Thingiverse
Fixed Flying Tourbillon Model Mark 2
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 2 months ago
Update 11/19/19
I added 2 alternate pieces for the main spring assembly. The Main Spring Lug 2 Bolt Hole v2 and New Frame B Bolt Hole v5. Like the name implies, there is a hole in the Frame B shaft sized to be able to tap a 8-32 thread and an angled recess in the Main Spring Lug for a flat head 8-32 bolt 1/2" long. This keeps the spring in place so it doesn't fall out when handling. Just be sure not to overtighten and pull the shaft apart on the Frame B piece.
Update 11/18/19
Timed at 21min and 30 seconds maxing out the spring. That was with the .006 shim stock around 12' long.
Update 11/16/19
Success! For shim stock, go with .006 thick 1/2" wide. The brand I purchase was from Precisionbrand.com . It comes in a 25' roll. I used almost 12'. I did a test run and it ran for 10 minutes! This was not maxing out the spring so it will run longer. 80 clicks of the spring yielded a 10min 21sec run time.
Also, the new winder tool is up to the task. I use .125 diameter by 1/2" long dowel pins. I had purchase these from McMasterCarr.com, Item # 90145A471 18-8 stainless steel pins, $8.44 for 50pcs.
I also uploaded an alternate base replacement with a little more style. ;)
Update 11/15/19
First test went extremely well. With 15 clicks on the spring it ran for 1min 57sec. I think going with a thinner shim stock for the spring would be better as the .010 is pretty stiff and this model doesn't need much pressure to run. I initially went with 48" of shim stock. I think the same amount but thinner should work better and allow you to wind it further. I will test this as soon as I get different shim stock.
I've updated the New Base Replacement, New Main Spring, Main Spring Lug, and Winder tool/base. I found that the winder pins were extremely weak. I updated it with holes to press in 1/8" metal pins and updated the main spring with the appropriate hole size. I also changed the main spring lug to a better attachment slot similar to the main spring housing.
**Note: To bend the shim stock to a 90 deg without snapping it, heat the end to reduce the temper of the metal.
Original: 11/14/19
I attempted to print the original with very limited success. Parts that you wanted tight were extremely loose and others that you wanted loose or slip fit were tight. So in redrawing some of the parts, I decided to redesign a few things. Mainly the main spring and base.
This model uses 2 608 bearings for stability and a main spring made with .010 x .500 shim stock. I also designed a winding tool with the new spring housing being more enclosed.
**I've included a 608 bearing test print. Print this and fine tune the fit instead of having to reprint all the pieces and waste time. The fit should be snug but not press fit or sloppy. I used my Horizontal Expansion setting in Cura to fine tune this. Once you have your setting, print all the parts and they should fit pretty well.
The most difficult item to print is the base and supports. Be sure to have your support settings fine tuned to be able to remove it without damaging the spring locking fins. My settings from Cura were as listed below. To remove it, I first separated the support rim from the main spring bell housing. I then used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab between the center hole and in between the outer support and spring fins. It popped out in one piece. Make sure not to grab the spring fins and snap it off.
Placement : Touching Build Plate
Support Overhang Angle : 50
Pattern : Zig Zag
Density : 20%
Support Z Distance : 0.2
Support X/Y Distance : 1.0
I printed these items as a solid 100% infill. The rest were 20%
Main spring lug
Balancewheel
Balancewheel Spring
12T Sprocket Gear
60T ID Gear
This requires metal pins for the pivot points. The previous designs used 2mm diameter but I found those to be a little loose. I wound up using #43 dill bits (.089) and cut the shanks off to length. The you can still use the 2mm, it's up to you. The lengths I cut were 19mm (.760), 2 at 16.65mm (.655), and 1 at 6.55mm (.258). The last one for the pin to hold the fly wheel spring in place.
https://youtu.be/kZ-iBDkrOng
I added 2 alternate pieces for the main spring assembly. The Main Spring Lug 2 Bolt Hole v2 and New Frame B Bolt Hole v5. Like the name implies, there is a hole in the Frame B shaft sized to be able to tap a 8-32 thread and an angled recess in the Main Spring Lug for a flat head 8-32 bolt 1/2" long. This keeps the spring in place so it doesn't fall out when handling. Just be sure not to overtighten and pull the shaft apart on the Frame B piece.
Update 11/18/19
Timed at 21min and 30 seconds maxing out the spring. That was with the .006 shim stock around 12' long.
Update 11/16/19
Success! For shim stock, go with .006 thick 1/2" wide. The brand I purchase was from Precisionbrand.com . It comes in a 25' roll. I used almost 12'. I did a test run and it ran for 10 minutes! This was not maxing out the spring so it will run longer. 80 clicks of the spring yielded a 10min 21sec run time.
Also, the new winder tool is up to the task. I use .125 diameter by 1/2" long dowel pins. I had purchase these from McMasterCarr.com, Item # 90145A471 18-8 stainless steel pins, $8.44 for 50pcs.
I also uploaded an alternate base replacement with a little more style. ;)
Update 11/15/19
First test went extremely well. With 15 clicks on the spring it ran for 1min 57sec. I think going with a thinner shim stock for the spring would be better as the .010 is pretty stiff and this model doesn't need much pressure to run. I initially went with 48" of shim stock. I think the same amount but thinner should work better and allow you to wind it further. I will test this as soon as I get different shim stock.
I've updated the New Base Replacement, New Main Spring, Main Spring Lug, and Winder tool/base. I found that the winder pins were extremely weak. I updated it with holes to press in 1/8" metal pins and updated the main spring with the appropriate hole size. I also changed the main spring lug to a better attachment slot similar to the main spring housing.
**Note: To bend the shim stock to a 90 deg without snapping it, heat the end to reduce the temper of the metal.
Original: 11/14/19
I attempted to print the original with very limited success. Parts that you wanted tight were extremely loose and others that you wanted loose or slip fit were tight. So in redrawing some of the parts, I decided to redesign a few things. Mainly the main spring and base.
This model uses 2 608 bearings for stability and a main spring made with .010 x .500 shim stock. I also designed a winding tool with the new spring housing being more enclosed.
**I've included a 608 bearing test print. Print this and fine tune the fit instead of having to reprint all the pieces and waste time. The fit should be snug but not press fit or sloppy. I used my Horizontal Expansion setting in Cura to fine tune this. Once you have your setting, print all the parts and they should fit pretty well.
The most difficult item to print is the base and supports. Be sure to have your support settings fine tuned to be able to remove it without damaging the spring locking fins. My settings from Cura were as listed below. To remove it, I first separated the support rim from the main spring bell housing. I then used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab between the center hole and in between the outer support and spring fins. It popped out in one piece. Make sure not to grab the spring fins and snap it off.
Placement : Touching Build Plate
Support Overhang Angle : 50
Pattern : Zig Zag
Density : 20%
Support Z Distance : 0.2
Support X/Y Distance : 1.0
I printed these items as a solid 100% infill. The rest were 20%
Main spring lug
Balancewheel
Balancewheel Spring
12T Sprocket Gear
60T ID Gear
This requires metal pins for the pivot points. The previous designs used 2mm diameter but I found those to be a little loose. I wound up using #43 dill bits (.089) and cut the shanks off to length. The you can still use the 2mm, it's up to you. The lengths I cut were 19mm (.760), 2 at 16.65mm (.655), and 1 at 6.55mm (.258). The last one for the pin to hold the fly wheel spring in place.
https://youtu.be/kZ-iBDkrOng
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