IKEA RepRap LINNMON/ADILS by fASE-2

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

this design is outdated. for archival purposes only.
FINAL UPDATE March 19th, 2016 ****
i resolved the only major issue (idlers) by removing any printed parts. i used fender washers on top and bottom of 2 bearings on a M3 x 40mm screw drilled into the upper tabletop thereby bracing it at 2 points instead of 1. now that the idlers stay perpendicular, there are no anomalies in the layers, and every line comes out smooth w/o any wobble. i've taken this project as far as its gonna go, and i'm quite satisfied w/ the results. aluminum tubing + PLA makes sense for larger builds based on this project. its not for everyone, but it is a viable alternative in my opinion. the front bearing is slightly loose and makes a bit of noise on fast moves, but the quality of the print is not affected.
here is why you should NEVER BUILD THIS THING:
the 75 x 60cm LINNMON tabletops are no longer available from IKEA, you'd have to go even bigger at 100 x 60cm. that won't affect the movement but it'll be even bigger, and this thing is already pretty ridiculous.
i don't i think posted all the right parts on thingiverse to successfully make this thing. the fact is, i have thousands of designs and can't remember which ones i printed or which ones even worked.
there is little to no maintenance for this printer, but when you DO have to access the XY steppers, it becomes a real hassle and requires a considerable amount of patience.
having said that, i really don't want anyone wasting their time on this thing. it was a proof of concept that has become my main 3D printer. i've disassembled my old printer and have designed a new frameless, smaller, more conventional 3D printer which i will post to thingiverse in the next week or so. that one is designed to be more straight-forward, has both bowden and direct, and uses 8mm shafting + LM8LUU. it uses the same movement for XY but will be much more simplified and accessibility will no longer be an issue. stay tuned, and thanks for checking this thing out.
moved temporary Z-axis to side-to-side instead of front-to-back. got some front bearing noise which i'll address soon, and still having issues on retract and fast move leaving artifacts behind. swapped out 1.7A 0.9degree/step motor for 1.2A 1.8degree/step motor for the extruder. somehow the 0.9 steppers can't keep up w/ the information being sent to them and just panic. i'll look into that too, 'cause ideally i'd want those on XY since they're much smoother. i can always change stepping to 1/8 instead of 1/16 but i'd rather understand why.
2 IKEA LINNMON tabletops connected by 4 ADILS legs. this is done by inverting the height adjustment feet. i'll explain later and consolidate the other things i uploaded into one. z-axis is temporary as are many other parts. very WIP.
don't attempt to build this thing yet until i publish a BOM.
i have a few ideas for this printer, including floating on just 1 tabletop w/o any legs... maybe even cutting a whole in the top and attempting direct drive instead of bowden. since its rather big, the sky's the limit.
for now i need to modify the platemounts to include a M3 nut the idler pin can screw into so its braced at 2 points in stead of just one (won't be pulled toward the stepper). also i already have a stepper plate w/ endstop holes at either end for endstop mounting for a cleaner design. additionally i have a belt snap in mechanism i'd like to try out in the near future. the Z-axis is very temporary and that has to get redone to use the ADILS legs as smooth rods (if possible--i failed miserably in my previous attempts). cable management, control box, and lighting will be worked on next.