Thingiverse
FlyingBear Ghost 4S Dual Extruder
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 2 months ago
Working in Progress !!! Feel free to help if you want
FlyingBear Ghost 4S Dual Extruder DIY Instructions :
This is not an official trademark guide, everything you do is at you own risks. You may understand what you are doing.
The mainboard is a FlyingBear version of the Makerbase "MKS Robin Nano" (same hardware and pinout)
You can find a lot of informations on their GitHub page.
I'm working on : 1. The 3D model of print head, 2. BLTouch leveling implement, 3. A prettier interface, 4. Wifi function (unstable for now)
Read the "HowToDo.txt" and "HowToWire.jpg" first
You will need some spare cables and parts before starting :
A 3d printed in ABS or PETG dual hotend PrintHead.
You can design yourself and share ! Print it before starting !
1x "2-pin JST male-male" 20cm cable.
1x "2-pin JST male-female" 150cm cable. (for the printing cooling fan)
1x "4-pin JST male to 6-pin stepper motor plug" 50 cm.
(plug depends of your motor, lenght depends of where you mount the second extruder, generaly included with motor)
You can buy only the plugs and made your cables by wire soldering. /!\ Respect standard polarities.
1x Stepper Driver (you can either buy only one stock A4988, 2x TMC 2208 to upgrade X and Y axis, or 5x 2208 for all axis "silent")
1x Motor and extruder.
1x Filament end sensor for the second extruder (if wanted, only take it from Aliexpress FB store)
1x HotEnd,of course (I pick up the same one that is on the printer from Aliexpress FB store)
1x NTC 100k temp sensor with 1m cable
1x Teflon tube for 1.75mm filament
Some zip ties for cable management
Power off and unplug the printer.
/!\ Do NEVER repower ON until complete all steps
You may break your mainboard if you change cables positions and start the machine with the stock firmware
I did it and had to replace some CMS components on mainboard, I can tell its not a pleasure ;)
Plug cables as showed on the "HowToWire.jpg" file :
Don't try to invert cables, it may cause short circuits !
The only things you can modify is to not use the "Base PCB" changes and wire things directly to the mainboard.
a. Connect permanent +24V plug from mainboard to the "yellow" top right of "Base PCB" plug with the included green cable.
It will turn on the print head and mainboard cooling fans when printer is on.
b. Connect the second Heater wire from mainboard to "green" top right of "Base PCB" plug with the included yellow cable.
For being able to plug the second hotend heater on the "Print Head PCB".
c. Connect the second Temp sensor plug from mainboard to the unused 2-pin of top "Base PCB" plug with the 20cm new cable.
Connect the second Temp sensor to the unused 2-pin of the printer side of "Base PCB" (Where the big cables are plugged).
d. Connect the long 150cm cable to the right side of mainboard "green" fan plug and the fan to the extender.
(Thats the printing cooling fan, you can upgrade it with one or two 24V 4020 turbo fans, or whatever you want, or not)
Put the Fan extender and the Temp sensor cables into the big black sleeve.
e. Connect the second Filament sensor to the just above "yellow" plug on mainboard left side.
f. Mount your missing driver on the bottom of mainboard (or upgrade with new ones)
You can find some well instructions on how to adjust them on the internet.
g. Assemble and mount your second extruder and motor, plug the motor to the bottom-left side unused "Extruder 2" plug of mainboard.
h. Replace the stock print head with the new dualhead printed. Assemble everything you need
i. Connect the second hotend heater to the "red" plug of "Print head PCB".
j. Do not touch other cables they are well placed where they are :)
Verify everything is plugged at the right place two or three times to be 100% sure
Firmware upgrade time !
a. Take a MicroSD card and format it in FAT32 (That will erase all on it)
b. Extract the archive and copy all the files from the archive on it.
c. If you got the stock A4988 drivers skip this step.
If you got upgraded X and Y axis TMC 2208 stepper drivers :
Remove "robin_nano35_cfg.txt" and "robin_nano35_cfgALL.txt".
Rename the "robin_nano35_cfgXY.txt" to "robin_nano35_cfg.txt"
If you got upgraded by all five axis TMC 2208 stepper drivers :
Remove "robin_nano35_cfg.txt" and "robin_nano35_cfgXY.txt".
Rename the "robin_nano35_cfgALL.txt" to "robin_nano35_cfg.txt"
d. Put the card in the printer port.
e. Plug in the printer and power it on !
f. The screen should display the firmware upgrading progression, if not unplug immediately and verify the card files
g. When update is finished move the print head and bed to the center of axis and verify it moves in the right directions
In "Tools" menu and "Move". If not go back to step c,rebuilt the SD card and edit the "***cfg.txt" file :
Example if X inverted : at line 155 you will find ">INVERT_X_DIR 0" and modify to ">INVERT_X_DIR 1" .
EVERYTHING IS DONE ! ENJOY !
If you want to downgrade to single extruder and stock firmware
a. Replug the cables as indicated in the original manual
b. Put the stock firmware on SD card and upload it
FlyingBear Ghost 4S Dual Extruder DIY Instructions :
This is not an official trademark guide, everything you do is at you own risks. You may understand what you are doing.
The mainboard is a FlyingBear version of the Makerbase "MKS Robin Nano" (same hardware and pinout)
You can find a lot of informations on their GitHub page.
I'm working on : 1. The 3D model of print head, 2. BLTouch leveling implement, 3. A prettier interface, 4. Wifi function (unstable for now)
Read the "HowToDo.txt" and "HowToWire.jpg" first
You will need some spare cables and parts before starting :
A 3d printed in ABS or PETG dual hotend PrintHead.
You can design yourself and share ! Print it before starting !
1x "2-pin JST male-male" 20cm cable.
1x "2-pin JST male-female" 150cm cable. (for the printing cooling fan)
1x "4-pin JST male to 6-pin stepper motor plug" 50 cm.
(plug depends of your motor, lenght depends of where you mount the second extruder, generaly included with motor)
You can buy only the plugs and made your cables by wire soldering. /!\ Respect standard polarities.
1x Stepper Driver (you can either buy only one stock A4988, 2x TMC 2208 to upgrade X and Y axis, or 5x 2208 for all axis "silent")
1x Motor and extruder.
1x Filament end sensor for the second extruder (if wanted, only take it from Aliexpress FB store)
1x HotEnd,of course (I pick up the same one that is on the printer from Aliexpress FB store)
1x NTC 100k temp sensor with 1m cable
1x Teflon tube for 1.75mm filament
Some zip ties for cable management
Power off and unplug the printer.
/!\ Do NEVER repower ON until complete all steps
You may break your mainboard if you change cables positions and start the machine with the stock firmware
I did it and had to replace some CMS components on mainboard, I can tell its not a pleasure ;)
Plug cables as showed on the "HowToWire.jpg" file :
Don't try to invert cables, it may cause short circuits !
The only things you can modify is to not use the "Base PCB" changes and wire things directly to the mainboard.
a. Connect permanent +24V plug from mainboard to the "yellow" top right of "Base PCB" plug with the included green cable.
It will turn on the print head and mainboard cooling fans when printer is on.
b. Connect the second Heater wire from mainboard to "green" top right of "Base PCB" plug with the included yellow cable.
For being able to plug the second hotend heater on the "Print Head PCB".
c. Connect the second Temp sensor plug from mainboard to the unused 2-pin of top "Base PCB" plug with the 20cm new cable.
Connect the second Temp sensor to the unused 2-pin of the printer side of "Base PCB" (Where the big cables are plugged).
d. Connect the long 150cm cable to the right side of mainboard "green" fan plug and the fan to the extender.
(Thats the printing cooling fan, you can upgrade it with one or two 24V 4020 turbo fans, or whatever you want, or not)
Put the Fan extender and the Temp sensor cables into the big black sleeve.
e. Connect the second Filament sensor to the just above "yellow" plug on mainboard left side.
f. Mount your missing driver on the bottom of mainboard (or upgrade with new ones)
You can find some well instructions on how to adjust them on the internet.
g. Assemble and mount your second extruder and motor, plug the motor to the bottom-left side unused "Extruder 2" plug of mainboard.
h. Replace the stock print head with the new dualhead printed. Assemble everything you need
i. Connect the second hotend heater to the "red" plug of "Print head PCB".
j. Do not touch other cables they are well placed where they are :)
Verify everything is plugged at the right place two or three times to be 100% sure
Firmware upgrade time !
a. Take a MicroSD card and format it in FAT32 (That will erase all on it)
b. Extract the archive and copy all the files from the archive on it.
c. If you got the stock A4988 drivers skip this step.
If you got upgraded X and Y axis TMC 2208 stepper drivers :
Remove "robin_nano35_cfg.txt" and "robin_nano35_cfgALL.txt".
Rename the "robin_nano35_cfgXY.txt" to "robin_nano35_cfg.txt"
If you got upgraded by all five axis TMC 2208 stepper drivers :
Remove "robin_nano35_cfg.txt" and "robin_nano35_cfgXY.txt".
Rename the "robin_nano35_cfgALL.txt" to "robin_nano35_cfg.txt"
d. Put the card in the printer port.
e. Plug in the printer and power it on !
f. The screen should display the firmware upgrading progression, if not unplug immediately and verify the card files
g. When update is finished move the print head and bed to the center of axis and verify it moves in the right directions
In "Tools" menu and "Move". If not go back to step c,rebuilt the SD card and edit the "***cfg.txt" file :
Example if X inverted : at line 155 you will find ">INVERT_X_DIR 0" and modify to ">INVERT_X_DIR 1" .
EVERYTHING IS DONE ! ENJOY !
If you want to downgrade to single extruder and stock firmware
a. Replug the cables as indicated in the original manual
b. Put the stock firmware on SD card and upload it
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