Ford Flex Lane-Keeping Assist / Auto-Highbeam Adapter by XirallicBolts 3d model
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Ford Flex Lane-Keeping Assist / Auto-Highbeam Adapter by XirallicBolts

Ford Flex Lane-Keeping Assist / Auto-Highbeam Adapter by XirallicBolts

by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 2 years, 9 months ago
Adapter to fit Ford's twist-attach rearview mirrors to 2013-2019 Ford Flex to add Lane Departure Warning (LDW), Lane Keeping Assistance (LKA), and Automatic High-Beams (AHB). Capitalized italics indicate the name of a printed part ("Visual Guide", "Vinyl Template"). "Mirror Body" refers to the aluminum structure between the mirror and the camera.
Parts needed:
Rearview mirror from a 2013-2019 Ford Explorer, Ford Taurus, Lincoln MKS, or Lincoln MKT. Searching on eBay for MKS / MKT mirrors, selecting Used condition, usually brings up results for less than $100. Some sellers list AHB-only mirrors as LKA -- verify the mirror has a 1cm circular camera lens on the front or AHBC/LA in the plastic! Mirrors from the Fusion/Escape/etc look very similar but the body is longer and will not work with this design.
M4 heat-set insert nuts - print was designed around M4 x 12mm x 6mm
M4 screws, around 25mm-30mm long, qty 5
Aluminum sheet, 1/8" (3mm) thick.
6-32 x 3/4" screws, qty 3
JB Weld (or similar epoxy)
Oracal 651 Permanent Vinyl, Matte Black
Wire suitable for automotive use, 18awg or so.
Tactile pushbutton, momentary contact, 6mm or so length
Molex Connectors are a good idea to make connections. At least 4 pins are required. This isn't necessary if the mirror you purchase included a cut section of the wires from the headliner.
Tools Needed
Metalworking tools to cut/grind/drill aluminum sheet
Soldering supplies
Scalpel with extra blades
Laser level helps but is not required
Alternative method being researched: With access to a CNC, it may be possible to form the entire adapter out of aluminum rather than cutting/grinding the aluminum sheet.
It may also be possible to have an online service (such as OSH Cut) cut the aluminum design as well.
T10 / T15 / T20 driver, whatever size the camera is held on with.
FORscan USB adapter cable. OBDLink EX is best but the $15 generics will work as well.
Printed Parts
Metal Template -- Used as a guide for cutting the aluminum sheet.
Vinyl Template -- Used as a guide for aligning the main adapter, as well as trimming the vinyl. Hole in the middle is for the factory mirror mount.
Windshield Adapter -- The main body for adapting the mirror's position/angle. 6+ walls, 50%+ infill, supports as needed. This needs to be very strong and resistant to deformation in direct sunlight.
Camera Spacer -- Used to support Visual Guide and move the camera closer to the windshield. 5+ walls, 50%+ infill, with supports.
Visual Guide -- This will be visible through the windshield. 3+ walls, 20% infill, with supports. Orient with the 'camera' looking upwards (standing on legs), with raft. For better results, print with Cura 'Fuzzy Skin' (TODO: Get settings off main computer)
Lower Cover -- Covers the whole assembly. 2 walls, 20% infill, with supports. For best results, print with same Fuzzy Skin settings as above and orient part so the part closest to the mirror is facing down (90% from how it will install, pointing up).
Upper Cover -- Same as Lower Cover. Print with a raft.
Locking Tab -- Used to keep the mirror from rotating back out. 2+ walls, 20% infill.
Post-Processing
Both Windshield Adapter and Camera Spacer require the heat-set threads pushed in using a soldering iron. Heat-set in the Camera Spacer, plus fuzzy skin on Visual GuideApply some form of tape (such as black Electrical tape or microfiber wire tape) to the edges of Visual Guide that will be touching the glass, to avoid scratching the vinyl.
Metalworking
Using Metal Template, cut a piece of 6061 aluminum, 1/8" (3mm) thick, to match the template. Drill and grind as needed.
Attach the finished piece to Windshield Adapter using screws of an appropriate length through the heat-set threads.
Test the difficulty of attaching the mirror to this part. You don't want it loose, but also not so tight that you break it off the windshield.Photo of completed part, and as attached to mirror
Prep the mirror - Wiring
The mirror will require a connection to +12v power, ground, and HS-CAN.
On most mirrors, Pin 1 (Violet/Brown) is +12v, Pin 8 (Black) is Ground, Pin 14 (White/Blue) is HS-CAN+, Pin 15 (White) is HS-CAN-, and Pin 10 (Green/Orange) is the Enable/Disable switch.
On my mirror, I carefully removed the plastic trim ring around the glass, removed the internals, and drilled a small hole in the top of the mirror. I soldered one side of the tactile switch to Green/Orange and the other to Black. Then, glued the switch to that hole.
Solder up the molex connector if necessary, giving yourself plenty of wire to wherever you plan on getting power and HS-CAN connection.
Prep the mirror - printed parts
Be careful not to damage the fragile ribbon cable!
Unscrew the camera on the front of the mirror.
Carefully insert the Camera Spacer between the camera and housing.
Screw the camera back in, using longer 6-32 screws. Ensure the camera is flush against the print so alignment wasn't affected. Break off alignment tabs on the print if needed.
Temporarily attach the Visual Guide to the Camera Spacer using the heat-set threads on the bottom. Check that the camera looks centered in the print, modify Visual Guide as needed.
Remove Visual Guide. We'll reinstall it later.
Prep the windshield
Remove your existing rearview mirror. The metal mounting tab can stay on the glass. See my other designs for a tool that may help.
Remove the rain sensor cover, if equipped. There's no clips; pulls straight off.
Thoroughly clean the windshield inside using isopropyl and a nonwoven wipe -- the goal is to have zero dust on the glass when applying vinyl.
Cut two pieces of vinyl using Vinyl Template as a rough guide -- the seam will be at the top of the existing metal tab. Make these pieces 2-3" larger than needed so your fingerprints will be on the part getting trimmed off. Do not cut the trapezoid out.
In as clean of an environment as possible, apply the upper vinyl to the inside of the windshield, followed by the lower vinyl. Start from the top and slowly work your way down, running your finger back and forth to apply as evenly as possible. Do everything within your power to avoid getting dust or bubbles in the portions that won't be trimmed. Use transfer paper if necessary. The vinyl will look uneven from the outside for the first couple hours. As long as there's no dust or bubbles, it should even out.
Once you're satisfied with the vinyl application, tape Vinyl Template to the windshield. As best as possible, use the ceramic dots embedded on the glass to help align Vinyl Template vertically. A high powered flashlight helps. Use as much tape as necessary to keep this piece in place.
Mirror Installation
Cover the dashboard with an old towel in case of drips.
Mix and apply JB Weld epoxy to the assembled Windshield Adapter. Glue this to the windshield, using the Vinyl Template to align it vertically. Hold it in place for at least 5 minutes, then use more tape to hold it overnight.
Use a scalpel to carefully trim the vinyl. Try to stay consistent to avoid misaligned edges. Trim both the trapezoid and outer edge of the template. I trimmed the trapezoid, then applied tape inside the trapezoid so I could remove the tape on the outside without moving the template.If something goes wrong, remove the lower of the two vinyl pieces you applied to the windshield. Replace with a new piece and trim again.Remove Vinyl Template once all cuts are completed. Remove unneeded vinyl from the windshield.
After the Windshield Adapter has fully cured, carefully twist your new rearview mirror onto it, holding the base for stability.Check that your camera is centered in the trapezoid window you cut into the vinyl.
If you're satisfied with alignment, insert the Locking Tab on the passenger side, slid down into the body of the mirror.
Ideally, the mirror should not be able to rotate in either direction and the 'tower' on Windshield Adapter should line up with a visible casting seam in the mirror body. If you glued the Windshield Adapter on crooked, you may need to adjust the aluminum piece or apply tape to the Locking Tab.
With the camera lens centered in the trapezoid, attach Visual Guide again.
Attach the Lower Cover. It should try to clip onto the mirror and squeezes against Camera Spacer.
Check the Lower Cover alignment relative to the vinyl. The vinyl should be relatively even all the way around, extending ~3mm past the Lower Cover in each direction.The gap between the Lower Cover and glass is intentional, to help prevent fogging.
Attach the Upper Cover to the Lower Cover.
Reinstall the rain sensor cover, if equipped.
If you need to remove the Lower Cover, remove the rain sensor cover and Upper Cover. Hold the mirror body as you spread the Lower Cover off the clips on one side, then the other.
Installed Mirror Wiring
Provide the mirror with 12v Ignition (Switched) power and HS-CAN connection. I used an APIM extension cable behind the radio but these are harder to find in 2021. HS-CAN can be connected to the OBDII port, an Add-a-Fuse can be used for 12v ignition power.
FORscan AsBuilt Changes
You should be familiar with Forscan; I'm not responsible if something goes wrong. Always make a backup of any modules you change. Settings listed belower were relavent to my 2016 Flex 303A (equipped with Adaptive Cruise Control), your needed values may be different.
When connecting for the first time, Forscan will ask if it's a Flex or MKT. You must select MKT -- it will not search for IPMA if you select Flex. If you have a previous saved profile, do not load it, as the saved profile won't have IPMA.IPC
720-01-02 xxxx 6Fxx xx (was 6E) - Enables Auto-Highbeam (?)
720-01-03 xxxx 54xx (was 50) - Enables Lane-Keeping (?)PSCM
730-02-01 xxxx x1xx xxxx (was 0) - Enables Lane-KeepingIPMA
706-01-01 8x00 xxxx xxxx - Driver Assist Enable, Physical lanekeeping switch, No Windshield Heater
706-04-01 C2xx xx8x xx - Enable systems, high sensitivity. The 8 switches to 0 when the lanekeeping button is pressed.
Once everything is ready, find a nice straight road with clear lane markings.
Begin the IPMA Lane Camera calibration procedure in Forscan. Follow the prompts and at 30%, a large dialog will appear on-screen with instructions.
Do not dismiss this dialog. Continue driving in a steady manner, keeping your vehicle centered in the lane, for 10 minutes.
After a few miles you should get lane markings on your left instrument cluster.

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