Thingiverse
Macro Keyboard with Volume Knob - WIP by OfirT
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 11 months ago
This is a WIP. Last update (25.11.2020)
I was annoyed with having many features my OS hidden behind tons of obscure keyboard shortcuts, and wanted to make custom features/ macros of my own outside of my "normal" keyboard, thus I created this programmable macro keyboard, including 9 Cherry MX switches and a rotary encoder, which also reacts to click, double click, for a total of 14 distinct commands!
I combine this with AHK for contextual actions.
To do:
Upload detailed instructions DONE! (25.11.2020)
Upload example Arduino code.
The key caps are rsheldiii's Parametric Mechanical Keycaps https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783650
General Notes:
The dial and lid should be printed facing DOWN, so supports are unneeded, bed adhesion is good and surface finish of the part is the best on the visible side when assembled.
Also, the top & bottom layers, as well as shells/perimeters can be set to 2 to reduce printing
time. It's designed to be very solid when assembled due to it's structure more than it's print settings.
There are sacrificial layers on the lid's screw holes, so no supports needed
*I included a 3mf file with all the objects, together with the print settings for my CR-10S, which are quite conservative, so they should work for most CR-10’s.
I was annoyed with having many features my OS hidden behind tons of obscure keyboard shortcuts, and wanted to make custom features/ macros of my own outside of my "normal" keyboard, thus I created this programmable macro keyboard, including 9 Cherry MX switches and a rotary encoder, which also reacts to click, double click, for a total of 14 distinct commands!
I combine this with AHK for contextual actions.
To do:
Upload detailed instructions DONE! (25.11.2020)
Upload example Arduino code.
The key caps are rsheldiii's Parametric Mechanical Keycaps https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783650
General Notes:
The dial and lid should be printed facing DOWN, so supports are unneeded, bed adhesion is good and surface finish of the part is the best on the visible side when assembled.
Also, the top & bottom layers, as well as shells/perimeters can be set to 2 to reduce printing
time. It's designed to be very solid when assembled due to it's structure more than it's print settings.
There are sacrificial layers on the lid's screw holes, so no supports needed
*I included a 3mf file with all the objects, together with the print settings for my CR-10S, which are quite conservative, so they should work for most CR-10’s.