Thingiverse
Funbot M8 version by madmike8
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
I had wanted to try a Funbot with 8mm Rods and Bearings, So here's my attempt at making that happen. This is just the parts required to redo the axis to 8mm.
Currently set for 15.5mm diameter for LM8UU 15mm OD bearings, and 8.15mm diameter for 8mm OD Rods.
This is also modified to also be able to use a T8 Leadscrew on the Z axis.
I think It's all good now. I will add accessories from here on out.
After nearly 3 years of using my Funbots, I find them very reliable printers. I'm going to try to do some updates to the files to make it better.
More Improvements coming soon.
12/3/18 I added a spool holder that mounts on top and another version of the extruder holder that works with the new spool holder. Use a M4 size screw to attach spool end, amd M3 for mounting to Z top.
6/12/18 I updated the Z top part so that either a 608 bearing or a KFL08 Pillow Block could be used. I updated the Y stepper mount to have three mounting points instead of two.
5/21/18 I removed the old Marlin firmware and replaced it with Marlin 1.1.8 with bugfixes. It is set to have the Y endstop mounted in front. The Y endstop is still connected to the YMin pins, but will home to max. It has Bilinear Bed Leveling turned on along with BabyStepping and Linear Advance. Safe Z homing is enabled. Repaired the Part Fan Mount Hotend Cap. Sorry about that.
3/28/18 Added Extruder Plate remix with mounting holes for X carriage and hotend mount. I also upgraded the X carriage to include these mounting holes. It should make it easier to mount and align.
3/28/18 Added Hotend cap for e3dv6 hotend with 5015 part fan mount. FB 5015 fan duct Can be used with or without probe.
Optionally you can use the Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct for use without Z probe sensorhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954001
3/27/18 Added Drill template for the Base. The base is the most difficult part of building a Funbot, because the Z tower needs to be aligned with the Y axis. So I created this template to make it easier. You really only need Template1 unless your doing a non standard base plate. The template includes a back template and a front template. Align template to back left corner and clamp. Drill holes with 3mm drill bit except 2B. Move Template down to were the 2B hole aligns with were you drilled the B hole. Place screw through the 2B hole to hold alignment. Now drill the new B hole. This completes the Back holes. Now use the Front part of the Template to drill the holes for the Front Y mount and LCD. If your using a non standard base you might have to use Template3 to align your LCD with the electronics base.
02/26/18 Added Y Pulley Tensioner for use with Aluminum 20T Idler Pulleys. One for 3mm bolts or 5mm bolts depending on which you have. Xend Pulley should use a Aluminum 20T 5mm Bore Idler Pulley. I've had the original printed pulleys fail.
02/22/18 Added version 2 of the X,Y, and Z carriages. Mainly they add a way to keep the LM8UU bearings firmly in place by adding ziptie slots for the bearings. Added support for the Y axis and changed the Support for the Z axis T8 mount. Changed the X end stop on the Z Carriage to use the common board endstops with 19mm screw centers, and added End stop mounts the Y or Z that use the same ones. I will add pics later of printed parts
2/08/18 Added New Hotend Mounts that better fit mounting plate. One with sensor mount. One without.
10/27/15 Added 5/16" ID Bronze Bushing to lm8uu bearing adapter to allow use of 5/16" smooth rods with this machine. The Bronze Bushings have a 5/16" ID 7/16" OD and .062” Flange.
10/27/15 Added Bowden Extruder Support
This is the current Bowden Extruder I'm using, and like it really well.
I use the standard Mk8 hobbed pulley one.
Compact Bowden extruder, direct drive, bearing bloc, auto load 1.75mm filamenthttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:669459
11/10/15 I added a Hotend mount with Inductive Auto Bed Leveling Sensor. This is designed for the Chinese metal hotends. The inductive sensor is offset in the Y direction 23mm. The NPN inductive sensor is wired directly to the RAMPS board (Brown to 12v, Black to Ground, and Blue to Z Min Signal Pin) Picture added.
12/03/15 Added Funbot M8 Marlin Firmware. It's set for 200 step motors with 16x microstepping with 20T GT2 pulleys on X and Y axis. TR8 Leadscrew on Z axis and Mk8 Gear on Extruder. It's also set for Auto Bed Leveling.
12/04/15 Added Funbot M8 Slic3r Configs. Hopefully it will give you a leg up on tuning your printer.
12/04/15 Added a Bill of Materials. I will adjust it a bit more soon.
12/17/15 Added Y Endstop
Wing Nut I use for Y Belt tensioninghttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:495543
Wing Nut I use for Bed Mount / Levelinghttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19812
Base Plate / Build Plate Options.
You can either use a premade Aluminum Base Plates found on ebay and Mk2/3 Heatbeds or use 200mm or 8" square wood or Aluminum base plates. I use 8" square 1/8" thick Aluminum plates for the build plate. If you want to add heat to it I suggest a 160mm Diameter Kapton Heater mounted on the bottom of the build plate. The Kapton Heatbed combo will heat to 90C in about 6 minutes.
Pictures Added for reference.
https://youtu.be/lDKnS6WR9FY
http://youtu.be/SkEecrNrZW8
Currently set for 15.5mm diameter for LM8UU 15mm OD bearings, and 8.15mm diameter for 8mm OD Rods.
This is also modified to also be able to use a T8 Leadscrew on the Z axis.
I think It's all good now. I will add accessories from here on out.
After nearly 3 years of using my Funbots, I find them very reliable printers. I'm going to try to do some updates to the files to make it better.
More Improvements coming soon.
12/3/18 I added a spool holder that mounts on top and another version of the extruder holder that works with the new spool holder. Use a M4 size screw to attach spool end, amd M3 for mounting to Z top.
6/12/18 I updated the Z top part so that either a 608 bearing or a KFL08 Pillow Block could be used. I updated the Y stepper mount to have three mounting points instead of two.
5/21/18 I removed the old Marlin firmware and replaced it with Marlin 1.1.8 with bugfixes. It is set to have the Y endstop mounted in front. The Y endstop is still connected to the YMin pins, but will home to max. It has Bilinear Bed Leveling turned on along with BabyStepping and Linear Advance. Safe Z homing is enabled. Repaired the Part Fan Mount Hotend Cap. Sorry about that.
3/28/18 Added Extruder Plate remix with mounting holes for X carriage and hotend mount. I also upgraded the X carriage to include these mounting holes. It should make it easier to mount and align.
3/28/18 Added Hotend cap for e3dv6 hotend with 5015 part fan mount. FB 5015 fan duct Can be used with or without probe.
Optionally you can use the Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct for use without Z probe sensorhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954001
3/27/18 Added Drill template for the Base. The base is the most difficult part of building a Funbot, because the Z tower needs to be aligned with the Y axis. So I created this template to make it easier. You really only need Template1 unless your doing a non standard base plate. The template includes a back template and a front template. Align template to back left corner and clamp. Drill holes with 3mm drill bit except 2B. Move Template down to were the 2B hole aligns with were you drilled the B hole. Place screw through the 2B hole to hold alignment. Now drill the new B hole. This completes the Back holes. Now use the Front part of the Template to drill the holes for the Front Y mount and LCD. If your using a non standard base you might have to use Template3 to align your LCD with the electronics base.
02/26/18 Added Y Pulley Tensioner for use with Aluminum 20T Idler Pulleys. One for 3mm bolts or 5mm bolts depending on which you have. Xend Pulley should use a Aluminum 20T 5mm Bore Idler Pulley. I've had the original printed pulleys fail.
02/22/18 Added version 2 of the X,Y, and Z carriages. Mainly they add a way to keep the LM8UU bearings firmly in place by adding ziptie slots for the bearings. Added support for the Y axis and changed the Support for the Z axis T8 mount. Changed the X end stop on the Z Carriage to use the common board endstops with 19mm screw centers, and added End stop mounts the Y or Z that use the same ones. I will add pics later of printed parts
2/08/18 Added New Hotend Mounts that better fit mounting plate. One with sensor mount. One without.
10/27/15 Added 5/16" ID Bronze Bushing to lm8uu bearing adapter to allow use of 5/16" smooth rods with this machine. The Bronze Bushings have a 5/16" ID 7/16" OD and .062” Flange.
10/27/15 Added Bowden Extruder Support
This is the current Bowden Extruder I'm using, and like it really well.
I use the standard Mk8 hobbed pulley one.
Compact Bowden extruder, direct drive, bearing bloc, auto load 1.75mm filamenthttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:669459
11/10/15 I added a Hotend mount with Inductive Auto Bed Leveling Sensor. This is designed for the Chinese metal hotends. The inductive sensor is offset in the Y direction 23mm. The NPN inductive sensor is wired directly to the RAMPS board (Brown to 12v, Black to Ground, and Blue to Z Min Signal Pin) Picture added.
12/03/15 Added Funbot M8 Marlin Firmware. It's set for 200 step motors with 16x microstepping with 20T GT2 pulleys on X and Y axis. TR8 Leadscrew on Z axis and Mk8 Gear on Extruder. It's also set for Auto Bed Leveling.
12/04/15 Added Funbot M8 Slic3r Configs. Hopefully it will give you a leg up on tuning your printer.
12/04/15 Added a Bill of Materials. I will adjust it a bit more soon.
12/17/15 Added Y Endstop
Wing Nut I use for Y Belt tensioninghttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:495543
Wing Nut I use for Bed Mount / Levelinghttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19812
Base Plate / Build Plate Options.
You can either use a premade Aluminum Base Plates found on ebay and Mk2/3 Heatbeds or use 200mm or 8" square wood or Aluminum base plates. I use 8" square 1/8" thick Aluminum plates for the build plate. If you want to add heat to it I suggest a 160mm Diameter Kapton Heater mounted on the bottom of the build plate. The Kapton Heatbed combo will heat to 90C in about 6 minutes.
Pictures Added for reference.
https://youtu.be/lDKnS6WR9FY
http://youtu.be/SkEecrNrZW8
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