Thingiverse
Replicator 2/2X DuetWifi Upgrade by IdefixRC
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
This is part 1 of the Replicator 2/2X DuetWifi Upgrade series.
Part 2,3 and 4 can be found here:
Part 1: DuetWifi Installation and PanelDue Mount (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2428995)
Part 2: Mini Differential IR Probe mount for Replicator 2X (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2475179)
Part 3: DuetWifi Configuration files for Replicator 2X (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2475257)
Part 4: Simplify3D Slicer Configuration for the Replicator 2X (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476695)
Part 5: Endstop adapter for inductive z probe intsead of the IR probe (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2954398)
My Makerbot Replicators 2x has served me well for many many years. Finally something broke down and it started to reset itself mid print. As replacing all the cables in the machine did not fix the problem I suspected a mainboard or PSU problem. Long story short: it was time for an upgrade.
The new Replicator 2X now runs a Duetwifi board with reprap firmware, utilizes a IR sensor to measure the bed height and provide mesh bed leveling and displays all the data on a 5'' color touch screen mounted at the same place the old Makerbot display was positioned.
What do you need for the conversion?
1x Duetwifi Mainboard - http://www.reprap.me/duetwifi-electronics-board.html
1x PanelDue 5'' Display - http://www.reprap.me/paneldue-with-5-screen-for-duetwifi.html
2x M3 Thermistor - http://www.reprap.me/m3-modular-screw-on-stud-thermistor-hot-end-screw-type-thermistors-for-3d-printer.html
1x 24V PSU - http://www.reprap.me/power-supply-24v-15a.html
connectors or cables in case you want to keep your Replicator 2/2x stock cable set for the future.
Connection:
Extruder heaters, fans, extruder thermostor, heated bed and bed thermistor connection is straight forward
Steppers connection is straight forward as well. Simply connect the wires to the board in the same order as you see them on the stepper motor - minus the gap between the pins)
Endstop connection is done by combining the center 2 pins (these are the ground pins) from the Makerbot endstops to the gnd pin on the Duetwifi 3pin connector. signal and VCC according to the markings on the endstop and duetwifi mainboard
Now you can drive the Zaxis homing either with the stock endstop or use a probe sensor such as the IR probe for duetwifi by DC42 (http://www.reprap.me/ir-probe-for-duetwifi.html)
I mounted the board with stand-off to the bottom of the printer in-between the stock makerbot standoffs.4 holes are required in the bottom of the printer for that (M3). I also mounted the PSU beside it at the bottom to get a nice compact installation. There is enough space between PSU and bottom of the printer to allow the cooling fan to ventilate the PSU
You can even hook the LED up to a spare fan connector on the board (plus minus leads only) for it to shine red while in operation.
Last remove the old Display and mount the PanelDue.
The attached STL is a modification of the enclosure made by DC42. It has a few slots to allow you to store SD cards (if you want to use the SD Card slot in the paneldue, you need to purchase a 10pin ribbon cable to hock it up to the mainboard).
Install the panel and mount the enclosure to the front using M3 screws (Countersink recommended)
Finally configure your printer with the reprap configurator.
Please visit Part 2 for the IR Sensor mount and Part 3 for the Duetwifi configuration files (dual extruder).
Enjoy your new, wifi connected, Replicator printer :-)
Part 2,3 and 4 can be found here:
Part 1: DuetWifi Installation and PanelDue Mount (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2428995)
Part 2: Mini Differential IR Probe mount for Replicator 2X (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2475179)
Part 3: DuetWifi Configuration files for Replicator 2X (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2475257)
Part 4: Simplify3D Slicer Configuration for the Replicator 2X (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476695)
Part 5: Endstop adapter for inductive z probe intsead of the IR probe (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2954398)
My Makerbot Replicators 2x has served me well for many many years. Finally something broke down and it started to reset itself mid print. As replacing all the cables in the machine did not fix the problem I suspected a mainboard or PSU problem. Long story short: it was time for an upgrade.
The new Replicator 2X now runs a Duetwifi board with reprap firmware, utilizes a IR sensor to measure the bed height and provide mesh bed leveling and displays all the data on a 5'' color touch screen mounted at the same place the old Makerbot display was positioned.
What do you need for the conversion?
1x Duetwifi Mainboard - http://www.reprap.me/duetwifi-electronics-board.html
1x PanelDue 5'' Display - http://www.reprap.me/paneldue-with-5-screen-for-duetwifi.html
2x M3 Thermistor - http://www.reprap.me/m3-modular-screw-on-stud-thermistor-hot-end-screw-type-thermistors-for-3d-printer.html
1x 24V PSU - http://www.reprap.me/power-supply-24v-15a.html
connectors or cables in case you want to keep your Replicator 2/2x stock cable set for the future.
Connection:
Extruder heaters, fans, extruder thermostor, heated bed and bed thermistor connection is straight forward
Steppers connection is straight forward as well. Simply connect the wires to the board in the same order as you see them on the stepper motor - minus the gap between the pins)
Endstop connection is done by combining the center 2 pins (these are the ground pins) from the Makerbot endstops to the gnd pin on the Duetwifi 3pin connector. signal and VCC according to the markings on the endstop and duetwifi mainboard
Now you can drive the Zaxis homing either with the stock endstop or use a probe sensor such as the IR probe for duetwifi by DC42 (http://www.reprap.me/ir-probe-for-duetwifi.html)
I mounted the board with stand-off to the bottom of the printer in-between the stock makerbot standoffs.4 holes are required in the bottom of the printer for that (M3). I also mounted the PSU beside it at the bottom to get a nice compact installation. There is enough space between PSU and bottom of the printer to allow the cooling fan to ventilate the PSU
You can even hook the LED up to a spare fan connector on the board (plus minus leads only) for it to shine red while in operation.
Last remove the old Display and mount the PanelDue.
The attached STL is a modification of the enclosure made by DC42. It has a few slots to allow you to store SD cards (if you want to use the SD Card slot in the paneldue, you need to purchase a 10pin ribbon cable to hock it up to the mainboard).
Install the panel and mount the enclosure to the front using M3 screws (Countersink recommended)
Finally configure your printer with the reprap configurator.
Please visit Part 2 for the IR Sensor mount and Part 3 for the Duetwifi configuration files (dual extruder).
Enjoy your new, wifi connected, Replicator printer :-)
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