Thingiverse
FT Goblin Parts by nesteffe
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
These are some parts I modeled for use with the FT Goblin.
There are two versions of the firewall, one for motors with 16mm spacing for their screws and one for motors that have 16mm spacing for one pair of screws and 19mm for the other. My DYS motor uses 16x16, while a Racerstar I have uses 19x16. If your motor has different spacing this is easy to modify in the SCAD file by using the screw_spacing_h and screw_spacing_v parameters to the firewall module.
My previous camera mount was almost directly modeled off of the balsa version, just 3D printed as a solid piece. After a tree jumped out in front of where I was flying I redesigning the camera mount into a two piece system. Now the base can be hot glued into the body and the front part of the mount can be attached with M3 screws. If the camera mount is damaged you can simply print the front half again and swap to the new one without having to try cutting the old one off and attempting to re-glue the new one. The camera mount is designed for use with micro cameras that are 20mm wide, while the large one is for cameras that are 26mm wide, although I didn't have one handy to test with so your results may vary. The base uses M3 heat set inserts which can be found many places, such as Amazon and are installed by setting them over the hole and heating them with a soldering iron until they sink into place.
The flight controller mount is designed to have the legs fed from the inside of the plane body through the top of the battery bay so the FC can be mounted in the space between the body and the top of the nose cone. I held it in place with the self-adhesive velcro that holds my battery in place. The holes should be tapped with an M3 tap and normal M3 screws can be used. While an FC is not required I wanted one for the OSD, and having some stabilization is nice with how twitchy this plane can be.
As seen in the pictures I mounted my VTX antenna in the back, protruding through the vent and secured to the rear of the wing. The foam was not strong enough to hold the antenna so I created a pair of washers to support it. The foam was also too thick for the threads on my antenna extension so I had to make the funky bottom washer which needs to be set into the foam by cutting out a 16mm hole for it to recess into. That should be the only piece which requires supports to print.
My control horn is designed to be used with adjustable pushrod connectors but could easily be used with just normal wire if you adjust the hole sizes. I would recommend cutting away the paper underneath were the control horn mounts as you will get better adhesion with less risk of the paper delaminating from the foam.
The wing opening reinforcement STL is by CapnBry. I highly recommend adding these to reduce the chances of the plane body shearing in half at the wing opening in the event of an unscheduled nose-first landing, not that I would know anything about that.
Print settings don't matter a whole lot on most of the parts, but I would do the firewall with more top/bottom layers and >=50% infill. As mentioned before, the VTX antenna bottom washer will require supports to print.
There are two versions of the firewall, one for motors with 16mm spacing for their screws and one for motors that have 16mm spacing for one pair of screws and 19mm for the other. My DYS motor uses 16x16, while a Racerstar I have uses 19x16. If your motor has different spacing this is easy to modify in the SCAD file by using the screw_spacing_h and screw_spacing_v parameters to the firewall module.
My previous camera mount was almost directly modeled off of the balsa version, just 3D printed as a solid piece. After a tree jumped out in front of where I was flying I redesigning the camera mount into a two piece system. Now the base can be hot glued into the body and the front part of the mount can be attached with M3 screws. If the camera mount is damaged you can simply print the front half again and swap to the new one without having to try cutting the old one off and attempting to re-glue the new one. The camera mount is designed for use with micro cameras that are 20mm wide, while the large one is for cameras that are 26mm wide, although I didn't have one handy to test with so your results may vary. The base uses M3 heat set inserts which can be found many places, such as Amazon and are installed by setting them over the hole and heating them with a soldering iron until they sink into place.
The flight controller mount is designed to have the legs fed from the inside of the plane body through the top of the battery bay so the FC can be mounted in the space between the body and the top of the nose cone. I held it in place with the self-adhesive velcro that holds my battery in place. The holes should be tapped with an M3 tap and normal M3 screws can be used. While an FC is not required I wanted one for the OSD, and having some stabilization is nice with how twitchy this plane can be.
As seen in the pictures I mounted my VTX antenna in the back, protruding through the vent and secured to the rear of the wing. The foam was not strong enough to hold the antenna so I created a pair of washers to support it. The foam was also too thick for the threads on my antenna extension so I had to make the funky bottom washer which needs to be set into the foam by cutting out a 16mm hole for it to recess into. That should be the only piece which requires supports to print.
My control horn is designed to be used with adjustable pushrod connectors but could easily be used with just normal wire if you adjust the hole sizes. I would recommend cutting away the paper underneath were the control horn mounts as you will get better adhesion with less risk of the paper delaminating from the foam.
The wing opening reinforcement STL is by CapnBry. I highly recommend adding these to reduce the chances of the plane body shearing in half at the wing opening in the event of an unscheduled nose-first landing, not that I would know anything about that.
Print settings don't matter a whole lot on most of the parts, but I would do the firewall with more top/bottom layers and >=50% infill. As mentioned before, the VTX antenna bottom washer will require supports to print.
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