Thingiverse
Reinforcement brackets for Creality CR-10 / CR-10S / Mini by Ludomante
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
ENGLISH
I had been thinking about doing Z-axis reinforcements for my Creality CR-10S printer for a while, but I could not find anything that would work for my hotend group. The problem was of course the height that I could have missed because the changes made have greatly increased its size (MicroSwiss, BLTouch, fangs). So I designed the whole thing with Autodesk Fusion 360 in order to still have the maximum travel on the Z axis available on the machine and with the fewest possible number of pieces. The material I used for printing is the Sunlu PET-G. I love this material! I printed it at 240 ° C with a bed at 60 ° C and a 50% fan. However, these brackets can also be made with PLA or ABS. All you need is described below:
Filament (of course!)
2 threaded bars diameter 8 mm. and 690 mm. in length (on the market you can find them from 1 meter and then equip yourself with a hacksaw to cut them)
8 M8 nuts and 8 washers
4 M5 Allen screws 60 mm long (with the head) to replace those already installed on the machine
2x605 mm. of flexible tube 10x1 RILSAN PA11 DIN 73378/74324 PHL of the color you like best to coat the threaded rods (optional).
That's all!
For the two upper brackets make sure you have a correct STEP / MM ratio. The dovetail joints must be very precise if you want them to stay still. If you find it hard to get into the throat, do not be afraid! With a small file or a cutter (careful not to cut yourself!) You can correct any smudging.
Some may say that these brackets are cumbersome, especially in front, but I did so because in this way they go to protect the entire bed when the Y axis is at its maximum excursion. In addition, they leave me plenty of space to be able to conveniently remove my prints.
If you like it and build it, thank you for your photos and your comments.
ITALIANO
Da un po' di tempo pensavo di fare dei rinforzi per l'asse Z della mia stampante Creality CR-10S ma non riuscivo a trovare qualcosa che potesse andare bene per il mio gruppo hotend. Il problema era naturalmente l'altezza che avrei potuto perdere visto che le modifiche fatte hanno notevolmente aumentato il suo ingombro (MicroSwiss, BLTouch, fangs). Ho quindi progettato il tutto con Autodesk Fusion 360 in modo da avere ancora il massimo della corsa sull'asse Z disponibile sulla macchina e con il minor numero di pezzi possibile. Il materiale che ho usato per la stampa è il PET-G della Sunlu. Adoro questo materiale! L'ho stampato a 240 °C con bed a 60°C e ventola al 50%. Comunque è possibile realizzare queste staffe anche con PLA o ABS. Tutto quello che vi serve è descritto qui sotto:
Filamento (ovviamente!)
2 barre filettate diametro 8 mm. e 690 mm. di lunghezza (in commercio le trovate da 1 metro e quindi munitevi di un seghetto per tagliarle)
8 dadi M8 e 8 rondelle
4 viti a brugola M5 lunghe 60 mm. (compresa la testa) da sostituire a quelle già montate sulla macchina
2x605 mm. di tubicino flessibile 10x1 RILSAN PA11 DIN 73378/74324 PHL del colore che vi piace di più per rivestire le barre filettate (opzionale).
Questo è tutto!
Per quanto riguarda le due staffe superiori assicuratevi di avere un corretto rapporto STEP/MM. Gli incastri a coda di rondine devono essere molto precisi se volete che stiano ben fermi. Se vi dovesse capitare che faticano ad entrare nella gola non vi spaventate! Con una piccola lima o con un cutter (attenti a non tagliarvi!) potete correggere eventuali sbavature.
Qualcuno potrà dire che queste staffe sono ingombranti, soprattutto davanti, ma le ho fatte così perchè in questo modo vanno a proteggere l'intero piatto quando l'asse Y è al massimo della sua escursione. Inoltre mi lasciano molto spazio per poter staccare con comodità le mie stampe.
Se vi piace e lo costruite, vi ringrazio per le vostre foto e i vostri commenti.
I had been thinking about doing Z-axis reinforcements for my Creality CR-10S printer for a while, but I could not find anything that would work for my hotend group. The problem was of course the height that I could have missed because the changes made have greatly increased its size (MicroSwiss, BLTouch, fangs). So I designed the whole thing with Autodesk Fusion 360 in order to still have the maximum travel on the Z axis available on the machine and with the fewest possible number of pieces. The material I used for printing is the Sunlu PET-G. I love this material! I printed it at 240 ° C with a bed at 60 ° C and a 50% fan. However, these brackets can also be made with PLA or ABS. All you need is described below:
Filament (of course!)
2 threaded bars diameter 8 mm. and 690 mm. in length (on the market you can find them from 1 meter and then equip yourself with a hacksaw to cut them)
8 M8 nuts and 8 washers
4 M5 Allen screws 60 mm long (with the head) to replace those already installed on the machine
2x605 mm. of flexible tube 10x1 RILSAN PA11 DIN 73378/74324 PHL of the color you like best to coat the threaded rods (optional).
That's all!
For the two upper brackets make sure you have a correct STEP / MM ratio. The dovetail joints must be very precise if you want them to stay still. If you find it hard to get into the throat, do not be afraid! With a small file or a cutter (careful not to cut yourself!) You can correct any smudging.
Some may say that these brackets are cumbersome, especially in front, but I did so because in this way they go to protect the entire bed when the Y axis is at its maximum excursion. In addition, they leave me plenty of space to be able to conveniently remove my prints.
If you like it and build it, thank you for your photos and your comments.
ITALIANO
Da un po' di tempo pensavo di fare dei rinforzi per l'asse Z della mia stampante Creality CR-10S ma non riuscivo a trovare qualcosa che potesse andare bene per il mio gruppo hotend. Il problema era naturalmente l'altezza che avrei potuto perdere visto che le modifiche fatte hanno notevolmente aumentato il suo ingombro (MicroSwiss, BLTouch, fangs). Ho quindi progettato il tutto con Autodesk Fusion 360 in modo da avere ancora il massimo della corsa sull'asse Z disponibile sulla macchina e con il minor numero di pezzi possibile. Il materiale che ho usato per la stampa è il PET-G della Sunlu. Adoro questo materiale! L'ho stampato a 240 °C con bed a 60°C e ventola al 50%. Comunque è possibile realizzare queste staffe anche con PLA o ABS. Tutto quello che vi serve è descritto qui sotto:
Filamento (ovviamente!)
2 barre filettate diametro 8 mm. e 690 mm. di lunghezza (in commercio le trovate da 1 metro e quindi munitevi di un seghetto per tagliarle)
8 dadi M8 e 8 rondelle
4 viti a brugola M5 lunghe 60 mm. (compresa la testa) da sostituire a quelle già montate sulla macchina
2x605 mm. di tubicino flessibile 10x1 RILSAN PA11 DIN 73378/74324 PHL del colore che vi piace di più per rivestire le barre filettate (opzionale).
Questo è tutto!
Per quanto riguarda le due staffe superiori assicuratevi di avere un corretto rapporto STEP/MM. Gli incastri a coda di rondine devono essere molto precisi se volete che stiano ben fermi. Se vi dovesse capitare che faticano ad entrare nella gola non vi spaventate! Con una piccola lima o con un cutter (attenti a non tagliarvi!) potete correggere eventuali sbavature.
Qualcuno potrà dire che queste staffe sono ingombranti, soprattutto davanti, ma le ho fatte così perchè in questo modo vanno a proteggere l'intero piatto quando l'asse Y è al massimo della sua escursione. Inoltre mi lasciano molto spazio per poter staccare con comodità le mie stampe.
Se vi piace e lo costruite, vi ringrazio per le vostre foto e i vostri commenti.
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