Mini Drak Nose Camera Mount by billyd

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

This version splits the mount into a base and cover. The base is glued with goop to the mini drak after cutting off the nose. The cover screws to the base with 3x m2.5 screws (about 10-12mm long is plenty. The hex nuts are captured in the base and should be glued in place to they don't slide away from the hole. I use nylon screws and nuts to minimize weight. Rev B moves the location of the split closer to the rear of the aircraft allowing both cameras to be removed through the front when the cover is unbolted from the base. You no longer need a large hole behind the foxeer camera, just a tunnel for the camera cable into the bay.
This mount is designed for the foxeer 1177 with 2.5 or 2.1mm lens (or any narrower lens will work too) and the runcam2.
The reversed files switch the orientation of the cameras (from the original design shown in the photos Edit: First two photos show the reversed prints as of 4-21-17) and puts the runcam2 on the right side of the plane. This makes it possible to remove the runcam2 rear cover without removing the runcam2 from the mount since the rear cover will slide towards the center of the bay to unlock.
Update 4/4/2017 Added cover with top support hole for airspeed sensor. It's designed for the MFD airspeed sensor which is just a single small 2.5mm dia tube (the static port is uncovered inside the aircraft in the new MFD airspeed sensor). But I left enough room that this hole can be drilled out for any diameter pitot and plenty of space for it to protrude so the side holes remain uncovered and still be ahead of the cover for uninterrupted airflow.
Update 4-26-17 Added 1pc file back for those that don't mind cutting enough foam to remove the cameras through the bay instead of having the bolted on front cover.
Update 5-3-17 Added 1pc file with 18mm hole for FPV cams such as the runcam swift.
Installation:
The foam cut is 17mm forward of the leading edge of the center bay cover indentation. Or 7mm forward of the leading end of the top fiberglass spar grooves. Be sure to cut perpendicular to the seam in the side of the fuse top to bottom. And keep it square when looking from the top or your cameras will be looking left or right.
Then you'll have to hog out a big square all the way into the bay to provide clearance for the runcam2 best to use a flat razor for this and be sure to keep the 7 degree angle (by eye is good enough) You can also put a hole through the top of the bay lip (just under the cover) on the forward right side to access the runcam2 power button. You'll be able to figure the location when you have it assembled. Use the base print to act as a template for the runcam2 hole into the foam through to the bay and also to locate the camera cable tunnel for the foxeer.
You will want to put a small drop of goop or hot glue on the foxeer at the front to hold it to the base print prior to putting on the cover, since the foxeer could move backwards which would not be desired. A drop on each side flush with the face of the base print and just touching the camera body will be enough and easily removable if you have to take out the foxeer for some reason.
Update 04-14-2018 Added cover file with 18.4mm dia lens hole
Update 04-23-2018 Added cover and base file for split version of 1177 camera only, no HD. Note it's important to print base in orientation as saved with supports. You can clean up the supported area until the camera fits well. This way the seam will be cleaner.
Update 10-12-2018 Added 1pc version of 1177 camera only mount