Lightfocals by Comradekasten

Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AyXv0sG1v4
SUMMARY

These Glasses are remixed off of a model by vespahon called Calgara PRIMO and are the first pair in their series of glasses. My modification to the glasses adds holes for LEDs and a trench to run wires in. The purpose of this remix is to create a pair of safety glasses that are combined with a head lamp in order to provide light when working in dark places.
Frame

Modifications
The modifications I made to the frames where simple. Holes where added to both top corners in between the edge of the frame and the hinges to hold LEDs. Two holes where also added to the bridge. In between the holes a narrow trench was added to hide wires that run in-between the LEDs.
Printing
I found the best way to print the frame is shown in the photo. Printing the frame this way gives you the maximum detail on the trench that runs in between the holes. You also get to print without supports. This file also has a lot of small details, so I recommend printing it at a lower layer height. The frame needs to be sturdy, but it doesn't have to be solid since it is only going to be resting on your nose. I recommend printing around 35% infill.
Post Printing
To assemble the frame the arm needs to fit in the grove and the pin needs to slide in from the top. When I printed my models neither of these worked. I had to file the grove larger and drill out the holes so the pin would fit.
Arm

Modifications
The only thing that was needed to be done to the arm of the glasses was to add two holes. These holes are used to mount the battery case to the arm of the glasses, but only if you are using BatteryCase.stl or Old_Battery_Clip.stl.
Printing
When printing the arms I found the easiest way to get the part to adhere to the build platform was to lower the model in the slicing software just past the platform and then slice it. Unless you can print at a 45˚ angle supports will be necessary to print the bent end of the arm. Again there are small details on these files so a small layer height should be used, I used 0.2.
Post Printing
After printing there was some rough edges where the support was touching the arm. That part of the arm would be resting on the ear, so I sanded it down after the support was broken off. The holes that the battery case would attach to were also drilled out.
Battery Case

Design
The battery cases were designed in Google Sketchup then re-exported using Meshlabs to fix all the errors that Sketchup is known for. There are two versions of the Battery case. BatteryCase.stl is made to fit in the holes in the modified arm while BatteryCase_Glue.stl is designed to be simply glued to the side using super glue or your choice adhesive. If you chose to use BatteryCase_Glue.stl you don't have to print the modified arm, the original can be used instead.
Printing
These models don't have to be printed at an extremely low resolution because there is not much detail. Support is needed to print BatteryCase.stl because of the pegs that stick out of the bottom.
Post Printing
To prepare the battery case two bolts and two nuts are needed. The bolts are used to push against the batteries and make the electrical connection while the nuts are used to tighten against the wire and hold it in place. To finish the post printing the battery case can be glued or snapped onto the arm.
Old Battery Clip

Modifications
This battery clip designed by devlab was modified by making it extremely small and adding two pegs that come off the bottom and fit into the holes on the modified arm.
Old?
Printing this battery clip at such a small scale works, but makes it extremely fragile. The two that I printed broke, so I didn't use them. I printed them in PLA so I don't know if they would hold up better if they where printed in ABS. I included the file incase someone wanted to try.
Wiring

Parts Needed
Parts needed:
5mm LEDs
Large gauge solid wire

Wiring
The LEDs are inserted into the holes and the wires go from the battery case and are soldered to the first LED. The wires are then extended to the other three LEDs one at a time putting them in parallel.
Final Thoughts

Files
The files for this project are not perfect, and you may find simple errors in the meshes or scaling. Feel free to share them with me so I can fix them for later versions.
Uses
These glasses where designed for the main purpose of illuminating your work surface when working in the dark. While constructing them I thought of many other thing that could be done with them like:
Party glasses (if you use blinking RGB LEDs)
Anti-camera glasses (if you use infrared LEDs)
And even better yet a no hands cat toy (if you use lasers)

Enjoy Printing