Overlord Pro - E3D V6 hotend mount v1 by bummster

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Here's my printed mounting kit for an E3D v6 hotend to an Overlord printer. Should work on the Overlord and Overlord Pro. Unfortunately, you will be required to source
2 3mm x 40mm bolts
2 3mm nylocks
4 3mm washers
All other hardware you can source from the existing hotend cage assembly.
Do take your time. Be sure to ask questions if you have them. Have fun tinkering.
I will probably make changes over time. At the moment, I'm not entirely happy with my layer cooling solution. I'm always messing with things. For the curious, I've printed mine at 1.2mm shells, 10% infill in esun PETG and grid supports. So far so good!
If you don't like my hotend fan shroud adapter, and honestly I kinda don't like it either, take a look at this one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:988310 I haven't figured out what variables to use, but its pretty nice!
The brave of you can try to mount the 40mm fan directly to the centering mount itself. I'm not entirely sure it's a good idea anymore. Hence the fan adapter. But it's there if you're willing to risk a clog for science. :)
I would not auto level with this mount. I haven't tried it. Honestly, I don't think you should try it either.
I printed the mount upright. Yeah, its not designed to be easy to print. That's the noob in me shining through. V2 will definitely be easier to print. Here's a timelapse of it being made. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Vx8JcYKlNY
Update 9/17/15
So a friend and I are on google hangouts just chillen, and he's all like "Dude, metrique?!"
And I'm all surly, "Yeah man! boltdepot.com! Tell em Danny sent you, they'll have like no idea who I am."
Next sentence, I swear, "Why so hard to print man, I mean seriously? Seriously."
And I'm all puffy, "Yo, if your printer is setup right, this is a piece of cake."
Silence. Because, we were typing not talking.
So, I made a modified version. The PCB nubs are removed and replaced with holes. The fan mounting holes are removed since they really aren't necessary. The holes to clamp the two halves together have been significantly enlarged. #6-32 machine screws should work just fine now. 1.75in long is preferred, 2in will work too, just cut off whatever is too exposed for your sensibilities. I enlarged the through holes to 4mm... #4's I think will work with the original mount, not sure though. Now you can print it upside down, and have a lot less, maybe no supports needed. Still printing this one to see how it goes.
Update 11/29/2016:
I used really really nice Shin Etsu based thermal paste on the heatbreak to heatsink threads initially. Worked great but eventually dried out and turned into powder. After some furious chat sessions with a friend, tried copper based anti-seize. Woah, way better. Be liberal but keep things clean. Copper anti-seize (Jet-Lube Kopr-Kote) won't dry out at the temps I'm using (265C), but it sure is messy.
The hear-say thinking goes, CPU based thermal paste over the long haul will dry out because it has a service temp rating that is quite small and maxes out usually around 100-300C. These temps typically aren't published either. Copper anti-seize is typically used on car brakes and has a published service rating of 1800F/980C. They tend to rival the best thermal pastes in terms of W/m-K, but more importantly fill the gaps better of the course threaded parts to promote heat exchange.
It's also $6 for 4oz of Kopr-Kote vs $8 for 3grams for AS-5. Use it on your hotend and your car projects!