JGAurora Z603S Infrared Autobed Level Modification by Waggster 3d model
Warning. This content is not moderated and could be offensive.
m4
3dmdb logo
Thingiverse
JGAurora Z603S Infrared Autobed Level Modification by Waggster

JGAurora Z603S Infrared Autobed Level Modification by Waggster

by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
JG Aurora Z603S Infrared sensor upgrade
https://youtu.be/L8FqyaKwRao
This only works for the later GREEN motherboard.
WARNING WARNING
MAKE SURE YOU DOUBLE CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS
POSITIVE to POSITIVE
NEGATIVE to NEGATIVE
SIGNAL to SIGNAL
I soldered an extra 3 pin socket to my green motherboard (PIN 18). This is where the IR sensor is plugged in. Please check the image for the correct connection. The original opto Z min endstop has been disabled in the firmware as I intend to use it as a filament sensor input in the future. You can if you wish plug your new IR sensor into the Z min to save soldering anything. If you do this then you will need to change the allocated #define Z_MIN_PIN in the PINS_Z603s sketch back to pin 19.
WARNING WARNING
Description
Autobed level addition to the JG Aurora Z603S 3D printer.
Items you will require
Infrared sensor - https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/
3 wire servo extension lead (2 x 1m in length)
Files included
Mount STL
Cover
New X endstop trigger
Firmware 1.1.8 Marlin
To do this modification you will need to update the main board's firmware. You will need to update using the Arduino IDE software.
There are plenty of youtube videos showing you how to do this, just search for update marlin via arduino ide.
You will need to open your machine up and feed the 3 wire connector around the machine. The sensor uses a new 3 pin connector which I soldered too on the main board. If you do not want to do this then you can alter the firmware to use the Z minimum endstop connector. See above for changing to the pins info in the firmware required.
The current z endstop needs to be removed. Just unscrew it from the side frame and hide it below. You can always go back then if needed.
I've already configured the firmware to use this sensor, so you will only need to flash it. I have enabled the eeprom on the board, so you can save
bed levels.. but I would level at the start of every print just to be safe.
To level, you will need to add some gcode lines to your start gcode script. There is normally a tab / section in your software.. the lines you need to add are,
M851 Z-3.1 ; Z Offset
M500 ; Save to Eeprom
G28 ; Home
G29 ; Level bed
etc...
The Z offset can be set above. Z-1.0 = 1mm.. so if you want to lower the head then you would do..
M851 Z-1.2 ; Z Offset
This would then be 0.2mm closer than before.
Let me know how you get on.. Any questions please ask away and don't forget to like this :-)
I would also recommend adding the following to your gcode start / stop script in your preferred printing program.
START SCRIPT
M851 Z-3.1 ; Z Offset <--- NOTE you will need to change this value
M500 ; Save to Eeprom
G28 ; home all axes
G29 ; Level bed
G1 X10 Y10 F9000 ; get ready to prime
G1 Z0.3 F6000
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 X240 Y10 E24 F2000
G1 X250 Y10 F180
G1 X260 Y10 F5000
END GCODE
G1 X0 Y180 F3000 ; Move bed / head
G1 Z170 F3000 ; Move bed / head
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors
Then disable SKIRT or BRIM as you wont need it anymore.

Tags