FPV Single Axis Gimbal for ImpulesRC Alien and Similar by Mchaos 3d model
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FPV Single Axis Gimbal for ImpulesRC Alien and Similar by Mchaos

FPV Single Axis Gimbal for ImpulesRC Alien and Similar by Mchaos

by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
03-16-2020 - So I haven't updated this in a while however i have made some changes. I want to post them, but I need to make a video on how to set this up. The new updated frame utilizes bearings. While the original method worked, and did the job, it wasn't ideal. The initial design was an attempt to make this super easy to setup and use. Making the switch to bearings, makes this much better. The gimbal moves so easy and smooth. This new frame still uses the screws that come with the arrow cam, but need to be modified in order to work. Stay tuned..
7-18-2019 - Update. Fixed the STL so that it doesn't print with holes where the stand offs run through. Also added an added another vtx antenna mount for the newer frsky r9mm antenna so you can zip it down.
When I started my first 7" Long Range Build I decided that I wanted some control on the angle of my FPV cam. I felt that because this quad was going to be more about exploration than freestyle that I should be able to have good control at low speeds as well as the ability to fly fast.
Since camera angel dictates speed, the best way to be able to fly slow with control would be to have a low camera angel. To be able to between fast and slow, I had to be able to change the angle in the air.
This is what I came up with....
A gimal system that allows you to change your angle mid flight. I have mine set up so that one of the pots on my X7 radio controls the full range of motion. Then I have one of the 3 position switches set up so that all the way back allows control with the pot. one click forward and it goes to my basic flight angle. Easy flight. Not too fast, not too slow. All the way forward send the cam to max angel for turbo fly mode.
I designed this to be held in place by the o-rings, and for there to be no direct connection from the cam to the frame. This is to help reduce vibrations, oscillations and jello.
Video of how it works and set up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGs2A_NZKms&t=99s
*Currently the Cam adapters are designed to fit Foxeer Arrow "V2" FPV cam.. Because that is what I have. If someone wants to donate the carcass of a Runcam or whatever, I will gladly make mounts for that. I need it to take measurements and make sure of the fit. (Any cam of similar width using the same mounting screws should fit.Screws are important)
*List of adapters for other cams. I will add them as I come up with them. I have no way to test some of these, so they may or may not work.
Foxeer Arrow V2**
Runcam Split / Mini
Generic set
Included are complementary parts for antenna mounting, and VTX Stack mounting also for but not limited to ImpulseRC Alien. I have 2 different VTX antenna mounts. 1 stand alone, and 1 for R9MM receiver.
R9MM antenna: I was going to design an antenna holder. I still may, but in the mean time I found one that was really good and I am currently using. It works with the way it was intended to be installed. On the VTX/R9MM mount there is a hole in the base that lines up so that you can run a zip tie through it and hold the antenna holder. 1 single zip tie works great. I have uploaded a pic of how it get installs.
What it fits:
ImpulseRC Alien& Clone frames. It also fits a lot of other frames of this style due to many frames having the same spacing and height on the frame risers.
Spacing on the front risers needs to be Approx 28mm from center to center. ALSO the distance from the next set of risers behind the front risers needs to be at least 48mm center to center from the front risers. This is to accommodate the servo. Length of the Risers are 35mm.
Riser spacing Center to Center.
Width: 28mm
From second set: 48mm
Height: 35mm
YOU WILL NEED:
Micro Servo.
Rubber O-Rings X2; OD: 9mm, ID: 3.5mm Width: 2.5mm.
Foxeer Arrow FPV cam.
Ball Joint x2 (I use Associated because that what I have.
Ball Joint Cups x2 (again.. associate. Must cut the neck shorter on the cups. Completed length of ball joint assembly, 20mm from outside to outside.)
Ball joint rod (Yes associate... you know why.)
Link to suitable oring... https://www.ebay.com/p/Toogoor-50-Pcs-Flexible-Nitrile-Rubber-O-Rings-Washers-Grommets-4mm-X-9mm-X/710187450?iid=261969164068&chn=ps
Gimbal Assembly:

After printing, clean away any stringy's especially from out of the o-ring sockets. Remove the support material from the Frame where the servo goes.


Press insert the o-rings into the o-ring sockets located on the inside left and right walls of the gimbal frame.


use a small amount of white lithium grease and lightly grease the exposed surface of the oring.


Install ball joint into end of the arm of the Horn adapter. it should face out the opposite side of the recess that goes on the cam.


install horn adapter(the one you just put the ball joint on) on the left side of the camera. It will be a snug fit. Push it on, and screw it in with the screws that came with the camera. Make sure the arm is as far up as possible. the ball joint should be facing away from the cam its self. Snug it down so it does not move.

Install the other adapter that printed with the horn on the right side of the cam. Again it will be a snug fit. Snug it down with the screws that came with the cam.
It is important to use the supplied screws that came with the cam. It is the truss shape of the head that keeps the came in place against the o-rings. This is another reason this may not fit another cam.

lightly spread the Left and Right frame walls apart and slide the camera in seating the heads of the screws into the o-rings. It should fit snug enough to keep the camera in but still allow it to pivot.


Install the servo in the back of the gimbal frame with the servo spur towards the bottom. Use the supplied screws that came with the servo to mount it in place.


Take one of the supplied servo horns that came with the servo and widen the hole in the second to last hole from the end of the horn to accept a ball joint to be threaded in.


Thread ball joint into servo horn. Be careful not to break the servo horn.


Assemble linkage. Take the 2 ball joint cups and cut about 1/4 of an inch from the portion that the rod threads into. Take the threaded rod and cut it about 1/2" maybe less. The 2 ball cups should thread together all the way leaving no rod exposed. The length should be about 20mm from end to end. It just need to be close.


Carefully snap the ball joint cup of the linage onto the ball joint on the cam horn. and again with the other end of the linkage to the ball joint on the servo horn.


(Assuming you have set up the servo in your FC firmware and on your transmitter) Rotate the servo all the way clockwise. Move the cam all the way down. Then press the horn onto the servo spur. This should get you very close to where it should be.


adjust settings to accommodate full range of motion.

Install onto frame. Just slide it onto the front risers. Be aware of servo cable. Make sure it is routed the correct way.
***when installing the top plate, make sure to tighten the screws in the front to the risers that the gimbal frame slide over very snug. The frame is designed to be a hair higher than the risers to create a snug fit.
***VIDEO COMING OF ASSEMBLY AND INSTALL

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