HC Maker 7 LCD case by scottypitcher

Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago

A 2 piece case that assembles onto the Z axis frame support's M10 threaded rod (see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4608956). Note I haven't uploaded my working model of the HC Maker 7 yet so you won't be able to preview the model with the threaded rod inserted.
Other parts required:
8 x M3 nuts.
4 x M3x12 pan head machine screws.
4 x M3x18 pan head machine screws.
M10 Nylock nut.
The HC Maker 7 LCD board. Remove the knob and leave it off until you've assembled the new cabinet.
CAUTION: Be careful when removing the LCD board from the black HC Maker 7 control box. There are live mains voltage terminals inside the box so please make sure you unplug the power lead from the wall before you open the box. IT IS NOT SUFFICIENT TO TURN OFF THE POWER WITH THE MAIN SWITCH ON THE BOX, YOU MUST UPLUG THE MAIN POWER CORD FROM THE WALL.
After printing the the base and the front cover:
Press the M10 Nyloc nut into the base piece. This will ensure that the case stays in place when threaded onto the M10 rod.
Press 4 x M3 nuts into the back of the base, and then bolt the LCD board down to the base.
Thread the base assembly onto the Z axis frame support's M10 threaded rod, up to the desired height.
Fit the LCD board to the base piece and secure it with 4 x M3x12 bolts.
Press the 4 x M3 nuts into the bosses on the top and bottom sides of the top cover. To make sure they are aligned properly, insert an M3 bolt into each boss and try to engage the threads.
Place the top cover over the circuit board and fit it to the base, ensuring that the 2 ribbon cables fit into the recess provided at the bottom of the base. Fix the top cover in place by inserting 4 x M3x18 bolts into the holes on the rear of the base and screwing them up tight.
Fit the knob back to the control shaft on the top cover and fix in place.
---FIN---