Jeep Crawler Body (SCX10 clone compatible) by WrenchToDrive 3d model
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Jeep Crawler Body (SCX10 clone compatible) by WrenchToDrive

Jeep Crawler Body (SCX10 clone compatible) by WrenchToDrive

by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 4 months ago
Hi guys,
This is a fully 3D printable body shell to go with my earlier project, the Jeep Wrangler roll cage. It's SCX10 clone compatible but you can mod it to work with pretty much any crawler. The wheelbase is 313mm as pictured.
If you already built the roll cage or my 12428 crawler conversion floor boards, there are three small changes. First, the hood frame needs to have the front cross bar trimmed off, or print the file Hood_Frame_Clipped.stl included in this project. Second, this project comes with custom floor boards, but you can use a rotary tool to mod existing front section. Third, I included a round profile foot for the center roll bar which inserts into the hole in the floor boards for this project, but you can drill a hole in your existing one, or the floor boards that came with your crawler (with some planning on your part, of course).
Build video: https://youtu.be/zB_vW6kWlkE
Roll cage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4610573
Bumper mount kit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617755
Stinger bumper: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4588243
Big beefy bumper: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4590968
Rear bumper: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4622429
Don't like this body? Want to build a 3D printed crawler? Check out my Baja racer project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4597812
Instruction page coming soon. https://wrenchtodrive.blogspot.com/2020/12/jeep-cage-and-body-assembly-guide.html
See the exploded view for a rough guide. It's pretty easy. I used 6 M3x6-8mm screws but you can build the whole thing with hot glue without much trouble. As I show in the video, to make the doors and box easily removable, you will need two screws.
Durability shouldn't be terrible but a roll down a big hill will almost certainly rip off some parts (front fenders, I think for sure). As I've mentioned, the cage is pretty tough if you lay down the parts for printing and so far these parts have all been acceptably strong IMO.
I'm a little less than satisfied with the hood and cowl but I wanted to use the roll cage for this version so that's the best I could come up with and have it easy to take off. I thought the hood hinge would be easy but the cage is in the way, so no hinge for now. A piano hinge would work but it has to be quite large and I didn't like that alternative at all. I'm going to do a no cage version that will be one piece. The downside to that will be lack of durability, without a doubt. If that appeals to you, hold out until around January.
Use at your own risk.
Wrench to drive or drive to wrench?

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