Thingiverse
Robo3D R1 Heatbed cable upgrade by PD5DJ
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
I'm using the Robo3D R1 a couple of months now, and made 200+ prints so far working fine, until the bed temperature readout started to fail and showed 0 degrees.
While investigating this, I noticed Robo3D used a very crappy stiff grey cable, Totally not designed for bending all the time..
Also the cable was directly glued with silicone to the Glass bed.
I removed the cable and silicone.
Since I use the printer 100% of the time for postproduction I could not wait for a decent cableguide. So I had to fix it with the parts I had laying around at that moment.
First thing my eye fel on was the Y Idler block. Secured with 1 M4 screw.
I decided to use the unused idler hole on the other side to fix a cable guide, and make a cable mesh clamp secured on the stepper plate.
I also moved the Y Endstop, just to clear up the space for the cable mesh to run freely.
For the bed wires I used silicone wire that is used in the RC scene,
That is made to flex arround.
VIDEO of the modification: http://youtu.be/v9JPC_EkF2Y
What do you need:
These printed parts.. prefer ABS
Cable Mesh arround 6-7mm dia.
Connector for connecting the bed wires (heater + thermistor) to the cable. (or just solder straight on).
I Used Multiplex connectors, they can handle a max load of 35amps cont. and has some extra pins for the thermistor.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVe5srJrDmo
Some 14awg silcone wire (got mine from hobbyking)
Some 22awg like wire for the thermistor
While investigating this, I noticed Robo3D used a very crappy stiff grey cable, Totally not designed for bending all the time..
Also the cable was directly glued with silicone to the Glass bed.
I removed the cable and silicone.
Since I use the printer 100% of the time for postproduction I could not wait for a decent cableguide. So I had to fix it with the parts I had laying around at that moment.
First thing my eye fel on was the Y Idler block. Secured with 1 M4 screw.
I decided to use the unused idler hole on the other side to fix a cable guide, and make a cable mesh clamp secured on the stepper plate.
I also moved the Y Endstop, just to clear up the space for the cable mesh to run freely.
For the bed wires I used silicone wire that is used in the RC scene,
That is made to flex arround.
VIDEO of the modification: http://youtu.be/v9JPC_EkF2Y
What do you need:
These printed parts.. prefer ABS
Cable Mesh arround 6-7mm dia.
Connector for connecting the bed wires (heater + thermistor) to the cable. (or just solder straight on).
I Used Multiplex connectors, they can handle a max load of 35amps cont. and has some extra pins for the thermistor.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVe5srJrDmo
Some 14awg silcone wire (got mine from hobbyking)
Some 22awg like wire for the thermistor
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