MP Select Mini Rodus Maximus Bed Extension for MK2 MK3 heatbeds [V 1.5] by simkhovich 3d model
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MP Select Mini Rodus Maximus Bed Extension for MK2 MK3 heatbeds [V 1.5] by simkhovich

MP Select Mini Rodus Maximus Bed Extension for MK2 MK3 heatbeds [V 1.5] by simkhovich

by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
This is not a fully developed unit, only endeavor if you want to remix/build upon, there is a reason why rods are not popular
Hardware Prerequisites:
1x 10Pcs 250 x 3mm DIY Toy Model Drive Stainless Steel Connecting Rods $8.75- prime
Or any other 10 count 250mm+ 3mm rods
any 2 8mm 300mm rods
A longer G2 Belt of your Choice.
Essentially a must https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRCZKIX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
8x M3 square nuts
8x M3x14mm Socket Head Cap Screw (need right angle allen wrench)
2x M3 x 30 mm
2x M3 Nuts (ideally locking nuts)
Total: around $29.99
NOTE: Whatever heatbed you use it has to have holes that are spaced 209 mm apart, so any heatbed that claims to be 214mm should work
NOTE2: Make sure your power supply can support the new heatbed, i'm not sure if the new 7 Amp power adapter can
[Highly recommend]
Vice
Small Hammer
[Optional]
Metal idlers and teeth upgrade.
Taping oil.

3D printable Prerequisites:
[Highly recommend]
Variable z stop mod
MPSM Y Limit Switch Bracket
[based on need]
glass clamps for bed
Instrictions:
1) insert the M3 square nuts in to the clamps
2) make sure the tensioner and the belt clip fit in to one another as the tolerance is tight
3b) Now the holes as expected don't fit the tolerance and are too small, this is a good thing here as it's all held by friction, unfortunately 2.85mm drill bits are not that common so take the file that looks like an ice pic and heat it up with a lighter or stove and using a pair of pliers separate it from the fandle once hot, don't burn yourself, let cool and now you can toss this bad boy in a drill chuk and work all the holes where the rods go in a vice with the prices mounted in the position that will resist compression. DO NOT DRILL THE M3 screw holes. WARNING IT WILL GET HOT ENOUGH TO BURN YOU AND THE PLASTIC, use taping oil or wd40 or something like a glass of water to keep the file cool or it will help warp the parts in the vice.
4) start hammering the rods one at a time in to the pieces like a kebab (small hammer might be needed) starting with the X axis (the sides that have a 2 on top and 3 on bottom hole pattern) refer to image for how it should look and estimate the position of the 8mm rods for the clamps go slow and fix position constantly if you need to move something or remove a rod toss it in the drill Chuck and spin it out. There will be bending flexing and misalignment, hammer it all.
5) you should now have a set of 2 contraptions each held with 5 rods. space them so they fit the heatbed and measure the belt length needed with clips make sure to leave a bit of slack and cut the belt to length.
6) mount the other 10 rods to make the platform square (more or less refer to picture for overhang and orientation)
7) time to take out the old plate, unscrew carefully one by one the screws that hold down the heatbed careful not to lose the little spring tensioners, you will reuse them for the new bed,
8) wiring, i'm going to leave this up to you
Changelog
8/2/2018 - Major change to clamp and heatbed hole location, increase print area and screws are more accessible
8/1/2018 - Slight change rotated model to use less supports

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