE bracket when having a new spool.)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M3x10 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 washers
-- 2 pcs M3 t-nut
X and Y optical endstop (optional)
Parts to be printed
SK_Go2_X_min_sensorless_homing_bumper_and_assembly_bumper_with_optical_endstop_trigger.stl (this is replacing the left SK_Go2_X_min_sensorless_homing_bumper_and_assembly_bumper.stl)

SK-Go2_X_Optical_Endstop_Mount_Addon_Bracket.stl (to be attached at the back of the SK-Go2_Extruder_Frame_Cable_Bracket.stl)
Shopping list:
-- 1 pcs LERDGE Optical Endstop (one is included in the kit)
-- 2 pcs M3x8 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 nut


Y optical endstop mount.stl (taken from printed parts STL folder from SecKit github)
Shopping list:
-- 2 pcs M3x8 bolt
-- 2 pcs M3 nut
-- 2 pcs M4x8 bolt
-- 2 pcs M4 t-nut

Y optical endstop trigger.stl (taken from printed parts STL folder from SecKit github)
Connecting to mainboard
Unplug the xst and yst jumper on the SKR 1.3 board for the optical sensors to work with the board (board connect an pin layout picture included). Connect the Sensor to the x- and y- endstop pin. Make sure that the pins are matching up (see also assembly manual). you might have to change the order of the wires to have the V, G and S pin at the sensor matching the V, G and S pin at the board. If the sensor is wired up correctly, you will a a green LED shining as soon as you put an object into the sensor gap.
Fun fact : Consider the material you are using to print the SK_Go2_X_min_sensorless_homing_bumper_and_assembly_bumper_with_optical_endstop_trigger.stl and Y optical endstop trigger.stl endstop triggers. I was using SUNLU PETG green and it was somehow not triggering the sensor. I had to wrap it in black tape to make it work.
BL-Touch (optional)
Parts to be printed
SKGO Fan Duct with BLTouch (from Thingiverse replaces SK-Go fan duct.v2.direct.stl)
Shopping list:
-- ANTCLABS BL Touch V3.1 https://www.antclabs.com/bltouch-v3 (e.g. from Aliexpress )
-- Alternatively a cheaper clone like the 3D touch (e.g. from Aliexpress this one comes already with a 1m cable extension )
-- 5x 1m cable with cable to female dupont pins. (needed to extend the BL Touch wires. Some bundles are already including this cable)
Connecting to mainboard
Thanks to Chris Riley’s YouTube tutorial I was able to get this done easily.
Unplug the zst jumper on the SKR 1.3 board for the BLToouch to work with the board (board connect an pin layout picture included). Connect the your black/white cable to the z- endstop pins. Connect the brown/red/orange cable to the SERVOS pins on the SKR 1.3 board. Make sure that the pins are matching up (BLTouch wiring picture included). You have to exchange the red and the brown wire if you are using an 3 pin extension plug for the SERVOS cable.
Configuration of Marlin for X and Y optical endstop and BL-Touch
I included my current versions of:
Configuration.h
Configuration_adv.h
Make sure not to copy those files but use a text editor to compare those files with your original ones to identify the changes and modify your original files.
Every change is commented with “// upgrade_set:” so you also can search for all the changes if comparing is no good for you.
Octoprint on raspberry (octopi) with the 7″ touchscreen monitor for Raspberry Pi using the TouchUI with the Boot-To-Browser option. (optional)
If you were puzzled about the screen assembled to the top of my frame…..
Since I have done a lot of customizing on my octoprint to control my SK-Go² (e.g. temperature presents, movement and bed levelling support) by using the Terminal Commands Extended plugin, I now wanted to be able to use this without having a computer up and running.
And again thanks to Chris Rileys YouTube tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqy3dVZ4JH4 it was easy to utilize my 7″ touchscreen monitor for Raspberry Pi I had laying around to get it done.
Shopping list:
-- Raspberry pi incl. power supply (I used a 3B+)
-- approx.. 1.5m USB A cable (e.g. from AliExpress)
-- 7″ touchscreen monitor for Raspberry Pi (I used the original bought from Amazon which came with a housing I could directly mount to the 20x20 extrusion using 2x M4x8 bolt and 2x M4 t-nuts) you can also use other screens and sizes and for some you should find housings on thingiverse. I just had some trouble trying it with a 3.5″ touchscreen form KUMAN since the driver was somehow stopped my PiCamera from working.
-- Raspberry pi camera (I used a fisheye one from Amazon) you will need to also by a longer camera cable approx. 30-100cm, depending on where you want to mount your camera and you raspberry pi. Depending on your camera type you will already find some printable mounts fitting on a 20x20 extrusion (e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:434600 , https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2804612 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3565707
-- USB LED strip (e.g. 2m non remote from AliExpress) I just put the strip in the slot of the extrusions.
Octoprint configuration
I uploaded my octoprint configuration, so you just have to use the octoprint setting Backup & Restore to get all my add-ons and commands for the SK-Go². Since I am also running a Anet A8, Geeetech A10M and a Creality CR10sPRO you will also find some commands for those printers. Just delete the commands in the octoprint settings by configuring the Terminal Commands Extended plugin.
Dual Z-Axis Setup incl. Marlin 2.0.x for SKR 1.4 Turbo and S42B closed loop steppers
I decided to further upgrade my printer. You can find the details at my new thing :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631780
Updates:
1.
I did some tuning the
Configuration.h
Configuration_adv.h
files, adjusting the bed position and size to my assembly. I also adjusted the filament preheat settings and some minor stuff. Again all the changes are flagged with “// upgrade_set:”.
2.
I added some commands to octoprint Terminal Commands Extended in order to follow the UBL procedure described by Chris Riley’s YouTube tutorial for UBL.
3.
I added some tiny clips which will hold the M3 nuts of the fanduct in place. (while tuning the hotend I had to reassemble the extruder some times and every time the two M3 nuts were a pain to hold in place for assembly) The clips will go on the lower spacers of the carriage.
4.
I create some gauges to help assembly the z-axis. You will also find the FreeCAD model if you have to adjust the tolerances for yourself.
5.
I tuned the reverse bowden setup. The SK-Go2_Filament_Guide.stl will prevent the filament from getting tangled around the filament holder deluxe. The SK-Go2_Reverse_Bowden_Extruder_Bracket.stl will allow you to take away the bending from the PTFE tube fitting at the BMG extruder. Since I had to replace the original, stiff reverse bowden tube with a standard PTFE tube to feed TPU (it would just not go through) I experienced a lot of bending due to the softness of my tube, so I did the SK-Go2_PTFE_Tube_antibend_50mm.stl and SK-Go2_PTFE_Tube_antibend_100mm.stl clips. Just put them around the tube where there should be no bending.
6.
Due to feedback I remoddled the z-axis assembly gauges (increased the hole size to improve the tolerances). I also included the step files for the gauges so you can tune it if you still have issues with the size of the holes.