Power Rangers Zeo Pyramidas Figure by Imamakeathing

Last crawled date: 2 years, 10 months ago

Finally got around to revamping and improving my Pyramidas Figure. The deluxe toy from the 90s is too huge for a regular shelf, and there's a 6 inch figure, but it's rare and expensive for what it is. My figure is scaled to be around 7-8 inches tall, and can transform as well! If you have any minipla models or any of the 6" zord action figures from back in the day in your power ranger collection, it is about 2 inches or so taller than those, which is fitting for the original zord's scale.
Random aside, did anyone else ever notice that the name of this zord is a combination of Pyramid, and Midas, the king with the golden touch? 20 years and I just realized that. Bonus points that the gold ranger in the Japanese version of the show (Ohranger) was called the Kingranger.
If you've seen the original verison of this, you know it was more of a proof of concept than a finished design. It's still a partsformer (you have to take it apart to transform it), but the feet are much better and actually support the figure without needing to be glued in to one position. I've also included a baseplate that is more or less optional, but is helpful for being able to pick it up without leaving the arms/hands/leg portions on the shelf. I've also tweaked the flip-down peak, which was very fragile originally.
Parts are labelled with my recommended colors, but feel free to experiment as you see fit. The Gold I used in the pictures is CC3d Silk Gold, beautiful stuff that looks better in person than it does in pictures.
Assembly Instructions: You will need to glue some parts together
-- LEGS: Using the main legs part (GLD 08) and legs backplate (GLD 09). Just a dab of superglue on the backplate pegs to hold them onto the main portion. I recommend putting the feet in while gluing to make sure there is proper room for them (if the glue dries and the opening is too small, you're stuck).
-- PEAK: Peak Pin (GLD 11), Pin Holders (GLD 12 and GLD 13), Peak (GLD 14), and Top Half (GLD 02). Glue the two pin holders to the top half (the missing edge). Put a small dab of superglue in the captive pin holder (the one that doesn't have an opening to the outside edge). Put the peak in place, then put the pin through all three rings. The drop of superglue in the captive peak holder should hold the pin still, while the peak can rotate around the pin. Don't forget to insert the peak crest into the peak
-- HEAD: Head Base(BLK 05), Head Top (BLK 06), Face (svr 01), Head Crest (GLD 15). I included an optional all-in-one part if you don't want to do this (19), but it will require painting the face. To assemble this part, put a drop of glue in the head base, insert the face, put a drop of glue on top of that and on the head base rim around the back of the face, then put the head top on. Then, on the backside bottom edge of the head crest, put a bit of glue and squeeze it onto the protrusions above the face. Be careful of the angle, it should be vertical
--MAIN BODY: Main Body (01) and Top Half (02), and Chest Gem (23). Easy. Glue the top half onto the main body, and the gem onto the recessed square on the top half. Be mindful of the spacing around each part so it is symmetrical:
ASSEMBLING/FORMING THE PYRAMID:
-- Head: Make sure the head is upside the body and not sticking out. Take the "backpack" (I never came up with a good name for this part) and insert the two pegs into the locating sockets so that it covers up the head assembly, and the edge continues from the main body. CAUTION: With my print, these pegs were tight, and I worried about breaking them off when transforming. They should be a bit snug, but if you feel they are too snug then file, shave or sand them down slightly so they do not have too much friction. I used a nail file and then a pocket knife.
--Insert the feet block into the legs assembly, so that the feet are flush with the outside edge. The locating pegs on either side should be at the top, while the feet are at the bottom. Align the locating pegs on the legs with the farthest in slots on the bottom side of the main body. The feet/legs assembly will be flush with the bottom edge of the body. The head will be "captive" between the legs backplate and the body cavity- if you did not flip the head already, you will need to remove the legs to make it fit.
-- Attach the upper arms by their locating pegs to either side of the body. Attach the lower arms to the upper arms by the appropriate slots and locating pegs so that the arms are in the same orientation as the upper arms. The side with two locating grooves is the elbow, the side with one groove is the wrist. Make sure the fists are properly aligned as well.
-- Attach everything to the baseplate, the four pegs will line up with sockets on the underside of the legs. Flip the peak so it is standing up and you're done!
TRANSFORMING TO ROBOT:
-- Remove the legs, arms, backpack, and head assemblies.
-- Use one of the arms to punch out the feet if they do not slide out of the leg assembly easily. Flip the feet and insert the pegs on their back side into the front of the backplate, so they stick out from the leg assembly. Attach the leg assembly to the inside of the main body at the lowest locating sockets.
-- Take the lower arms off the upper arms and rotate them so they stick forward at 90 degree angles. You can swap lower arms between sides depending on what you think looks better. Re-attach to shoulder sockets
-- Flip the head and insert it back into its grooves so that it is visible. Attach the "backpack:" behind the head.
-- Align THE feet with the locating pegs on the baseplate, it will only use two and the other two will go behind the heels to stabilize the model. It should only attach to the baseplate in one way, so that its back is to the edge nearest the pegs. Flip the peak down so you can see the gem and you're done!