j-head/e3d v6 mount with mini differential ir sensor for Flying Bear P905 by locnhinho

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

J-head/e3d v6 mount plate with mini differential IR sensor for Flying Bear P905
Update 9/13/2020: Update for the original sensor mount
Update 5/8/2018: Add Cura profile for eSUN ABS and a 3DBenchy print (blue)
Update 5/6/2018: Update Cura profile for eSUN PLA+ with an 3D Benchy print (pink)
Update 5/2/2018: Add Cura profile for eSUN PLA+
Update 3/29/2018: Add printer setting for PLA/ABS/PETG
Update 2/17/2018: Add a compact version of the mini ir sensor mount.
e3d v6/j-head mount:
This is the mount plate for e3d/j-head v6 hotend. This is a re-mix of e3d v6 mount plate by TH3D. The STL model is modified to similar size as the u-shape mount - https://reprapchampion.com/products/aluminum-groove-mount-for-e3d-v6-hotend-for-delta-reprap-kossel-mini-3d-printer. This does works and I had printed a few models.
After I made this STL model, I had since moved to an all aluminium mount plate by modify the u-shape mount plate as following:
Drill two holes and threaded them accordingly. The hole offset should be 6.1mm from one of the other set of hole. You don't have to threaded them but will make installing the hotend much simple. (My brother-in-law did this for me since he works in CNC.)
Using the STL mount as model, cut the aluminium to fit the Flying Bear P905 extruder mount bracket. It is so tight in term of space. You can screw both the STL model and the aluminium u-shape plate together. Then hand hex saw off the portion with the opening.
In order to mount this, you need to clip off a bit of the top fin. To do this, assemble the e3d/j-head hotend and position according. For the side that touch the mount bracket, use a cutting plier and clip off a bit.
To mount, first hand tight both screws and make sure it is flat. Then slowly tighten each side - just a little bit each side in rotation.
Included a test model print from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023.
Mini IR differential sensor
This mini IR differential sensor is from https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board. In order to get this to work with the Flying Bear P905 Marlin FW, you need to modify the firmware to default to digital output and output low on trigger. I had modified the firmware to always default to digital output. Then change the code to drive the LED PIN on trigger and the output pin to low on trigger. Due to this, the wire connection has changed. The file MiniIRSensorSmd.hex is the new firmware with the above changes.
To program the updated firmware, you will need to install those 6 PIN's on the IR sensor. Then use Arduino as an ISP to program the firmware. Many web page provides instruction on how to do this. For wiring, instead using the output in the original 3 PIN connector, use the PIN SCK pin.
* * *
Vcc MOSI GND
* * *
MISO SCK Reset
Use this SCK pin instead
This SCK pin will be 5V on non-trigger and 0V on triggered.
For the mount, you now have two options:
Option A: Use the modified DC42 Shield STL model accordingly. It is mounted along with the fan duct.
Option B: Use the ET-compact-mini-ir-sensor-mount.stl. This is a compact version that can be mount on the printer x-axis bracket. In order to do this, you need to solder wire directly on the mini ir sensor board instead using the pin header. The pin header is just too large. With direct soldered wire, it is much more compact. Print setting: 0.2 layer height, 50% infill, print on its side, and add zig-zag support at 5%.
With option B, you can now switch out the 30mm fan with a 40 mm fan. Using the noctua 40mm fan, it is dead quite and absolutely no vibration. In order to mount the 40 mm fan, you need to print yourself a 40mm fan mount from here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:929326. Please note that I have to scale the x dimension by 102% with PLA or print with PETG. Otherwise, it breaks with PLA. In addition, when mounting, it does push the fan duct against the x-axis bracket a bit. Just be aware of this. Some day or some one can design a 40 mm fan duct that offsets by 3.8mm.
Original Auto Bed Level Sensor
If you don't have the Mini IR differential sensor, you can use the original auto bed level sensor. Print the STL file "ET-AutoLevelSensorMount-53x42mm.stl" and various adjust plate "ET-AutoLevelSensorMount-53x42mm plate x.xx.stl". These plate allows you to adjust the z-offset height. Make sure that you print these plate at 0.2 initial layer height and 0.05 layer height.
Blower Fan
For blower fan, see this - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2843816.
All Metal Heat Break
If you want to print longer and higher temperature, consider swap out the heat break with this all metal high quality titanium alloy - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/high-quality-V6-titanium-alloy-heat-break-TC4-for-E3D-V6-HOTEND-heater-block-1-75MM/32853548000.html?spm=2114.search0103.0.0.522b3d57COcR9b. The 3D benchy printed in blue is with this heat break. Make sure you set the retraction to 3mm. Please note that this only works with ABS. With PLA, you will get jam. For PLA, use the heat break with PTFE. Have not tried PETG yet.

eSUN PLA Printer Setting (eSUN-PLA.curaprofile):
Extruder 190 degree C
Extruder 200 degree C first layer
Bed 60 degree C first layer only
Flow 95%
Initial layer flow 85%
Fan 75%
Speed 50mms/
Wall 25mm/s

Brim 8mm

eSUN ABS Printer Setting (eSUN-ABS.curaprofile):

Extruder 225/230 degree C layer 0
Bed 80 degree C
Flow 100%/88% layer 0
Fan 75%
Speed 40mm/s
Wall 20mm/s
Retract 3mm (for all metal heat break)

Brim 8mm

eSUN PETG Printer Setting:

Extruder 225 degree C
Bed 80 degree C first layer only
Flow 95%
Fan 75%
Speed 40mm/s
Wall 20mm/s
Brim 8mm
Layer height 0.25
Retraction 3mm
Travel 120mm/s
Combing mode off