LED dice 29mm Harald edition

Last crawled date: 4 years, 3 months ago

This thing is a small dice derived from my universal cube system.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3926580
I have it designed on request by Harald Sattler.
Here you are.
Update:
Harald complained about messsing with his website.
Not true!
He wants you to visite his website.
Please bare with him, bring up his hit counters.
Anyway have removed a link to the depicted pcb.
Point at something, lead the reader directly to the target.
This is how the Internet works.
Give the poeples work respect.
Give them credit, some times pledge them some money.
Buy them a coffee.
But ignore stupid hard way IP protection efforts.
No offense intended.
.
If you are trying to enforce something I will simply remove your stuff from my thing.
PERIOD!
RELAX man!
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With no doubt there are exist a few (or many?) solutions using multilexed or charlieplexed LED's.
Henrik Haftman made some hard and software designshttps://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/
Example: turnaround LED light PCB file (Eagle format)https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Eagle.zip
Schematics:https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Rundum.pnghttps://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Rundum2.pnghttps://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Eagle.zip/rundum4.wmf?bin=SVG
He declares all his stuff comes (when available) with Open Source software.
So i assume nobody can start stupid DMCA requests.
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Many readers are capable enough to make their own electronics.
Dear readers!
Please make a local copy of the projects files. No matter where they came from.
When you make something it would be a good idea to save tome files before they get lost anytime soon.
The cube size is 29mm.
Please take a simple CR1616 or CR2032 coin cell with lead wires or DIY made with heatshrink tube.
If you are going to make a pcb, DO NOT round the corners!
A square makes it much easier to place the pcb safely.
It allows for cutting off some plastic if soldered on parts occupy more space.
If you do not agree with Harald claims , make your own design.
The required pcb sice is a square of no more than 25.6.mm x 25.6mm
-NO cell coin holder please, the spacing inside the cube is tight
-Please use transparent or translucent filament here.
The light from the tiny LED's will not pass the black filament.
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I DO NOT own a pcb according to the files provided by Harald Sattler on his website.
Please read:http://www.harald-sattler.de/html/attiny-wurfel.htmhttp://www.harald-sattler.de/html/attiny-wurfel_reloaded.htm
Safety requirements
Unfortunaly some glue might be requiered.
Be it hotglue, silicon, double sided duct tap, foam or whats not.
Please take care on insulating conductive parts of the pcb, cell coin, tactile switch.
This time I could not design as usual fastening the parts using screws.
The build hight of the stacked parts inside the cube may vary.
Pls, fill up the gap.
Otherwise the tactile switch could fall inside the cube when pushing it hard.
The files:
-electronics schematics file
-PCB design files provided by Harald Sattler (Eagle format)
-content of the website page as a pdf-file translated trough Google.
-assembly instruction (pictures only), needs to be modified still.
-the printable parts
the top (cover) with tactile switch
the base with electronics, cell coin battery
Distanzring / Shim( have no clue how you call it) it can be used as a retainer or to bridge a gap. Scale it to the thickness you want.
The Code:
No code provided by me.
See Haralds website.
He goes over some details on the code.
He describes how he transformed the PIC controller based electronics to ATTiny hardware.
His code is using routines what puts the MC to sleep when not active.
Printing the parts requires some attention.
By chance the printer setup requires printing support or skirt alongside the rounded edges.
If you dislike printing spupport or skirt; the stupid Up! software insists of printing it with support ( leaving no other choice) cut off a small portion from the top face of the parts (stl-file).
The LED face front section has a thicknes of 0,6mm.
It can be tricky to find the right spot.
Recommended printing with NO raft.
From my experience:
I made a print using raft it ripped the filament out of the small holes when separating the raft from the part.