Thingiverse
Ghost S1 Ventilation Stand Sauginator 9001 (2 Fans with 120mmx15mm) by RolfZuckowskiUltras
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
Do you like this design and want to give a Tip for it? Do it here
Hey
I designed this Ghost S1 foot for a more efficient Ventilation of the Ghost S1. It's optimized for Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM fans and seem to work very efficiently. Since I like to give things dumb names, I decided to call this Sauginator 9001.
Refer photo for temps. Look out for the FAN-RPM. It's not a direct scientific comparisson under same conditions, but with the tunings, you probably gonna go for.
Feel free to use and modify this for anything, but not comercially (see CC-License Terms). The design took quite a long time to make. I would appreciate if you would send me a little tip over the tip-button on thingiverse, if you liked the design. This will enable me to afford the hardware for a custom loop to do a next iteration.
You can also find a unfinished expermental 25mm-Version in the .stp file. It needs some work on the screw holes. It's not tested yet.
Adressable WS2812b-LED-Strips can be fitted optionally for RGB-Lighting. It's a quite nice possibility, since you won't notice it, if turned of.
Printing the Part:
You'll find two versions of the bottom plate and foot. One is the complete file, which can be printed on printers with a print bed of at least 330mm (Anycubic Predator, Ender 5 Plus). Those huge sizes are quite rare, so I also made a cut version for 300mm machines (CR-10, Sapphire Plus). This is the version you can see on the pictures.
I did not do a 200mm version for machines like the Ender-3 yet, because I had not the time to test it yet and was not quite shure about the stability, since the cut is forced to be done in the fan cutout.
Material:
Filament:
I would reccomend PETG as Material, since it can widthstand the generated heat and does not loose it's strenght, when glued.
Glue:
PETG needs quite nasty glue. Most instant adhesives (gel) should work fine. I used UHU Super Power. Its very Strong.
Postprocessing:
Deburr all the corners on the printbed side, so your parts fit perfectly fine. The surfaces to be glued should be sanded a little with 100 grid sandpaper. 300mm-Versions: You have to glue the foot and bottom plate parts first.
After that, the complete bottom plate and foot can be glued together. I would advise you to use at least two 4mm sticks in the screw holes of the foot (like drills) to center foot and plate. Then mark the fan cutout on on the bottom side of the bottom plate, so you know, where to put the glue later.
Glue it:
Put the glue onto the bottom plate and spread it with your finger (gloves!). Be fast with it. then press the plate onto the the foot. Use your drills to center it (again) and maybe use some clamps to secure it. Wipe of the spare glue.
You should glue it in a well ventilationed area. The usage of a respirator is advised, if available. A big surface means a lot of fumes.
Finish it:
At least at the 300mm-Version you are going to have some glue residues at the foot. I would recommend to use some steel wool to polish it off.
Recommended fan config (Air-Cooled):
Negative pressure (Chassis-Fans outwards, CPU-Fan inwards)
Hey
I designed this Ghost S1 foot for a more efficient Ventilation of the Ghost S1. It's optimized for Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM fans and seem to work very efficiently. Since I like to give things dumb names, I decided to call this Sauginator 9001.
Refer photo for temps. Look out for the FAN-RPM. It's not a direct scientific comparisson under same conditions, but with the tunings, you probably gonna go for.
Feel free to use and modify this for anything, but not comercially (see CC-License Terms). The design took quite a long time to make. I would appreciate if you would send me a little tip over the tip-button on thingiverse, if you liked the design. This will enable me to afford the hardware for a custom loop to do a next iteration.
You can also find a unfinished expermental 25mm-Version in the .stp file. It needs some work on the screw holes. It's not tested yet.
Adressable WS2812b-LED-Strips can be fitted optionally for RGB-Lighting. It's a quite nice possibility, since you won't notice it, if turned of.
Printing the Part:
You'll find two versions of the bottom plate and foot. One is the complete file, which can be printed on printers with a print bed of at least 330mm (Anycubic Predator, Ender 5 Plus). Those huge sizes are quite rare, so I also made a cut version for 300mm machines (CR-10, Sapphire Plus). This is the version you can see on the pictures.
I did not do a 200mm version for machines like the Ender-3 yet, because I had not the time to test it yet and was not quite shure about the stability, since the cut is forced to be done in the fan cutout.
Material:
Filament:
I would reccomend PETG as Material, since it can widthstand the generated heat and does not loose it's strenght, when glued.
Glue:
PETG needs quite nasty glue. Most instant adhesives (gel) should work fine. I used UHU Super Power. Its very Strong.
Postprocessing:
Deburr all the corners on the printbed side, so your parts fit perfectly fine. The surfaces to be glued should be sanded a little with 100 grid sandpaper. 300mm-Versions: You have to glue the foot and bottom plate parts first.
After that, the complete bottom plate and foot can be glued together. I would advise you to use at least two 4mm sticks in the screw holes of the foot (like drills) to center foot and plate. Then mark the fan cutout on on the bottom side of the bottom plate, so you know, where to put the glue later.
Glue it:
Put the glue onto the bottom plate and spread it with your finger (gloves!). Be fast with it. then press the plate onto the the foot. Use your drills to center it (again) and maybe use some clamps to secure it. Wipe of the spare glue.
You should glue it in a well ventilationed area. The usage of a respirator is advised, if available. A big surface means a lot of fumes.
Finish it:
At least at the 300mm-Version you are going to have some glue residues at the foot. I would recommend to use some steel wool to polish it off.
Recommended fan config (Air-Cooled):
Negative pressure (Chassis-Fans outwards, CPU-Fan inwards)
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