Modular Electronics Enclosure by MyFunctionalDesigns

Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago

Final Validation Prints have Started
I am working on an enclosure to house my electronics. As I know things change, so I have gone for a very modular approach.
My plan is to house a DIN rail for mounting my power supplies (24V, 12V, and 5V) as well as relays to control certain items (Ex: mains powered bed).
During the design I have tried to keep everything as clean as possible, including hiding all screws from view. This makes some of the prints, such as the accent, a bit trickier, but I think it is worth it in the end.
The dimensions are 230 mm wide, 190 mm tall, and 290 mm deep. The screen is at a 35 degree angle to provide easy visibility.
For now I am adding the Fusion renderings as I am still working on making sure everything fits together. As each piece is completed the files will be added so this may look very incomplete for a while.
In the end to make it easier to do remixes or additional mounts, I will be providing both STL and Fusion 360 source files.
Screenshot Descriptions
The design you are looking at is almost complete as I am verifying joints and part fits for items that go in the initial panels. Most are still in the mail, so it is taking a while.
The rendering is 3 colors, with the body in black, the screen border in grey, and an accent color in blue. The case is designed for a 2-3 color look, although you can go hog wild when you print your version.
I have the new Big Tree Tech TFT70 on order, so this case will fit large amounts of stuff as you can see. The TFT70 is 200mm x 100mm.
The front has dual 80mm fans, and the top has room for 3 SD card extension mounts (Screen, Controller, and Pi). It also has a spot where I plan to put a switch to turn my LEDs on and off. Text is recessed .5mm with seperate bodies to allow dual color printing.
On the back panel I have placed GX16 connectors for most of the wiring. There is room for 3 USB ports (1 per component, Keystone Slot) and a hardwired network cable (Keystone Slot) for the Pi for those that prefer that over WiFi . There is also a standard power input and switch, along with a output for the mains powered bed controlled via a relay. A remix to put an XT-60 connector on the back would be very quick and simple, and I might have that as part of the base panels when I get everything ready.
Finally the inside view shows you the mounting rails for your internals, as well as holes in the bottom for securing additional items. The center rail is the perfect height for those that want to mount a DIN rail to mount items to.
General Design
I have used parameter based design as much as possible (mounts excluded as they are one-offs, usually only based on parameters for mount holes) to ensure that everything lines up correctly. Each panel is designed to be customized as needed, so you can make minor (or major) changes to fit your needs easily.
Remixing and Custom Mounts were the plan from the start, so once it is out, have at it.
Main components that should not require customization include:
Bottom Panel
Left Panel
Right Panel
Accent Border
Main components that may require customization include (ideas for custom items in sub lists):
Front Panel
Single or Dual Fans
Vents Only

Top Panel
Variable number of SD Card slots
Vents Only
LED Switch present

Screen Panel
Will require 2 panels per screen, one floating (what you see) and one back for mounting screen to

Rear Panel, Split into Left and Right sides (one for power, one for connections)
Power connectors (based upon your needs)
Control Wire Connectors
Fan Connectors
Lighting Connectors
Network Connections
USB Connections

Mains Power Cover Safety Item
A panel to cover up your 110/220v mains wiring so you don't accidentally touch it when opening your case.

Electronics Mounts
A new mount needs to be added for each piece of equipment that you want to add to the case.

Assembly Instructions
There are a few unique parts to this, so I will document how they are intended to go together with a complete parts list for the base case, along with a parts list for the components that I have chosen for my case.
Mount Rails
There are multiple mount rails available with 3 on both the left and right panel, as well as 3 in the bottom panel. Once final spacing is completed, I will list all the measurements here.
Tentative spacing is as follows:
Bottom/Base panel has holes that are 50mm on center (from wall to center, or center to center), 3 rows of 25 holes.
Sides are 75mm on center, with the first row being 17mm above the base panel. The bottom 2 rows have 25 holes, and the top one has 15.
Case Parts Requirements
Parts for Assembly:
28mm x 3mm piano wire, 8 pieces
Glue (optional, secure wire in sides)
M3 screw inserts, holes are sized for Ruthex threaded inserts
M3x8 screw, 5
M3x20 screw, 2
Parts for attaching Mounts:
M3 screw inserts, holes are sized for Ruthex threaded inserts
M3x8 screws
You can also use M3x10 screws along with some washers. This may provide a more secure mount as the washer spreads the load slightly against the material by having a larger area of contact.
Shopping List
Here are some parts that I have used in my designs. To prevent remixing, use parts that use the same mount patterns.
Chosen Electronics:
BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo
BTT TFT70
Initial Case
M3 Screw Inserts
DIN Rail
DIN mounted 12v Power for fans
2 BeQuiet 80mm PWM Pure Wings 2 Fans
Temperature based fan controller
7 GX16 Connectors, 4 Pin
GX16 Connector, 5 Pin for BL Touch
Power Switch
AC Supply Socket, Male
Supply Socket, Female for power to Bed
Supply Cable to Bed, one end cut and wired to bed.
2 USB Keystone for Screen + Controller
Keystone Cover (for Pi slots, future upgrade for me)
2 SD Card Extension for Screen + Controller
Rubber Feet
USB 90 degree turn for screen to access USB slot
XT 60 Socket (See Note 1)
a short USBB => USBA cable for the controller
A short USB3 A=>A cable for the screen
A switch for LED lights (TBD)
Wiring and sleeving for a new wire harness
Note 1: Prior to upgrading my power, I used the stock PS in its original location to feed power to my electronics via a 24V cable. This used an XT60 socket inbound to the controller. I then used the Supply Socket outward towards the heated bed which also provided an additional grounding point to the frame.
Mains Heated Bed / Power Upgrade (See Note 1):
DIN mounted 24v Power for Controller
24V Solid State Relay to control 220V, TBD
Silicone Bed Heater, TBD
Aluminum Bed, TBD
Note 1: I have not yet completed this upgrade, so the list may change.
To add a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint (See Note 1):
A Raspberry Pi
DIN mounted 5v Power, 3A or 6A (See Note 2)
USB Keystone
RJ45 Keystone for hard wired networking
SD Card Extension
A short USB3 A=>A cable
A short USBC cable to provide power to the Pi. Will cut and wired to the power supply.
A short network cable
Note 1: I have not yet completed this upgrade, so the list may change.
Note 2: Power supply based upon if you are driving LEDs on 5V or not
Print Settings
You know your printer best, so pick what you feel is right. That said, here are my general settings for prints. Certain parts may need unique orientations to fit on your print bed, which might also require different supports.
Slicer: Cura 4.6.1
Material: PLA
Infill: 20%
Supports: Tree
Bed Adhesion: Rafts as needed