Thingiverse
Handle for Magnetic 1/4" 6.35mm Hex Shank by BETLOG
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years ago
Handle for Magnetic 1/4" 6.35mm Hex Shank
Makeshift quick-swap screwdriver. I use them with hex tips.
Also:
Is specifically for the 100mm long version.
Works for me:
PLA, 0.32mm layers, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.8mm perimeter, 10% infill, no support
2019-04-29
Added chuckHandle-24mm.stl
Because it uses an M4x6mm bolt and M4square nut... it's just better, and this grip diameter seems most useful. Despite making all sorts of size variations, not uploaded here, I have eventually realised that this single grip size, and connection method, is the best. The old style friction-hold grips are fine, but as soon as they lose the ability to hold heavier tips I replace the grip with chuckHandle-24mm.stl
Notes:
Inserting the shank is tight. To ensure that you can get it out again it's wise to insert and remove it a few times to get most of the length in and relatively easy removal. This helps remove any print defects and smooth the path. Then after you can insert it most of the way and have found something to grip the shank with to allow you to be comfortable getting it out... hold the grip and force the shank in all the way. There is a locking mechanism at the last cm or so of insertion. It should stil be possible to pull the shank out, but you will need ot have a good grip on the shank. A strip of rubber or a couple of wide rubber bands helps get a grip, or pliers loosely around the shank and behind the chromed connector will get you the required leverage. After a few insertions they operate quite freely. Lubrication may help, but it may also make it too lose to hold the shank.
There is a small hole in the base of the handle to let air out, and it may be useful for inserting a slim rod or nail with the point cut off to help remove the shank if it gets stuck.
Should still work even if you print them at high speed and your vertical wall quality is crap (image related), as long as corners are sharp.
NOTE: I print with a 0.4mm nozzle so I specify 0.4mm external perimeter width in Slic3r. TO ALL OF MY MODELS TO DATE. Typically a 0.4mm nozzle prints it's external perimeters at 0.45 to 0.48mm by default, so unless you instead specify 0.4 you will probably find mated parts are too tight and bolt holes do not fit bolts. Specify 0.4mm external perimeter and you should get the results I do: perfect fit.
Why do I do this? Because it makes the math and the modeling easier and more precise than needing to add 0.45 to 0.48...divided by two (0.225 to 0.24) to everything....0.4 divided by 2 is 0.2... and easier.
Makeshift quick-swap screwdriver. I use them with hex tips.
Also:
Is specifically for the 100mm long version.
Works for me:
PLA, 0.32mm layers, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.8mm perimeter, 10% infill, no support
2019-04-29
Added chuckHandle-24mm.stl
Because it uses an M4x6mm bolt and M4square nut... it's just better, and this grip diameter seems most useful. Despite making all sorts of size variations, not uploaded here, I have eventually realised that this single grip size, and connection method, is the best. The old style friction-hold grips are fine, but as soon as they lose the ability to hold heavier tips I replace the grip with chuckHandle-24mm.stl
Notes:
Inserting the shank is tight. To ensure that you can get it out again it's wise to insert and remove it a few times to get most of the length in and relatively easy removal. This helps remove any print defects and smooth the path. Then after you can insert it most of the way and have found something to grip the shank with to allow you to be comfortable getting it out... hold the grip and force the shank in all the way. There is a locking mechanism at the last cm or so of insertion. It should stil be possible to pull the shank out, but you will need ot have a good grip on the shank. A strip of rubber or a couple of wide rubber bands helps get a grip, or pliers loosely around the shank and behind the chromed connector will get you the required leverage. After a few insertions they operate quite freely. Lubrication may help, but it may also make it too lose to hold the shank.
There is a small hole in the base of the handle to let air out, and it may be useful for inserting a slim rod or nail with the point cut off to help remove the shank if it gets stuck.
Should still work even if you print them at high speed and your vertical wall quality is crap (image related), as long as corners are sharp.
NOTE: I print with a 0.4mm nozzle so I specify 0.4mm external perimeter width in Slic3r. TO ALL OF MY MODELS TO DATE. Typically a 0.4mm nozzle prints it's external perimeters at 0.45 to 0.48mm by default, so unless you instead specify 0.4 you will probably find mated parts are too tight and bolt holes do not fit bolts. Specify 0.4mm external perimeter and you should get the results I do: perfect fit.
Why do I do this? Because it makes the math and the modeling easier and more precise than needing to add 0.45 to 0.48...divided by two (0.225 to 0.24) to everything....0.4 divided by 2 is 0.2... and easier.