Ring Lamp Dual V2 (Customizable) by geit_de

Last crawled date: 2 years, 11 months ago

A little ring lamp with 330mm or 200mm diameter. You need a printer with around 220x220mm build plate to be able
Here is a link were you can see the new version in action. The mode running is "Race".Ring Lamp V2 Race mode
Key Features:
When designing this I had some key features in mind:
° simple and clean print
° avoid the led strips glue tape on the back at all cost.
° add a simple compartment for the electronics.
° wire management
° easy to print.
° no flimsy pegs to mount, which fail printing or break away later on.
Requirements:
1x 5V power supply
1x Power Connector
1x Switch
1x LED strip. (60 pixel/m or more)
WARNING! You need a LED strip without a rubber dome. Just the plain flexible PCB with the LEDs and resistors soldered on.
I used a 60 pixel/mm strip and ended up using 118 LEDs (58/60) in total for the big version and 70 LEDs (34/36) for the smaller version. You can reduce the number of LEDs for the outer rings by two LEDs as they mostly get covered by the socket anyway.
Printing:
You need to print a the socket, the lid and four ring pieces. One of the ring segments has an opening for the wiring. The other file marked with 3x need to be printed three times.
Make sure you pick the matching files for the radius. The socket for the 100mm (R100) ring will not fit the 165mm (R165) radius sized ring and vice versa.
Another important thing: Use a raft. Yes, rafts take a while to print and eat a lot of plastic as well, but so do the ring segments and one single fail or a warped and thereby unusable ring segment wastes even more plastic. Especially when having issues with temperatures in the print bed corners, a raft saves filament and not the opposite. So adding one hour per ring segment isn't that bad compared to a total fail after 3 hours of printing. Better get it done right the first time, instead of failing several times first. Bonus effect: The ring will look more or less the same on both sides, which is great.
Build process:
Using a little glue the segments are quick attached together. When printing the ring segment using ABS you can use acetone as glue to weld the sections together.
Before gluing the bottom ring opening together, slide in the LED strip into the ring section. It is easier to solder the wires before sliding them in. The data direction of both strips should be different. So if the inner strip has the wires to the left, the right one needs them to the right. That way the effects will mix perfectly.
Also make sure to glue the side with the opening last, as this is the section where the LED strips start and end. A PCB only LED strip is required. Strips with a defusing rubber dome cover, will not work. There is an opening in the ring socket. Just add a little glue and align the wire guide opening before placing the ring into the slot of the base.
Slide in the switch and glue in the power connector, connect the ESP32 and done. This is just basic stuff. 5V to 5V, GND to GND and the inner ring light data line to pin G23 of the ESP. The outer rings LED strip data line needs to be connected to pin G22.
You can use any kind of software to drive the ring lamps LED strip. Even use an Arduino and some example code.
There is an archive containing the source code included. Please check the read me file for further details.
I made a video to show the build process more or less in detail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0Ccoee1Y5A
Language is German, so be warned. :D The video is also for the revision 1 of the ring, but beside minor changes the assembly is mainly the same.
Current Features:
° web interface
° OTA update support
° flash fs settings support
° LED color and temperature correction
° 12 effects (static, rainbow, fire place, RGB fader, ...)
° optional sound support (hour/30 min gong) (requires DFPlayer sound module)
° timed power mode: The ring lamp turns on and off at a specific hours.
° timed dimming mode: The ring lamp changes brightness at specific hours.
° timed sound mode: The ring lamp changes volume at specific times.
° Full fledged Alexa support.
° Optional button support for quick on/off/audio switch.
Customize:
To customize the ring you need at least FreeCAD 0.19.1 or up. The model is fully parametric and you should be able to modify stuff like the size of the opening for the switch by just tweaking the spreadsheet. Of course this also works for all other dimensions.
Parts:
I changed the default design to use a standard toggle switch which can be found on coffee makers.
For the power inlet I used a power jack adapter You find them on internet routers, USB hubs, scanners and other low power devices.
I usually salvage these parts before throwing old hardware away, so I have a bunch of them. The power connector is not optimal, but looks nice, when glued into the base. As said the model is customizable, so you can use what ever you have at hand.
If you want to use something different, just change the width and height values inside the spreadsheet.
Updates:
11.06.2021:
° RingLamp-Quarter_R165_Dual3x.obj was wrong. Thanks to BlackOmega368 for reporting this.
° Added additional sockets without the switch pocket.
° Released Firmware V1.29
12.06.2021
° RingLamp-Quarter_R100_Dual1x.obj needed a bigger cable guide opening.
Final Words:
If there are any questions feel free to write a comment. Please post a make, so people can see my model really works and I get positive feedback in the same process, too.
Currently the software is missing. I will release an update shortly. You can use the software version from V1, but it of course will only drive the inner LED strip. In the future the same firmware will be suitable for both version.