PrusaSlicer configuration for FlashForge Creator Pro (Slic3r) by DrLex

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

This will no longer be updated.Go to my website for the latest version and instructions. If you already installed this, you can go directly to the GitHub repository for the newest files.
Old description below.
These are my PrusaSlicer settings for the FlashForge Creator Pro (or similar printers). I created a Thing for these files because this allows Thingiverse users to click the ‘Watch’ button to be notified of updates. For really important updates I'll add a comment so you immediately know what has changed.
Also included is the make_fcp_x3g script that invokes the GPX program with the correct parameters and performs some other magic.
The configs and the scripts are maintained in this GitHub repository. You can see the change history there, or submit your own changes through a pull request. Please read all documentation before filing an issue.
I will from now on only support PrusaSlicer, the Prusa3D fork of Slic3r because keeping the configs compatible with both this edition and the regular Slic3r is a hassle. It is likely the configs will still work with the latter, but I give no guarantees.
There is also a separate Thing for the G-code snippets, so I can update them separately and you don't need to reimport everything if only the G-code was changed.
As stated in my article, these configs are a sensible starting point. You can use them as-is for many objects but for specific prints you will need to fiddle with certain parameters. The things I change most often are top/bottom layers, infill ratio and pattern, number of perimeters, brim, and ‘infill only where needed’ or not. Obviously sometimes supports need to be enabled. For some prints you may need to make pretty drastic changes.
Be careful with the temperatures in the filament presets! Most likely you will need to reduce temperatures slightly because I tweaked them on a Micro Swiss all-metal hot-end with glass bed + hairspray and hardened steel nozzle, and this setup requires higher temperatures than the stock hot-ends. The temperatures for PLA and ABS are safe, but especially the temperatures for PETG, flexible filaments, and obviously polycarbonate are well above the 240°C limit for the stock hot-ends with their teflon liners. You should never exceed 240°C for longer than a few minutes if you have not upgraded your hot-ends to all-metal. For PETG you should be able to get decent results at 240°C but I do recommend an all-metal hot-end with a pointy nozzle and higher temperatures to obtain good results with PETG.
 
Installing (in a nutshell)
You should definitely read the webpage with detailed instructions. Some changes must be made to the config and the make_fcp_x3g script before they can be used. You should at the least read this section of the page to get things working. The following is just a quick reminder for those who have done it before.
There are two variations on the config bundle: most likely you will need the regular one. The other one with ‘MVF’ in its name is only to be used if you have upgraded your printer with the MightyVariableFan system.
make_fcp_x3g is a bash script that will work as-is in Linux and Mac OS X. You can also use it with WSL in the latest Windows releases (Windows 10 version 1803 or newer) by creating a BAT file: follow the instructions on GitHub.
If you open PrusaSlicer for the first time, try to bypass its config wizard. The way to do this seems to change with every release. If the wizard did make any Print, Filament, or Printer settings, delete them before loading the config bundle.
When importing the .ini bundle, PrusaSlicer will overwrite existing configs with the same names but other ones will be left untouched. If you have nothing custom, it is better to first wipe everything before importing so you don't accumulate old cruft. If you make modifications to a config and you want to preserve them, save it as a new config with a unique name to prevent it from being overwritten in a future update.
If you are updating existing configs, you still need to reset the post-processing script path in each Print Settings profile. See the webpage for more details.
You should calibrate your home offsets to be able to use the entire surface of the print bed. In a nutshell, make sure that the initial priming extrusion is at exactly 3 mm of the front edge of the bed. For more details, see my FFCP hints webpage.
 
Just to have an actual 3D model attached to this Thing, I included my favourite variation on the boring 20 mm calibration cube which is usually the very first thing I print when testing a new filament.