PiSec MKIII - Compact Edition by stmorgan

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Wonder when people will get tired of me changing my designs.
Printed out the body of MKII, and while the PiPlate, CamPlate and everything fit together fine with the POE adapter, pi, and camera installed, it was a little on the large side for my liking. So here's a compact edition. Went a different direction this time on the mount too.
Features:
► SMALLER.
► Hidden network/power cable (POE)
► Looks better IMO.
► Front begging for a logo.
► Entire body held together with four screws.
► Heat set inserts used in front case for durability.
► Full 360° rotation and full 90° tilt. Able to look anywhere in a hemisphere.
► Only 9 11 printed parts for camera and mount.
► Built in light dam to cut reflective glare, accepts 20mm ODx1mm Section O-ring.
► Accepts 3mm acrylic lens in front case, has oval O-Ring groove that should accept a 65mm ODx2mm Section O-ring.
You'll need 4x 3mm screws that measure 72-73mm from tip to underside of head to hold the body together, and 2x 3mm nuts and screws for the ball clamp. You'll also need network cable crimping ability as the holes aren't big enough for an RJ-45 to pass through. The holes in the mounting ring will need drilling to your liking. The pockets for the heat sets are 5mm diameter as this seems to be best with my printer in PLA. There's a small .2mm staging pocket to help hold the insert steady while heating. A 73mm screw will just barely protrude below the insert, a 72mm should be just about flush with the bottom of it. There's 2mm or so of freebore below the insert to account for screw length. There should be about 8mm clear between the LEDs and the USB ports of the Pi to allow for some small heatsinks, these do get warm on my Makerfocus IR cam.
3/14/18:

► Added a jig to cut long 3mm screws down to proper length, simply insert and cut the end off flush with the jig using a hacksaw.
► Forgot to add the clips that hold the Pi onto the PiPlate. Make that 11 printed parts, but they're pretty inconsequential to print.
► Added a mounting ring with holes premade to fit a 4" round electrical box. (3-12" centers for 6-32 oval head machine screws.)

3/15/18:

► The POE splitter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Active-PoE-Splitter-Power-Over-Ethernet-48V-to-5V-2-4A-Micro-USB-4-Raspberry-QH/292334777337?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
► The camera: http://a.co/5qq4F5M
► Screws I ordered, 80mm, need cutting down: https://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-M3-3-80mm-Round-Pan-Head-Phillips-Screws-304-Stainless-Steel-Machine-Screws/302237442873?hash=item465ec16339:m:mx6WLDv_UA4tFt-UxBnZHrQ
► Corrected O-Ring size. The proper size should be a 65mm OD x 2mm Section, not 1mm.
► Printed out the CamPlate and PiPlate, the two fit together fine, will assemble Pi and cam onto them this morning while the Front case half is printing and post pics.

3/16/18:

► Thinned the walls of the RearCase to 2mm, they were a little on the thick side. It matches the front now.
► Got distracted playing Minecraft while the front printed, don't have pics today. Everything seems to fit ok for now though.
► Looks like I had both O-rings wrong. The 65mm is 2mm section, the 20mm is 1mm section....
► I split the screw jig so it can be clamped (Lightly of course) in a vise and squeeze down to hold the screw.
► Rotated Clamp2 to what I think is the best orientation for printing. Supports in the ball socket would make it rougher than it should be.

3/17/18:

► Printed out Ball and Clamp1. These parts fit together beautifully with each other when pritned with 0.16mm layer height. Problems I ran into were the ball needed a raft under the supports since the whole thing basically sits on top of a support grid. The grid didn't have the surface area to stick down. The raft stuck to the feet a bit tight, that's my slicer settings though I imagine. Running a .2mm gap, I'll bump it to .28 or so. After seperation the feet seem a bit too large anyway. The clamp had 10mm hex pockets installed instead of 5.8mm that I've already determined to be a nice size for my 3mm nuts. I have no idea why I did that or how it got by me. Both of these parts printed fantastic as oriented. The ball needs a support grid and raft, but really it's only a few inches square, it's not that much plastic. The clamp printed standing vertically with supports over 50*, was one tiny little place that got a support pillar, and the inside of the holes, all came out fine except for my screwup with the pocket size.
► Uploaded corrected Ball and Clamp1 files. Shrunk the nut pockets in the clamp to a more reasonable size. Shrunk the diameter of the feet on the ball mount so they'll fit easier into the rear of the case.

3/20/18:

► Printed out nut, had to file ID to get a good fit onto Clamp1, increased bore size .3mm in STL, tight fit not needed here.
► Added 23mm screw jig for clamp screws. Regular 25mm would probably work fine too.
► Added Ball_TR file, intended for when you want to use 3mm threaded rod and nuts. This one has raised bosses for nuts, since the pockets on the normal version wouldn't allow them to be tightened.
► Added ScrewJig_TR file, used to trim threaded rod if you want to go this way. It should screw in until it bottoms out in the front case then assemble over rods and using Ball_TR it should be just enough protruding to use acorn nuts.

3/21/18:

► Modified Mounting rings, both versions have been changed to give 0.3mm more clearance around the boss on the bottom of the clamp. Was a little too tight to turn easily when I printed it out.

3/23/18:

► Modified MountRing-4RoundBox. Holes were too small, I was thinking normal mounting plate screws that are 6-32 but these are screws that go into the box itself, #8 or 4mm, so I made the holes 4.6mm with an 8mm large diameter on countersink. They should match most #8 or 4mm flat head screws well enough.