Thingiverse
Replacement connectors for Toastmaster Knife Model 6102 V2 by makeafix
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 8 months ago
My Toastmaster Model 6102 Electric Knife broke its knife connector - the plastic part that connects the knife blade to the metal crankshaft. To repair it, I needed a replacement part - and this is a replica/improved 3d model of the broken part. Note that there are two of these per unit - that's mostly if not totally a mirror image of the other - one each for the two reciprocating blades.
This is my second design (I didn't post my first one because it has too many caveats) and now after more revisions as I learn more about it, it's gotten better. Use the old metal wire spring and metal blade lock from the old, broken connector for the complete unit.
I've only tested the "starboard" tmr.stl (right hand side with knife blades pointing away from you) connector. The "port" tml.stl (left side with knife blade pointing away) connector appears to be a mirror image of this, but I did not verify it, please let me know if you try the "port" side connector.
I uploaded a better and finalized V2 of the connector and is much better than the initial version, and I'm using in my knife now. The blade is slightly misaligned with the originals but it should still work. Replacing both pieces should align the pair :).
This 3d printed design has internal bridges and overhangs. It may well be stronger than the original as there's more plastic holding the crank side to the blade side together unlike the many tiny weak spots in the original. This is because the original needs voids to allow for rapid injection molding. Making the design injection moldable would weaken it and that's why mine broke in the first place.
I may continue to make improvements to it, but for now this might be helpful for someone to fix their Toastmaster Model 6102 electric knife.
Make sure you read the post-printing section before you can slice bread (instead of just STL files) once more!
Note - to open your Toastmaster 6102 knife, you need to pull out the three plastic screw covers. Two of the screws underneath are Phillips. The third one is a "spanner" tamper resistant screw.
This is my second design (I didn't post my first one because it has too many caveats) and now after more revisions as I learn more about it, it's gotten better. Use the old metal wire spring and metal blade lock from the old, broken connector for the complete unit.
I've only tested the "starboard" tmr.stl (right hand side with knife blades pointing away from you) connector. The "port" tml.stl (left side with knife blade pointing away) connector appears to be a mirror image of this, but I did not verify it, please let me know if you try the "port" side connector.
I uploaded a better and finalized V2 of the connector and is much better than the initial version, and I'm using in my knife now. The blade is slightly misaligned with the originals but it should still work. Replacing both pieces should align the pair :).
This 3d printed design has internal bridges and overhangs. It may well be stronger than the original as there's more plastic holding the crank side to the blade side together unlike the many tiny weak spots in the original. This is because the original needs voids to allow for rapid injection molding. Making the design injection moldable would weaken it and that's why mine broke in the first place.
I may continue to make improvements to it, but for now this might be helpful for someone to fix their Toastmaster Model 6102 electric knife.
Make sure you read the post-printing section before you can slice bread (instead of just STL files) once more!
Note - to open your Toastmaster 6102 knife, you need to pull out the three plastic screw covers. Two of the screws underneath are Phillips. The third one is a "spanner" tamper resistant screw.