Folger Tech (Knock-Off) E3D V6 - Bowden to DIRECT Conversion Kit by Zurkeyon

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Note: This is a Remix of a Remix of a Remix with a few Parts of my own thrown in there. Most of these parts are not my own, I am just redesigning them and recombining them to meet my needs. Much of this design is based off of the design found below: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:147705
(Other Idler Bearing sizes and types Can be found here as well)
FOLGER TECH BOWDEN TO DIRECT DRIVE CONVERSION KIT - With Full PTFE Liner and INSERT!
This Kit Allows you to take the Folger Tech 1.75MM E3D V6
(Knock Off with 25 MM Cooling Fin Diameter)
And Convert it to a Direct Drive Capable of Lower Temp Flexible Filaments
(Under 220 Deg)https://folgertech.com/collections/hot-ends/products/bowden-all-metal-hotend-for-abs-for-e3d-or-j-head-type-filament-extruder-1-75mm-1
Thus, allowing you to take an UNDER 15$ hot end, and get BOTH direct drive and bowden Mounts/Extruders for it, with a universal MK8 Gear, and Choice of 30MM or 40MM Dual Part Cooling Fans!
BOWDEN VERSION = http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1689850
This also means that you DO NOT have to change your eSteps Per MM, when swapping from Bowden to Direct.
Both Units Were Made to fit together with the LEAST amount of Hardware.
If you have M3/4 Hardware, General Small Self Tapping Screws (For Fans), and Either a 608 or 624ZZ Bearing, You should have everything you need to make these.
Instructions:
Print at 100% for BEST results.
Take the Stainless Steel Heat Break OUT of the E3D and replace it with a PTFE lined Heat Break. (Unless printing Materials at Greater than 220c, then swap BACK to the SS Heat Break. as the PTFE will Melt and Cause Toxic Fumes. This setup is for PLA, Low Temp Flexibles, and Low Temp ABS. But it Can Print Others... Just change setup.)
Print out the Extruder Base, Insert, Idler, and Clamp. (And Fans/Mount if Needed)
CLEAN the Filament Path of Both the Extruder Base, AND the Insert with a 5/32 Drill Bit until PTFE tube can be fed into it. Work it SLOW and test it, rinse and repeat. You want SOME tension as the PTFE tube is inserted, but you will be inserting it DEEP into the top of the E3D so it must be just clean enough to get it worked all the way to the bottom.
Take the Insert and Clean it up GOOD, making sure it threads EASILY, almost loose, into the top of the Folger Tech E3D.
Gently thread it down until it stops. Leaving about 1.5MM Sticking out of the top of the E3D.
Check the Fitment of the E3D into the Extruder Base. Press it in with a C-Clamp and Cardboard if needed to seat it ALL THE WAY in.
Take a section of 4MM OD / 2MM ID PTFE tubing, about 5-6 inches long, and Sharpen one end with a Pencil Sharpener, until it has a cone shape. This will allow it to seat down into the inlet of the E3D without being able to move around. The Insert also makes certain it is perfectly lined up with the hole at the top of the E3Ds inlet.
Start from the Top of the Extruder Base, and push the PTFE all the way through until it bottoms out, hopefully at the Base of the Inlet on Your E3D, and through the Insert. Making sure not to pinch it or crush it, as this will make the filament drag on the inner walls.
Cut the PTFE Tubing to match the curves at the Bottom of the Extruder Base. Keep the leftover Section Aside for use on the Top portion of the Extruder Base.
Assemble the unit as pictured, and Check that the Bearing and Gear DO NOT hit the PTFE Tubing. If they do, use an Exacto to trim it, until they do not, But TRY to keep the " ^ " Bevel.
You may need to Trim the Ends out of the Idler, and Run the Drill But Through it as well to make a U Shaped section for the PTFE tube to seat into when the Idler is closed and Latched to the Spring. Rather than a closed loop.
" v " Bevel the Edge of the PTFE Tube that Remains to Match the Gear and Bearing Curves. Now insert about 1-2" of this trimmed PTFE into the TOP of the Extruder Base. This is the Filament inlet.
Secure the Idler with a Spring and M4 20-25MM Bolt and Retaining Nut. Increase the tension until you feel it gripping tightly and can push filament in and out, at decent force and speed, without the gear slipping. Each stroke Carries the motor with it and forces it to turn with ZERO slipping. if its cutting a groove into the filament, that is OK, as long as it is not so tight that it flattens out the filament. As this will cause jams for sure.
That is it, you are done!
Re-Calibrate your Z EndStop, and Level Your Bed, Load Filament of your choice, and You are Off to the Races.
I have NOT fully tested this with the Flexibles, but there is no reason why it should not work. There are NO kink-spots or bind points left for the filament to go into. Its a Straight shot all the Way down, with a PTFE guide top and bottom with ZERO gap.
So now, Go Enjoy Your MULTIPURPOSE, Sub 15$ E3D Hot End!
Feel Free to Hit me up with any Questions.