Thingiverse
MakerSelect Wanhao Rear Plate with relay control by cd0156
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 1 month ago
This is a replacement contol box rear plate for a Maker Select. I have a Maker Select V2 and I have printed and test fit these on it. I am running Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi that is installed in the main housing of a custom created version of a PiClop scanner, but I wanted to be able to control some add ons I made for my printer without a bunch of ugly wires. This was designed to be able to mount a Siemon Cat6 keystone jack on the back of the control box, allowing you to use any ethernet patch cord to control a Sainsmart 4ch relay board (or similar device) with a nice clean look.
There are a few files included to allow you to modify as needed or create your own designs:
boardMounts2.stl: The mounting plate I made for inside the control box. THIS WILL REQUIRE DRILLING HOLES IN THE METAL HOUSING FOR 2 M3 SCREWS. The heads will be visible on top of the box. There are already two M5 screws there, and I used socket cap screws that matched and I think they look fine. This stl allows you to mount a Sainsmart 4ch realy and the MOSFET mod board cleanly inside.
MK2RearPanel.stl: This is the panel I chose to use and the ones featured in the pics. It allows for the original power plug/switch/fuse panel, original 40mm fan, and adds a hole for the jack.
MK2RearPanelDual.stl: Basically the same as before, but slightly rearranged to allow for a second 40mm fan.
MK2RearPanelBlank.stl: The Maker Select control box rear cover with NO cutouts to easily make your own design.
seimon_mount.stl: This is a mounting plate for another keystone jack on the other device. It includes a backplate for inside the other device enclosure and a front trim/mount that goes on the outside. My scanner body took 20 hours to print and I had not planned to add this at that time. I did not want to reprint it so this was my solution. It allows a not-so-pretty hole to be cut in your existing print or store bought enclosure and it will hide the nasty and look nice. You can use the backplate piece as a template for your hole.
seimon_jack.stl: The cut out for mounting a Seimon Cat6 keystone jack. I used the angle style because it was all I had on hand, but a straight one will look far nicer. You can use this file to boolean out holes in the included MK2RearPanelBlank.stl or in a design of your own. This was created from measurements of an actual Seimon faceplate. The important thing to remember is the larger face must remain at the 2mm thickness it currently is or the jack will not snap in. the smaller area is the actual jack opening. That can be made thicker as needed for your material, but keep in mind an angle jack will hit if you go any thicker than included.
40mm_fan_knockout.stl: Just as it says. You can use this to make a boolean to create a nice area to mount a 40mm fan including screw holes.
WIRING:
Ethernet wiring:
I punched a bit of cat 6 without the jacket (just the pairs) on the jacks. You can wire the jacks however you want as long as it matches on both ends. MAKE SURE YOU NEVER PLUG THIS INTO YOUR ROUTER, PC, OR OTHER ETHERNET DEVICE!! I used the following layout:
Orange/White: N/A - Will likely use for a pushbutton in the future.
Orange: 5vdc to Sainsmart from Pi
Blue/White: Sainsmart relay 1 trigger.
Blue: Sainsmart relay 2 trigger.
Green/White: Sainsmart relay 3 trigger.
Green: Sainsmart relay 4 trigger.
Brown/White: N/A - Will likely use for a pushbutton in the future.
Brown: Ground to Sainsmart from Pi
Relay Wiring:
R1 - Printer power. I used this relay to interrupt the AC line voltage into the power supply. Since the 5v feeding the relay comes from the pi in another enclosure with a different supply, you can turn power on/off to the printer remotely. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH AC POWER! THIS CAN KILL YOU OR DAMAGE YOUR EQUIPMENT.
R2 - Enclosure Lighting. I have 120vac LED rope lighting in my enclosure. I used the same AC feed I used for R1, then cut the female side of an extension cord and ran it out the back. I can control the enclosure lighting remotely as I like to leave it off unless needed to view the camera.
R3 - Extruder light. I created an LED strip mount for my extruder for extra light. Extremely useful in person, washes out my camera when viewing remotely so its nice to have the control.
R4 - Currently unused, but you can let your imagination go wild!
EDIT: I have found out that the switch on the side of the LCD on the Maker Select is a backlight toggle. When I get some time to play around I will post an update of how to do this. Depending whether a pwm signal dims it or not will change what I do. If dimming works I will likely use the two extra wires in the cat6 to make that happen. If it is not an option then I will likely use relay 4 to be able to toggle the backlight.
Software
I used the Octoprint plugin found here: https://github.com/vitormhenrique/OctoPrint-Enclosure
This was remixed from the Wanhao Duplicator I3 Controller replacement backplate by jamesarm97 that can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:853541
There are a few files included to allow you to modify as needed or create your own designs:
boardMounts2.stl: The mounting plate I made for inside the control box. THIS WILL REQUIRE DRILLING HOLES IN THE METAL HOUSING FOR 2 M3 SCREWS. The heads will be visible on top of the box. There are already two M5 screws there, and I used socket cap screws that matched and I think they look fine. This stl allows you to mount a Sainsmart 4ch realy and the MOSFET mod board cleanly inside.
MK2RearPanel.stl: This is the panel I chose to use and the ones featured in the pics. It allows for the original power plug/switch/fuse panel, original 40mm fan, and adds a hole for the jack.
MK2RearPanelDual.stl: Basically the same as before, but slightly rearranged to allow for a second 40mm fan.
MK2RearPanelBlank.stl: The Maker Select control box rear cover with NO cutouts to easily make your own design.
seimon_mount.stl: This is a mounting plate for another keystone jack on the other device. It includes a backplate for inside the other device enclosure and a front trim/mount that goes on the outside. My scanner body took 20 hours to print and I had not planned to add this at that time. I did not want to reprint it so this was my solution. It allows a not-so-pretty hole to be cut in your existing print or store bought enclosure and it will hide the nasty and look nice. You can use the backplate piece as a template for your hole.
seimon_jack.stl: The cut out for mounting a Seimon Cat6 keystone jack. I used the angle style because it was all I had on hand, but a straight one will look far nicer. You can use this file to boolean out holes in the included MK2RearPanelBlank.stl or in a design of your own. This was created from measurements of an actual Seimon faceplate. The important thing to remember is the larger face must remain at the 2mm thickness it currently is or the jack will not snap in. the smaller area is the actual jack opening. That can be made thicker as needed for your material, but keep in mind an angle jack will hit if you go any thicker than included.
40mm_fan_knockout.stl: Just as it says. You can use this to make a boolean to create a nice area to mount a 40mm fan including screw holes.
WIRING:
Ethernet wiring:
I punched a bit of cat 6 without the jacket (just the pairs) on the jacks. You can wire the jacks however you want as long as it matches on both ends. MAKE SURE YOU NEVER PLUG THIS INTO YOUR ROUTER, PC, OR OTHER ETHERNET DEVICE!! I used the following layout:
Orange/White: N/A - Will likely use for a pushbutton in the future.
Orange: 5vdc to Sainsmart from Pi
Blue/White: Sainsmart relay 1 trigger.
Blue: Sainsmart relay 2 trigger.
Green/White: Sainsmart relay 3 trigger.
Green: Sainsmart relay 4 trigger.
Brown/White: N/A - Will likely use for a pushbutton in the future.
Brown: Ground to Sainsmart from Pi
Relay Wiring:
R1 - Printer power. I used this relay to interrupt the AC line voltage into the power supply. Since the 5v feeding the relay comes from the pi in another enclosure with a different supply, you can turn power on/off to the printer remotely. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH AC POWER! THIS CAN KILL YOU OR DAMAGE YOUR EQUIPMENT.
R2 - Enclosure Lighting. I have 120vac LED rope lighting in my enclosure. I used the same AC feed I used for R1, then cut the female side of an extension cord and ran it out the back. I can control the enclosure lighting remotely as I like to leave it off unless needed to view the camera.
R3 - Extruder light. I created an LED strip mount for my extruder for extra light. Extremely useful in person, washes out my camera when viewing remotely so its nice to have the control.
R4 - Currently unused, but you can let your imagination go wild!
EDIT: I have found out that the switch on the side of the LCD on the Maker Select is a backlight toggle. When I get some time to play around I will post an update of how to do this. Depending whether a pwm signal dims it or not will change what I do. If dimming works I will likely use the two extra wires in the cat6 to make that happen. If it is not an option then I will likely use relay 4 to be able to toggle the backlight.
Software
I used the Octoprint plugin found here: https://github.com/vitormhenrique/OctoPrint-Enclosure
This was remixed from the Wanhao Duplicator I3 Controller replacement backplate by jamesarm97 that can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:853541