Microswiss Direct-Drive Mosquito Mount and Shroud by susop

Last crawled date: 3 years, 4 months ago

Did you buy a Microswiss Direct Drive then decide to grab a Mosquito hot end just to find out you can't use both? Me too.
For using the BLTouch, you will need to print Main Mount Rear BLTouch, Mosquito Front End Top, Part Cooling Nozzle, Cooling Fan Mount. X-Axis Bracket. The BLTouch has a nozzle offset of x=30.75, y=17.35. The X-axis bracket isn't 100% necessary, but it fixes the misalignment created by the Microswiss Direct Drive as it doesn't hit the endstop until after it's supposed to.
If using a dial indicator instead of the BLTouch, you will need to exchange the Main Mount Rear BLTouch with Main Mount Rear Dial, then print the Dial Indicator Donut. The Dial I used was the Clockwise Tools DICR-0105. If you use a different dial, you can make your own, The top of the dial mount is 75.85mm from the nozzle tip.
For those curious on why I ditched the BLTouch for a dial indicator, I started getting the common sawtooth pattern error on my height map that ruined all accuracy, so I just levelled all 4 corners of the bed with the dial and locked all the bed adjustment knobs with jamnuts. I also swapped the bed springs with silicone compression cylinders.
For supplies you need a 40mm axial fan, a 5015 blower fan, an adapter to convert the Mosquito to an E3D mount, spare filament guide tube, and adjustable Z-axis endstop (for dial indicator variant).
I also used a nylon fabric sleeve like what Prusa installs on their printers. If you plan on routing your wiring differently, you'll need to move your x-axis endstop towards the hot end to ensure your hot end is centered.
Hardware: in addition to the included mosquito hot end, BLTouch, and CR-10 hardware, I also used 1ea M4x8mm screw, 2ea M5x20mm screws, 2x M3x20mm screws, 4ea M3x16mm screws, 1ea M3x6mm screw, 3ea M3 hex nuts, and 2ea M3 square nuts. I also recommend a nylon sleeve like Prusa uses, as well as small zipties.
The dial indicator donut uses an M3x16mm screw.
I had to use a drill to remove some metal from the E3D adapter (see picture). You can use a rounded file, but I just used a drill bit, and used my printed parts as drill guides. The mount screws will not want to go in if you don't remove material.
I recommend printing these parts with a high-temp filament. I used ASA and it's doing just fine. I cannot verify if PETG will hold up, but if you wrap your heat block with a thermal sock like I did, I'd imagine PETG would be fine.